Blue Sea 7610 alternative? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Apr 9, 2009
Threads
144
Messages
806
Location
Mason, Texas
Website
www.irontonforge.com
I'm not having much luck with the longevity of the Blue Sea 7610. I'm not going to bash them... but would like to know what options you guys prefer. I really want to go with a different relay for my dual batteries. Thanks! :popcorn:

thumbnail_IMG_2210.jpg
 
Are you putting large loads through it? I have had a Blue Sea 7622 (500amp continuous rated) installed for over 5 years without any issues whatsoever.
 
Are you putting large loads through it? I have had a Blue Sea 7622 (500amp continuous rated) installed for over 5 years without any issues whatsoever.
No sir, no large loads... just usb chargers, light bars, etc. The first unit didn't work at all. Blue Sea replaced immediately. The current unit is 1 1/2 old. No longer will charge house battery. Ground and connections are clean... just no longer charges.

I'll check out the 7622. Thanks!
 
Same here. Mine was installed for 4 years or more with zero issues. Unless you are pulling super high current (short circiut) then they are reliable.
Before you fork out cash on another one you might want to look into a DC/DC solution like the Radarc BCDC1220. Its a little bit more spendy but opens up the opportunity to charge AGM and Lithium batteries. Also no need for AWG 0 cables running between your batteries.
 
Same here. Mine was installed for 4 years or more with zero issues. Unless you are pulling super high current (short circiut) then they are reliable.
Before you fork out cash on another one you might want to look into a DC/DC solution like the Radarc BCDC1220. Its a little bit more spendy but opens up the opportunity to charge AGM and Lithium batteries. Also no need for AWG 0 cables running between your batteries.
Wow! The Radarc BCDC1220 is impressive. Thanks for sharing!

 
This was the solution i was leaning towards when i realized the stock alternator was useless that charging an AGM battery
 
Same here. Mine was installed for 4 years or more with zero issues. Unless you are pulling super high current (short circiut) then they are reliable.
Before you fork out cash on another one you might want to look into a DC/DC solution like the Radarc BCDC1220. Its a little bit more spendy but opens up the opportunity to charge AGM and Lithium batteries. Also no need for AWG 0 cables running between your batteries.
Does the Redarc unit do anything a Renogy doesn't for less than half the price? 12V 20A DC to DC On-Board Battery Charger - https://ca.renogy.com/12v-20a-dc-to-dc-on-board-battery-charger/

Downside to both is you can't self-jump, but the smaller Blue Sea ACR can't do that either.
 
I have had years of really stable good luck with both the 7610 and 7622. I am wondering if it symptomatic of your wiring lengths, gauge, etc. I always put the ACR (either one) as close to the battery as possible. Shorter wire = less voltage loss, and that in turn allows the ACR to combine and separate easier and more effectively as its sensing really accurate voltage. With the ACR near the battery, you can run across the core support with the cable to the other battery and total cable length would easily be less than what you have with the ACR installed on the cowl. This is what I would be revisiting. I would double check the ground too. It wont work without it grounded.
 
Does the Redarc unit do anything a Renogy doesn't for less than half the price? 12V 20A DC to DC On-Board Battery Charger - https://ca.renogy.com/12v-20a-dc-to-dc-on-board-battery-charger/

Downside to both is you can't self-jump, but the smaller Blue Sea ACR can't do that either.
Redarc does have higher amperage options (25 or 40), it will charge Lithium, and it has a built in Solar MPPT controller.

I just bit the bullet on a BCDC40. Made in Australia and not where everything else is made. Support has been great answering my questions so far.

They have a wiring diagram on their support FAQs page that shows how to set it up for self jumps.
 
I run a Redarc SBI12 on my rig:
I've used it to self-jump from the secondary battery, and I have mine wired up with an indicator and manual link button in the cabin. It's a good little unit.
 
Redarc does have higher amperage options (25 or 40), it will charge Lithium, and it has a built in Solar MPPT controller.

I just bit the bullet on a BCDC40. Made in Australia and not where everything else is made. Support has been great answering my questions so far.

They have a wiring diagram on their support FAQs page that shows how to set it up for self jumps.
Renogy has higher output versions as well, up to 60 amps. Made in Australia is a nice perk, I’m not normally a fan of supporting the place where everything else is made either.
 
Here's the aftermarket cabin link switch I use if anyone's interested in that:
You'll need an override like this if you want to self-jump.
 
I have had years of really stable good luck with both the 7610 and 7622. I am wondering if it symptomatic of your wiring lengths, gauge, etc. I always put the ACR (either one) as close to the battery as possible. Shorter wire = less voltage loss, and that in turn allows the ACR to combine and separate easier and more effectively as its sensing really accurate voltage. With the ACR near the battery, you can run across the core support with the cable to the other battery and total cable length would easily be less than what you have with the ACR installed on the cowl. This is what I would be revisiting. I would double check the ground too. It wont work without it grounded.
That's good info that I hadn't thought of. Certainly something to think about. Thanks!

The ground and all other connections are clean. Once the house battery is charged with a battery charger, the led starts blinking. The 7610 just quit working... though it worked well for over a year.
 
If you're not bowled over by the auto-switching part, you could opt for a switched relay. Less expensive, simpler, and you decide when to bind the batts.
By contrast, a BCDC is what you want when moving current over distance, i.e. from front batts to rear batts in a vehicle. Maybe not necessary in your sitch.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom