Bluey the Cruiser (1 Viewer)
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- #22
Finally attempting to update this thread - turns out having 2 kids under 3, full time work, house renovation projects, and trying to restore a vintage car is a lot for me to handle.
It was clear for a while that Pearl's rust wasn't something feasible/economical to tackle. I somewhat knew this from the start, but as I got it to a reasonably reliable driver state, I never felt comfortable with the integrity of the rust enough to drive my wife and young kids any real distance or speed. I had looked in to possibly doing a frame swap, but without a lift or space to house a severed body/frame, this was ruled out. So I decided to hunt for a clean body and frame, mostly trying to find rollers to swap Pearl's healthy drivetrain in to.
After lots of near misses, in March I found a seller out in Western NC who had posted an 84 for sale, and reached out. The truck is originally from Oceanside, California, then owned by an older gentleman in Tennessee who did some restoration work such as replacing the roof skin, interior carpet with Noico insulation underneath, and some other minor things, before letting it go to the current owner who never found the time to complete some needed things. The truck had 174k miles and all stock under the hood except for aluminum radiator. Known issues were rust on the windshield corners, slipping clutch, and some oil leaks. I talked with the seller for a while but with a newborn at home, couldn't find the time to make the 3 hour drive to go see it, and the seller was asking quite a bit more than what I could swing or thought was accurate. As luck would have it, it remained available, and made the drive out in April to see it and landed on a price.
Pics from the seller's listing, my inspection, and the drive home. (No, not moving, but had to rent a tow rig and the box truck was the smallest U-Haul would let me do it with).
It was clear for a while that Pearl's rust wasn't something feasible/economical to tackle. I somewhat knew this from the start, but as I got it to a reasonably reliable driver state, I never felt comfortable with the integrity of the rust enough to drive my wife and young kids any real distance or speed. I had looked in to possibly doing a frame swap, but without a lift or space to house a severed body/frame, this was ruled out. So I decided to hunt for a clean body and frame, mostly trying to find rollers to swap Pearl's healthy drivetrain in to.
After lots of near misses, in March I found a seller out in Western NC who had posted an 84 for sale, and reached out. The truck is originally from Oceanside, California, then owned by an older gentleman in Tennessee who did some restoration work such as replacing the roof skin, interior carpet with Noico insulation underneath, and some other minor things, before letting it go to the current owner who never found the time to complete some needed things. The truck had 174k miles and all stock under the hood except for aluminum radiator. Known issues were rust on the windshield corners, slipping clutch, and some oil leaks. I talked with the seller for a while but with a newborn at home, couldn't find the time to make the 3 hour drive to go see it, and the seller was asking quite a bit more than what I could swing or thought was accurate. As luck would have it, it remained available, and made the drive out in April to see it and landed on a price.
Pics from the seller's listing, my inspection, and the drive home. (No, not moving, but had to rent a tow rig and the box truck was the smallest U-Haul would let me do it with).
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- #23
I then began with a game plan to combine the work and parts invested in Pearl with Bluey's body/chassis. 2F/H42/Split Case would stay, but axles (both rebuilt on Pearl), springs (OME Heavy vs stock and extended shackles), and most other new/replaced parts would be moving over. The seller also included lots of parts to be thrown in the mix.
The resulting process took around 5 months whenever I was open around family and work time to suffer with rusty parts in my hot driveway over summer. Definitely underestimated the process of 2x removals and 2x installs on parts on 40-year old vehicles, but we got there. A random assortment of pics to follow, including the full work checklist in its current state.
I put about 250 miles on Pearl with its new parts mix to make sure everything was as dialed as possible, like alignment, braking, cooling system, etc. before listing for sale, and off she went.
The resulting process took around 5 months whenever I was open around family and work time to suffer with rusty parts in my hot driveway over summer. Definitely underestimated the process of 2x removals and 2x installs on parts on 40-year old vehicles, but we got there. A random assortment of pics to follow, including the full work checklist in its current state.
I put about 250 miles on Pearl with its new parts mix to make sure everything was as dialed as possible, like alignment, braking, cooling system, etc. before listing for sale, and off she went.
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- #24
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- #25
Scored a deal on a new-style ARB bumper
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- #26
At this point there were two major items left to take care of, the windshield corner rust and the clutch job.
Once Pearl was gone, I started putting a lot more miles on Bluey and over time the clutch has slipped gradually less than the initial test drive. Not sure if using the truck more has removed some glazing/oil from the flywheel surface, but when warm and with the right footing, I can drive in stop and go with no slipping. Given this and prioritizing time/garage space, I decided to tackle windshield corner rust first and save the clutch job (parts for which included from seller, pending review) until Spring.
