Bolt on turbo kit (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter scottryana
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I'm glad there is a replacement for that long rubber hose to the intake. Probably custom made? My preformed valve cover vent hose is also going I just noticed, looks like yours was replaced with generic hose. I wonder if I would be able to find a preformed match with the right amount of looking.
3" mandrel bent over the frame! Can't hurt except if you stay normally aspirated! Keep both cats and make or buy a heat shield like the 93-94 models had that goes over the frame!
- Thread starter
- #444
I have a stock sized exhaust on my truck. In an ideal world going to the freest flowing exhaust you could would benefit with spool, back pressure, etc. But again we are working within the restraints of the stock ECU. So before you go running 3" exhausts and straight through mufflers you have to be aware that spooling too soon is going to cause issue. For this reason I would stick with something close to the stock setup. If you want to run a standalone ECU, I agree, open everything up as much as possible!
This is new for me it would be great if you could post a picture of what yours looks like under the hood. The long hose was replaced by a local high end turbo shop with that said I feel they did a poor job as for fitment and it is first on my list to get cleaned up. Im looking forward to pulling the turbo 80 out soon as it has been in storage since being purchased last year. Im sure I will need to talk more to get a better turbo understanding in the near future.
Is it recommended one runs a AFR gauge with a turbo set up? If so I see advertisements for a narrow and a wide band AFR gauge can it be explained what one needs and the difference of the two?
- Thread starter
- #447
It is my opinion that anyone running any kind of FI should have 2 gauges. A boost gauge and an AFR gauge. Because one without the other is kind of useless. If you know your AFR but you don't know if you are under boost or not it is pointless.
As far as Narrow and Wideband, the narrow band literally only gives you an indication if you are at stoich or not, while a wide band will give you an accurate AFR reading from around 10:1 to 17-18:1. I would definitely go with a wideband, you will just need to have a bung welded into the downpipe for the sensor.
As far as Narrow and Wideband, the narrow band literally only gives you an indication if you are at stoich or not, while a wide band will give you an accurate AFR reading from around 10:1 to 17-18:1. I would definitely go with a wideband, you will just need to have a bung welded into the downpipe for the sensor.
Are wide band AFR gauges the same or is there detail one needs to look for, any recommendation? Is the bung location similar to EGT wanting it close to the where the turbo dumps as possible or just anywhere before the cat.
I googled 'stoich' and the definition uses too many multi syllables words.
Can you dumb down an explanation on the meaning?
FastCarGuy
SILVER Star
Are wide band AFR gauges the same or is there detail one needs to look for, any recommendation? Is the bung location similar to EGT wanting it close to the where the turbo dumps as possible or just anywhere before the cat.
I googled 'stoich' and the definition uses too many multi syllables words.
Phil:I am using both Amazon.com: AEM 30-4100 UEGO Controller Gauge: Automotive as well as https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UM9X2HW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 this way I always know both AFR as well as boost.
- Thread starter
- #451
Most AFR gauges are about the same, as with anything you kind of get what you pay for. Some of the popular ones are AEM, Innovate and Autometer. And yes you just need to have the bung welded in close to the turbo outlet prior to any catalytic converters as they will drop the AFR reading about a full point.
Stoich just means for a given fuel the best ratio so for gasoline it is 14.7:1, the signal basically just flips back and forth within a point or two of 14.7, but doesn't give you an accurate reading of where you are. Just that you are above or below stoich. A wideband will actually give you a true reading from 10:1 to 17-18:1. Narrow band are just old technology that were cheap before wideband became cheap enough for consumer use. 20 years ago wideband used to be $700-1000 and you would only find them at dyno shops.
Stoich just means for a given fuel the best ratio so for gasoline it is 14.7:1, the signal basically just flips back and forth within a point or two of 14.7, but doesn't give you an accurate reading of where you are. Just that you are above or below stoich. A wideband will actually give you a true reading from 10:1 to 17-18:1. Narrow band are just old technology that were cheap before wideband became cheap enough for consumer use. 20 years ago wideband used to be $700-1000 and you would only find them at dyno shops.
Are wide band AFR gauges the same or is there detail one needs to look for, any recommendation? Is the bung location similar to EGT wanting it close to the where the turbo dumps as possible or just anywhere before the cat.
I googled 'stoich' and the definition uses too many multi syllables words.
Are wide band AFR gauges the same or is there detail one needs to look for, any recommendation? Is the bung location similar to EGT wanting it close to the where the turbo dumps as possible or just anywhere before the cat.
I googled 'stoich' and the definition uses too many multi syllables words.
A stoichiometric mixture of air and fuel has exactly the amount of air needed to burn all the fuel with none left over. Too much air = lean mixture, not enough air = rich mixture.
Kinda like when you have a package of 8 hot dogs and a package of 8 hot dog buns. Simple enough for ya?
Definitely no stand alone ECU in the future for me. I'll probably just do the Magnaflow Y pipe, go over the frame, add an o2 bung after the cat, and try to reuse the factory muffler for now if it's still in decent enough shape.
Thanks,
Andrew
Just curious, wouldn't it be more accurate/better to have the MAF mounted close to the intake manifold/after the turbo and intercooler? It would be safe to assume that the air hitting the manifold would be warmer than before the turbo.
- Thread starter
- #455
MAF's don't do a great job metering air after it has been compressed. Not to mention as long as you don't push too much air and don't saturate the signal having it before the turbo is best.
- Thread starter
- #456
Just a little update things are still moving forward. Laser engraving has been done on the parts. It looks really badass but I can't really reveal it yet. It is too bad too because the parts look nice. So here are the only 2 pics that don't show the engraving. Haha. Anyways just wanted to let people know things move slowly but still move.
HDJdreams
SILVER Star
Thanks for the updates!
FastCarGuy
SILVER Star
Dying to see more
new 80 owner. looking forward to this!!!
