BObed the 60 16in (1 Viewer)

[CruisinFJ60]

Ok so took apart the SM420 today, ok well maybe just the main shaft and top cover, anyhow. I am getting conflicting information...

this what I found on the net


"The last year of the SM420 (1967) had a backup light switch installed in the top cover to meet that year's federal mandates.

* 1947-1953:
1. No ribs on the case
2. Grooved worm on the input shaft instead of neoprene seal
3. Synchro rings all differ from each other. 1st-2nd synchro ring is bronze
4. Weep hole at 6 o'clock on the bearing retainer snout
5. Six digit casting number on the case, usually like "59xxxx" e.g., 591665.
* 1954-1963:
1. Same as previous but uses a neoprene input oil seal
2. No weep hole at 6 o'clock on the bearing retainer snout
* 1964-1967: Same as previous except
1. 1st-2nd synchro ring is aluminum and 3rd-4th synchro rings are identical to each other
2. Seven digit casting number usually like "37xxxxx", "38xxxxx" or "39xxxxx"
* 1968-1981: Military Con-Diesel version. Features the strongest case and optimized internals. Usually equipped with unique top cover, but can be converted to standard top-shift control."


ok now the issue is I have the grooved worm on the input shaft, 1st-2nd synchro ring is bronze, and weep hole at 6 o'clock on the bearing retainer snout. All this indicates a 47-53 transmission but I also have the 7 digit casting number (mine being 3837334) and on the letter and 4 digit date code mine is a letter and 3 digit...

So.... WTF?

Also the top shifter assembly where the shifting rod for 3&4 is at the cast is broken allowing the rod to move around and the detent springs fell out as well as the balls. So I am gonna need a top cover as well as a rebuild kit since it is apart I want to do it. Also the first gear has always had heavy resistance when shifting and upon disassembly I found that the first gear doesn't slide easily as it should on the shaft and was the cause of the resistance. Still dont know what is up there, but yea.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

Here is the trans

 

[CruisinFJ60]

Came up with a plan.
Got a line on a supposed to be good 420 that shifts well and also a lead on a top plate cover for $200. The idea is I can just swap the trans and keep the other and do a rebuild and then either use it in my other truck, keep as a spare, or sell after FULL rebuild. I am supposed to be picking up a SM465 bolted to a NP205 so I can decide what drive train setup I want to build next. after some research my options for the SM420s are limited but I have a decent set of options using the SM465.

If I can find a set of lowmax gears for the 205 I will build a 465, 203, 205 doubler, if not looking more towards a 465, 203, 300. then maybe I will do the 420, toybox, 3 speed case in my other cruiser.

Who knows!!

 

[CruisinFJ60]

Couple pics from Rock Trails of Tolar i downloaded from my fb.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

More. .

 

[CruisinFJ60]

Tolar TX

 

[CruisinFJ60]

Few from Clayton OK.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

Got this sweet adapter from a friend to adapt from the yota booster to my master cylinder from a 77 Corvette.

Also had to BUY the hose adapters that once upon a time CAME WITH the new master cylinder...

But they do make things much easier. Bolt to truck, add bleeders, add fluid and SLOWLY pump brake pedal

 

[CruisinFJ60]

After a while of searching through the bins at O'Reilly and trying a bunch of em. I finally came across some to adapt the master cylinder to what I wanted it to be. I ended up cutting off the yota metric male threads and sliding on some SAE threads then flaring the line back out. Only took 3 tried per line to double flare them right and or to stop forgetting stuff... i hate flaring brake lines.

Then drove it and learned the front circuit is for front brakes and I had the rears attached to it so it locked the rear down like nothing.

Then the last pic swapped em back and it went from never being able to lock em down to now locking down the fronts on asphalt!

May need to do some sort of proportioning valve or something still to improve rear braking ability, but it is better than it has been in well over a year and possibly better that it was when all yota still.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Know what the bore size of that mc is?

 

[CruisinFJ60]

Know what the bore size of that mc is?

Should be 1-1/8" bore. Mine is the upper one but both are for same model and make.

 

[Tapage]

kinda late but

http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new/detaproduct.php?id=216

http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new/detaproduct.php?id=233

 

[CruisinFJ60]

Never to late for good tech!

I would have happily paid $24 to not have to jack with those damn lines so much, but it is done now i guess.

Also the master cylinder I used did not require and extension as it is the "shallow" type where the rod sits vs the "deep" style like sky shows on their site.

All in all, the $ they are asking isn't terrible for all bolt in stuff. My way was cheaper, but came with more obstacles and annoyances.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

Well I haven't been doing much but some little odds and ends here and there. Replaced the front springs and got the clamps good and tight, after a few runs they started to spread and that wasn't good enough for me. So I banged em back together and welded a small "strap" to them to keep em closed and I also turned the springs around putting the military wrap end up front which added what looks to be about an inch of wheelbase by where the bump stops hit at now.

Then I re wired my headlamps and added a relay to take the strain off of the factory wiring harness since the HIDs prefer a STABLE 12+ volts.

When I did the front springs I replaced the u bolts and nuts again and then double nutted the u bolts. So far so good there.

Ordered a battery kill switch today and a new fuse block as I am planning on rewiring a bunch of the truck, I eventually would like to only having the basics of engine operation and my blower motor and stuff on the factory fuse block. This will enable me to cut out a large amount of unused factory wiring and help lessen any potential of electrical fires.

Last week I finally got tired of the winch not free spooling and took it apart. it got some moisture and a little dirt in there and corroded up. I cleaner and greased it and all is good again.

Today I decided to figure out how to wire up an in cab switch for the winch a Warn X8000i which has a 5 wire plug. After a TON of searching and reading and still a poor understanding I finally figured it out, it is actually stupid easy. The 5 wire has an intermittent ground as kinda like a double safety thing if the cord were to go to a dead short, once you let off it kills power and ground from the switch. Nothing wrong with that other than some additional wiring and the use of a DPDT on-off-on switch VS a SPDT on-off-on switch. I found by taking one of the solenoids and grounding a terminal as a constant I could wire it with a SPDT switch and only have to run 2 wires from the switch in the cab to the winch. AND my remote plug will still work just fine with factory remote. I dont see any real issue with doing this as that is how most winches are wired in the first place with a 3 wire plug.

I havent finished it as I wanted it to be a clean install, the goal today was to figure out how to do it. I will finish it up probably tomorrow and get some pics of some of this stuff.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

Ok so here is the winch info. This was done on my Warn X8000i winch that is a factory 5 wire controller.

What I did was basically wire it as one would wire a regular more traditional 3 wire winch controller.


This is what we started with



This is where i tapped into the "in" portion of the solenoids

Also if you notice the random black wire attached to the other solenoid to the left. That wire was run to a constant ground which allowed me to run a SPDT switch instead of a DPDT that would typically be needed for a 5 wire controller. In other words, this was a very crucial step. Also the green wire on the far left solenoid is where I picked up my power from. I did this so that I didnt have to find one in the cab and run it over. This made it real easy to just run the 3 wire whip and leave as much sheathed as possible.



This is the "out"



"In" pair



"Out" pair



I drilled a small hole in the side of it to run my wires. I used some 14/3 wire I picked up at my local hardware store. This is typically used for wiring things around your house, but works perfectly for this. All three wires are sheathed and wrapped together then sheathed again. I went with the rubber outer as it will remain more flexible in cold temps. I paid $0.89 per foot.



All wired up!



And back together.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

Cross post... http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/1177825-warn-x8000i-cab-wiring.html

 

[CruisinFJ60]

Update time.

bout a month and a half ago I went up to Clayton, OK. again for some wheeling. Had two knuckle studs sheer after just fixing them the week before. So I think I have a damaged knuckle and will be getting another, for the time, we welded the steering arm to the knuckle.

Then the next day getting ready to go hit the trails I split the transfer case 3/4 the way around in a stupid mud hole. probably the only mud in Clayton at that! lol oh well.

So I found what I thought and was told was a 3 speed case. Then after trying to install it found it wouldnt go in or together properly...

SO...

Went here https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-seri...-asked-questions-f-q-updated-01-apr-12-a.html

Which led me here https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/54270-best-3-speed-transfer-case.html

and ultimately here http://www.kinzers.com/don/landcruiser/tcase_tech/

I found out that the new case is a 78 4 speed case.

I then tore both cases all the way down and started swapping things between them so that it would all hopefully work together the way it should.

yesterday I worked on the truck from about 9am and had about a 2 hour break in there then started back on it and didnt finish and pick up all my tools till 1am this morning. but I not only got everything swapped but also got the case in the truck, drive lines bolted up, cross member in, and filled with gear lube.

 

[kling-on]

Any updates

 

[CruisinFJ60]

Couple

 

[kling-on]

Man I thought I'd see more tube work .... Nice flat belly though