rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
I'm not sure about that big ass hole there though. I would weld a patch in there for sure.
Bodywork/patch panels - opinions on what’s salvageable
- Thread starter RWBeringer4x4
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I'm not sure about that big ass hole there though. I would weld a patch in there for sure.
- Thread starter
- #22
This is 100% the direction I'm leaning - with all four doors and the hard top pretty rotten, plus the infant, I strongly suspect any work on the back end of this tub is 4-5 years out at a minimum. My big concern right now is that Real Steel Cruisers is "for sale," so I'm debating if I should start stockpiling sheet metal. Seems like we lost a 40-series component vendor almost ever year
I was just looking at his work on his storefront. His sills are a work of art, and absolutely priced right. I wonder how badly shipping from Alberta would break the bank.
This is exactly the approach I'm planning on someday. I always set out to have this truck be a "rolling refurb" moreso than a concourse restoration. I'll probably wind up painting it in sections (top and doors, fenders and bib, etc.). Then, when everything else is done, I'll yank the tub and basically do just what you did. My problem is, with the absurd timeline of this build (mostly due to the snails pace I work at) I want to make sure the sheet metal is there when I need it!
This truck came with one of the "bolt-thru-floor" craptacular departure angle aux tanks that a PO had started installing, but never finished. The exhaust shop who routed my exhaust didn't listen to me, so now I couldn't remount it if I wanted to (and I don't) so this hole will definitely get patched.
As far as I can tell (I haven't put a ruler to it) I should just be able to cut a patch of flat 16 gauge and plug it, I believe that section of the panel is pretty flat. Naturally, if I also end up cutting out the rear corners to replace the sill, I'd be time/money ahead just buying a new quarter panel and using that. Hence the dilemma...
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
Shipping wasn't bad, I had mine shipped to MD.
There go all your plans!
Perfection is the enemy of good..... In hindsight, I could have saved most of our quarters and used a wheel well patch. It would have saved a huge headache with first shop too.
Looks like your tub is solid. It would probably be a good idea to get some hardtop parts and weatherstripping while they are still available(and while Avery is still kind if inexpensive).
Looks like your tub is solid. It would probably be a good idea to get some hardtop parts and weatherstripping while they are still available(and while Avery is still kind if inexpensive).
My advice on the sill... You really want to make sure that's not through rust. I would use a wire wheel on an angle grinder and hit every area on your rig where there is bubbling in the paint. You will learn how bad each spot is really quickly.
Not to freak you out, but on my rig, I was really surprised how the tiniest little paint bubble turned into an area I had to patch.
Be especially skeptical of any area where two panels overlap. The last place you'll see rust is on the outside in those cases.
As for welding and grinding... A few things i learned on my rig....
1) be super patient. Do not overheat your panels. Tack in one spot, move over 6 inches or more, tack another spot, and stop ever so often and hit everything with compressed air. It may feel like it's going slow, but if you badly warp a panel, it's going to cost you way more time. damhik.
1a) I hate grinding. And it's extremely tedious. You can easily overheat your panels while grinding. Move around a lot, never focus in one area. Again compressed air is your friend.
1b) they get some hate, but I much prefer flap wheels to grinding wheels. They work faster, throw off less dust, and leave a smoother surface. The downside is that they create lots of heat. Refer to 1a above.
1c) be super careful when you weld the patches on your front doors. I warped the bajesus out of mine and it ended up creating days of extra work for me. Be especially cautious on big flat areas of your panels. For the doors, I wish I had removed some of the material on the outer skin patch to make it into a horse shoe shape before welding them in (ie. Like the inner patches look). Welding closer to creases in the panels reduces the chance of warping since the panels are stronger in those areas.
2) know when to buy good used parts rather than sinking tons of time into parts that will be hard to fix. My rear quarters were a good example of this. I ended up spending lots of time patching, trying to fix prior body damage, only for it to not turn out right. In the end, I replaced them. Same with my front fenders. You can always sell your old panels... Somebody else might want to save them. I guess it depends on your personal time vs. money math.
3) wear a good P100 respirator while grinding. I didn't at first, and after lots of grinding, my lungs really felt irritated. I now find myself coughing a lot more than I used to. Kind of scary. The car shows on TV rarely show people wearing masks... Don't mimic them. The grinding wheels through off a lot on sandy dust... Silicosis isn't a joke.
Good luck!
Not to freak you out, but on my rig, I was really surprised how the tiniest little paint bubble turned into an area I had to patch.
Be especially skeptical of any area where two panels overlap. The last place you'll see rust is on the outside in those cases.
As for welding and grinding... A few things i learned on my rig....
1) be super patient. Do not overheat your panels. Tack in one spot, move over 6 inches or more, tack another spot, and stop ever so often and hit everything with compressed air. It may feel like it's going slow, but if you badly warp a panel, it's going to cost you way more time. damhik.
1a) I hate grinding. And it's extremely tedious. You can easily overheat your panels while grinding. Move around a lot, never focus in one area. Again compressed air is your friend.