One of the previous owners had replaced the roof skin back in the 2015-2016 time frame, I assume for rain gutter rust. Although the truck is immaculate underneath and on 95% of the body, I assume its first life by the Pacific ocean created some corrosion. The roof remained in primer until I bought it, but was missing seam sealer around the spot welds in the gutter, and the corners started to rust at the braising seam at the a-pillar. Presumably this area was left bare and rusted away, or the final blending was never completed when the roof skin was replaced.
I gave it a DIY effort - pulled windshield, got patch corners from a donor truck and flux-core welded them in. Followed by bondo and skim coat. New Evercoat seam sealer around the gutters. Then I re-primed the roof and gave it a budget coat of gloss white, along with repainting the windshield frame and gutters in close-but-not-perfect Medium Blue from a can. Topped with 2K clear.
While some more skilled body folks may be cringing, I'm happy with the way it turned out and it fit my goal for the build of closing up potential leak points, and buying some additional time to abate rust spread. And importantly, on a budget. I was lucky to be in a spot where the inner structure almost entirely protected the headliner from welding spatter, so was able to leave it in. The internal areas all got healthy coatings of Ospho and weld-through primer to hopefully protect internals, attacked from above and below via the a-pillar.
Once Pearl was gone, I started putting a lot more miles on Bluey and over time the clutch has slipped gradually less than the initial test drive. Not sure if using the truck more has removed some glazing/oil from the flywheel surface, but when warm and with the right footing, I can drive in stop and go with no slipping. Given this and prioritizing time/garage space, I decided to tackle windshield corner rust first and save the clutch job (parts for which included from seller, pending review) until Spring.
One of the previous owners had replaced the roof skin back in the 2015-2016 time frame, I assume for rain gutter rust. Although the truck is immaculate underneath and on 95% of the body, I assume its first life by the Pacific ocean created some corrosion. The roof remained in primer until I bought it, but was missing seam sealer around the spot welds in the gutter, and the corners started to rust at the braising seam at the a-pillar. Presumably this area was left bare and rusted away, or the final blending was never completed when the roof skin was replaced.
I gave it a DIY effort - pulled windshield, got patch corners from a donor truck and flux-core welded them in. Followed by bondo and skim coat. New Evercoat seam sealer around the gutters. Then I re-primed the roof and gave it a budget coat of gloss white, along with repainting the windshield frame and gutters in close-but-not-perfect Medium Blue from a can. Topped with 2K clear.
While some more skilled body folks may be cringing, I'm happy with the way it turned out and it fit my goal for the build of closing up potential leak points, and buying some additional time to abate rust spread. And importantly, on a budget. I was lucky to be in a spot where the inner structure almost entirely protected the headliner from welding spatter, so was able to leave it in. The internal areas all got healthy coatings of Ospho and weld-through primer to hopefully protect internals, attacked from above and below via the a-pillar.
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- #27
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- #28
After a debacle with a local glass installer who broke the (aftermarket) windshield I attempted to re-use, another installer came and installed new Fuyao glass with the Precision non-chrome gasket.
I added some small details back like mudflaps, chrome gutter trim, Yakima bars from Pearl, and gave the original single-stage Medium Blue a compound and coating. Below is where we stand today, and officially dubbed after my son's favorite TV show.
I added some small details back like mudflaps, chrome gutter trim, Yakima bars from Pearl, and gave the original single-stage Medium Blue a compound and coating. Below is where we stand today, and officially dubbed after my son's favorite TV show.
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- #29
5-6 months go by in a flash before realizing the build thread could use an update!
Continuing to love putting Bluey to use around town, commuting, etc. Local ONSC event Carolina Relic Run is coming at the end of the month, and should get some trail work in soon.
T-case rebuild kit and new clutch remain on the shelf. The more I drive, the better it feels. Will eventually need to come out to reseal the t-case, but the bypass hose has helped and frequent heat cycles keep driveway spots at bay.
Small jobs in recent history:
Continuing to love putting Bluey to use around town, commuting, etc. Local ONSC event Carolina Relic Run is coming at the end of the month, and should get some trail work in soon.
T-case rebuild kit and new clutch remain on the shelf. The more I drive, the better it feels. Will eventually need to come out to reseal the t-case, but the bypass hose has helped and frequent heat cycles keep driveway spots at bay.
