landtank said:
Along the lines of draining the clutch, I'd think that placing the parts on rack of some sort with a catch pan and put in an oven at say 150* would go along way in getting that stuff to drain more completely out of the base since that side doesn't come apart.
Agree, heat helps speed it up, also moving, changing the angle slightly during the process. I have used coffee cans, foam, plastic picnic type plates, piles of rags, etc.
landtank said:
And I'm not against the thicker oil, but for me it was staying as stock as possible unless there was a need for a change. It's still early with this setup as I've only got one loaded drive during hot weather under the belt. A few more trucks and some more miles might reveal a need for heavier oil.
That was my thought when I saw the adjustable valve last year, your experiments show it has a positive effect and maybe all that's necessary in cooler environments.
I talked briefly to the engineer about it, then sent him pictures of the clutch and fan with a note listing clutch capacity, our temps, etc. He was very impressed with the clutch and fan design, but said "what were they thinking putting 3000 cst in it? My recommendation would be some where between 15000 - 20000 cst, a good starting point for testing would be 17000 cst!"
His thought was that adjusting the valve was like putting a cooler thermostat in an overheating system, masking the real problem, an under performing radiator. It may get a head start on over shearing, but having the proper fluid would make for a more robust system.
He talked like a knowledgeable "car guy" but doesn't own a LC or ever worked on one and works for a company that sells silicone fluids, but he took the time to talk to me about our problem and sounded like he was interested in helping to solve it. I didn't get the impression that he was selling me and I think he realized that the quantities that I would buy wouldn't have an effect on their bottom line. So I classify his advice as honest, good input.
My thoughts on it; I have run thicker fluid in customers and my rigs with good results, all older style fixed valve clutches and 3.0's and 22R types, never a LC. So I don't have as strong of a "non stock" mod aversion and the fluid I have run up to this point has been from Toyota. My fan clutch was weak in my '90, 3.slow, Runner when I got it with ~100K, replaced the fluid with Toyota 10000 cst and never had a cooling, fan or clutch problem, wheeling, towing, etc. sold it with 200K, with the ring fan no less!
The part that I wasn't ready for, at all, was the 17000 cst recommendation!
I was thinking in the 6K-10K cst range, so that is well outside of my comfort zone. But his argument for it sounded good and think I will start at 15000 cst and see what happens? Hopefully no exploded fans!