1b) they get some hate, but I much prefer flap wheels to grinding wheels. They work faster, throw off less dust, and leave a smoother surface. The downside is that they create lots of heat. Refer to 1a above.
1c) be super careful when you weld the patches on your front doors. I warped the bajesus out of mine and it ended up creating days of extra work for me. Be especially cautious on big flat areas of your panels. For the doors, I wish I had removed some of the material on the outer skin patch to make it into a horse shoe shape before welding them in (ie. Like the inner patches look). Welding closer to creases in the panels reduces the chance of warping since the panels are stronger in those areas.
2) know when to buy good used parts rather than sinking tons of time into parts that will be hard to fix. My rear quarters were a good example of this. I ended up spending lots of time patching, trying to fix prior body damage, only for it to not turn out right. In the end, I replaced them. Same with my front fenders. You can always sell your old panels... Somebody else might want to save them. I guess it depends on your personal time vs. money math.
3) wear a good P100 respirator while grinding. I didn't at first, and after lots of grinding, my lungs really felt irritated. I now find myself coughing a lot more than I used to. Kind of scary. The car shows on TV rarely show people wearing masks... Don't mimic them. The grinding wheels through off a lot on sandy dust... Silicosis isn't a joke.
Good luck!
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
Reel Steel has been for sale for the last yr or 2, but I'm with you on the sense of urgency. I'm in the same boat, I'd like to get 1 of their drop down tailgates and lower frt door patches. If you do some searching you can find threads where folks have made their own rear sill, instead of purchasing one. granted they will probably be constructed differently, but the exterior will look about the same. You can always fix what you want now and paint, if you want. In the future you can revisit and repair if needed, and repaint that area after fixing it. You'll have the paint codes to match the color. As mentioned b4, your corners look fairly solid and will survive for yrs. You can wet sand w/some 800 grit and get rid of the rust stains. You can practice your body skills on the top. Personally I'd drive it, avoid salted roads, and do rust preventative measures and seal it up as best as you can.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
I personally would start right there, along with treating the rear sill and quarters. Maryland doesn't like Land Cruisers.
- Thread starter
- #28
Dude - this kid is bankrupting me on diapers alone! Daycare starts in 2 months, at which point I may very well be selling organs to keep my head above water. Important note - I'd sell a kidney on the black market before I sell my Land Cruiser.
As for quarter patches - I honestly don't hate the fender flares and go back and forth as to whether or not I'll bother fixing the wheel wells. There is a subconscious purist in me, and the realist in me always has to remind that purist that if I wanted a stock Land Cruiser, I started with the wrong truck.
That said - you really look at it - buying just the corner patches (probably necessary, eventually, due to dents and sill rust) and wheel well patches (if I want to make it "right" and ditch the flares) it's actually cheaper to just buy replacement quarter panels and cut out what I need (or just replace the whole panel with new).
Just a hint, Kirklands Best Light is $20 for 2 cases.....
- Thread starter
- #30
Good advice - thanks! I feel you on the respirator. I've done a lot of rust grinding already and learned quickly to avoid "black snot" syndrome.
With regard to used parts - that's really the question about my hard top. I really have no concept of how long all that rust will take to repair. As such, I have no idea whether it makes more sense to just pony up and buy some new sides, less rusty sides. I have yet to see a decent set of hard top sides near me for sale. Most folks want $500-$700 for sides that are in about the same shape as mine are.
- Thread starter
- #31
THEY DISCONTINUED KIRKLAND LIGHT AGAIN. THIS IS IN CAPITAL LETTERS BECAUSE IT IS AN EMERGENCY.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
The problem starts when you begin making things on your 40 perfect looking, before you know it you are wire wheeling rust from the nooks and crannies of your frame while the body is at the sandblaster!
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
A couple times a week I pass by a late model top, white, laying in someones back yard, no cruiser to be found anywhere. It looks to be in perfect condition! Just sitting in the backyard. They even move it side to side to mow around it!
- Thread starter
- #34
This is 100% something I would do...Luckily my father-in-law has restored a LOT of old cars and can usually talk me off the ledge. I'll tell him what I'm doing and he'll just chuckle. The chuckle tells me everything I need to know.
- Thread starter
- #35
In MT, or was this back in MD? I know they're out there, but it gets pretty pricey shipping oddly shaped, heavy things from AZ or CA.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
The inside of our 72's e brake looks fantastic. You'll have to trust me though.
You'll get used to the kid cost, we learned to shift things around and scale back the extras. It doesnt really get any cheaper as they get older and into sports and extra curriculars.
- Thread starter
- #38
I 100% blame @reddingcruiser for this. I'm glad this has become a running joke that is now haunting me across multiple posts!
I didnt catch the original joke. Its become a running joke surrounding our build between my dad and me.
- Thread starter
- #40
Ah, well at least I’m not the only one!
Builds - The Clustertruck Rides Again - Refurbishing a 1975 Chevota - Post #1288 is where I got yelled at for cutting corners
My sin was absolved on the following page.
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