Small jobs in recent history:
- Horn pins
- Turn signal install on the ARB
- $40 Amazon radio install (BT streaming to ditch the FM transmitter)
- @CruiserHeadParts USB charger install
- Replaced front seat belt latches with non-cracked surrounds
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I'll be at RR, look forward to seeing the progress in-person. Nothing done to Pearl other than to drive it. I'll likely trailer it down and see what happens out on the trails; I suspect that will highlight some deficiencies to address 
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- #31
It's looking like only a partial-day for me on Friday given family stuff going on that weekend, but hope to see you there!I'll be at RR, look forward to seeing the progress in-person. Nothing done to Pearl other than to drive it. I'll likely trailer it down and see what happens out on the trails; I suspect that will highlight some deficiencies to address
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- #32
I recently had an unfortunate debacle with an LC-specific fab shop on a rear tire swingout, but after settling it all, was left with a pile of parts and some loose ideas on how to get it installed and finished.
Game plan was to fit an install and address the below:
Now attempting version 2.0 with new M12 bolts with nylon lock nuts, spring and fender washers with more torque. I also added a 150lb strut from 4x4 labs, eyeballing their swingout design to determine endpoint mounting locations, and now have assisted open with limit, as well as compression when closed to help keep in place. Will add some more miles and hopefully problem solved - not wanting another close call!
Final item is to cut up a plastic bumper end cap to hopefully complete this project.
Game plan was to fit an install and address the below:
- Fabricate a new bumper latching plate that was missing from my shipment
- Paint/powdercoat the bare steel
- Rust abate/coat the surface rust in rear frame/bumper area
- Align swingout mounting base that didn't align with stock bumper holes as advertised
- Holes drilled for lug nut studs were too big for M12 (stock for FJ60)
- Find new lower seal for swing pin that was damaged in shipping
- Address some kind of limit stop on the swingout (none provided/designed) to be able to open on uneven ground
- Address mounting solution for license plate now blocked by spare tire
- Wire brushed and treated the rear frame area with Ospho
- Enlarged and ovaled some mounting holes as necessary to align mounting base with factory bumper
- Built new latching plate out of 1/4" steel plate that used the factory center bumper holes
- Tack welded the lug studs in to the wheel mounting plate to keep them in place
- Wire brushed, epoxy painted, and clear coated the bare steel parts
- Picked up a used 33x10.50 (it's old, I know) and mounted to my stock 5th wheel.
- Greased the pin, bearings, and set cotter pin
- Broke out the calipers to measure and order a replacement lower seal (generic SKF part)
- Drilled, tapped holes for mounting license plate on lower arm
Now attempting version 2.0 with new M12 bolts with nylon lock nuts, spring and fender washers with more torque. I also added a 150lb strut from 4x4 labs, eyeballing their swingout design to determine endpoint mounting locations, and now have assisted open with limit, as well as compression when closed to help keep in place. Will add some more miles and hopefully problem solved - not wanting another close call!
Final item is to cut up a plastic bumper end cap to hopefully complete this project.
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- Thread starter
- #33
6-month update:
Finished up the rear swingout, been issue-free since:
Brought Bluey to meet some friends at ONSC's Relic Run:
Clutch slave leak finally pushed me to tackle clutch, RMS, and t-case rebuild, has been back together for 500+ miles with no leaks or grinds. Calling that a win!
Bought a 2011, bought a 2016, sold the 2011:
Finished up the rear swingout, been issue-free since:
Brought Bluey to meet some friends at ONSC's Relic Run:
Clutch slave leak finally pushed me to tackle clutch, RMS, and t-case rebuild, has been back together for 500+ miles with no leaks or grinds. Calling that a win!
Bought a 2011, bought a 2016, sold the 2011:
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- #34
Added some budget spot lights and cleaned up wiring under the hood:
And moved to some new shoes: 16" Tacoma steelies, painted white to match roof and stripes, on 255/85/16 Falken AT4's:
And moved to some new shoes: 16" Tacoma steelies, painted white to match roof and stripes, on 255/85/16 Falken AT4's:
Mdej3
SILVER Star
Great rig. Mind me asking what USB charger you have installed in dash ? Thank you.
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- #36
It's from cruiserhead.com, he's a member here (@ChaserFJ60 ) but currently has his shop closed for a bit. I'm sure can buy in the near future.
Cruiser Head - Temporarily Closed - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/cruiser-head-temporarily-closed.1234894/page-41
Cruiser Head - Temporarily Closed - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/cruiser-head-temporarily-closed.1234894/page-41
