You are an anomaly David. 
Bolt on turbo kit (21 Viewers)
- Thread starter scottryana
- Start date
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I guess I'm just a little more conservative than that. I'd like to know that the bottom end is in good shape and that I don't have some pending problem before I hit it with some boost. I'm at 170k. Those 20+ year old gaskets just seem like a weak link. I will say, that @scottryana's rod comparison photos in another thread have been enlightening. I didn't realize how stout the 1fz mechanicals really are.
jfz80
Cruisin’
FWIW the SC went on mine at 173k with nothing more than new HG and a water pump. 10 years later with 311k now without issue.
of course i only had 10 yr old gaskets then
of course i only had 10 yr old gaskets then
@ThomasMore66
A good place to start would be this document.
Then read it again. Then think about what the Toyota engineers of the 1FZ line have to say about the engine and its correlation to your own project end goals.
A good place to start would be this document.
Then read it again. Then think about what the Toyota engineers of the 1FZ line have to say about the engine and its correlation to your own project end goals.
At least my computer screen isn't visible from the door of my office as people walk by...
Two images to hopefully enlighten a bit more:
If this falls through let me know, and I can ship mine.
Got of pic of the crank bolted/mains? Curious to see how many bolts are in the main caps.
For a while I've associated it with the design of a diesel; seems that beefy. Neither one of mine use oil and I've read quite a few people seem to have an issue with that on here. Is that typically ring wear?
- Thread starter
- #690
2 Bolt mains, incredibly thick caps. but the bolt count means less in a I6 than a V8 since you have more main journals and less cylinders.
alia176
SILVER Star
now, where's that bottle of lotion......
I'm at 213K. My original plan was to do a preemptive HG but if I don't get around to doing the HG before the turbo is ready I'm just gonna run it. If it blows a gasket so be it, we will just all learn from it.
jjdeneen918
SILVER Star
The newest pictures of the brass fitting & oil line...
Is that a different approach to securing the oil return line?
I recall an earlier picture of a bracket utilizing 3 small screws securing the lower turbo oil return line.
Just curious.
And that brass fitting appears to have some type of sensor that attaches?
Is that a different approach to securing the oil return line?
I recall an earlier picture of a bracket utilizing 3 small screws securing the lower turbo oil return line.
Just curious.
And that brass fitting appears to have some type of sensor that attaches?
83520-60040
The newest picture is the oil feed line, which tees off of the oil pressure sender location (assuming that's the number referenced above). Totally bolt-on (screw on?) installation for the oil feed. The oil return was the one pictured earlier that mounts with three screws onto the upper pan.
- Thread starter
- #696
This is all correct.
Earlier you saw the bolt on oil return line. This is the oil feed line. Beno is 100% right as usual that is the part number for the OEM oil pressure sender. And if you look a few posts earlier in the thread you will see that the kit will come with a new OEM oil pressure sender since you are already there you might as well swap it out with a new one.... Just a little case of "While you are in there" with the turbo kit. lol.
Earlier you saw the bolt on oil return line. This is the oil feed line. Beno is 100% right as usual that is the part number for the OEM oil pressure sender. And if you look a few posts earlier in the thread you will see that the kit will come with a new OEM oil pressure sender since you are already there you might as well swap it out with a new one.... Just a little case of "While you are in there" with the turbo kit. lol.
- Thread starter
- #697
And here are your pics of the mains, stolen from Sbman's rebuild here on mud. You can see just how thick the caps are. To clarify why it is more important to have "4 bolt" or "6 bolt" main caps on a V8 is that the spacing between caps is further apart and you have two rods/cylinders between each of the journals with the I6 it is only a single rod/cylinder and like I said more journals and caps than the V8 (7 vs 5).
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They do look beefy. My first job when I was 14 was in an industrial motor repair shop. We repaired big diesel-converted-to-natgas engines that ran irrigation pumps. Reminds me of that design. Lots of hp, low revs.And here are your pics of the mains, stolen from Sbman's rebuild here on mud. You can see just how thick the caps are. To clarify why it is more important to have "4 bolt" or "6 bolt" main caps on a V8 is that the spacing between caps is further apart and you have two rods/cylinders between each of the journals with the I6 it is only a single rod/cylinder and like I said more journals and caps than the V8 (7 vs 5).
Sorry for the double post. Since iOS 11 came out I’ve had issues with forums not responding.
same! i'm in loma linda! when they're done let's race
