Blown radiator hose and now no start (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Mar 9, 2024
Threads
4
Messages
13
Location
Hendersonville, NC
'99 LX470

Late last week I was on the way to work and heard a pop. I didn't see any change to the temp gage but pulled over anyway to see what the issue was. As soon as I stopped to turn the truck died. It struggled to restart and I got it into a parking lot. I discovered that the lower radiator hose had burst and coolant was everywhere.

I saw there was still coolant in the overflow reservoir so I taped the hose and tried to limp home. I made it a couple miles and the same thing happened again so I got it towed.

I've replaced the hose, thermostat, and drained the coolant. I went ahead and drained the oil to check for coolant and found none. Both have been refilled, etc.

Now the truck won't start, the starter sounds like it's spinning but there's no combustion. I noticed the ground cable is hot after trying to start so I'm hoping for a short somewhere.

Any suggestions on what to check first?

I plan on checking relays, etc, first thing tomorrow.
 
The lower radiator hose is close to your alternator, and when it popped there’s a good chance it got soaked (and probably still is) knowing that glycol which is a main ingredient of anti-freeze doesn’t evaporate quickly. That said I would say check your alternator if it’s wet with antifreeze.
 
Pull all the plugs and check compression. Before that is pull a plug and coil and see for sparks if that's ok do a compression test.
 
When the lower hose blew you lost ALL of your coolant, except the quart in the reservoir. Think about it, you essentially knocked a hole in the bottom of a cup. The residual left in your curly straw is not an indicator there is anything left in the system.

When you restarted it most likely overheated very quickly, and your temp gauge won’t show you because there isn’t coolant to conduct the heat. I hope I’m wrong, but you most likely trashed the motor.
 
When the lower hose blew you lost ALL of your coolant, except the quart in the reservoir. Think about it, you essentially knocked a hole in the bottom of a cup. The residual left in your curly straw is not an indicator there is anything left in the system.

When you restarted it most likely overheated very quickly, and your temp gauge won’t show you because there isn’t coolant to conduct the heat. I hope I’m wrong, but you most likely trashed the motor.
That's definitely what I'm scared of. I drained a gallon or more of fluid out of the radiator when I got it home, haven't drained the block yet. I'm honestly glad to see anything coming out.

Tomorrow I'm planning on draining the block and pulling plugs for the compression test.
 
Just a quick update: compression tests revealed super low compression on several cylinders. Not surprising, I know.

I'm getting ready to start the teardown and look for any other damage.
 
Just a quick update: compression tests revealed super low compression on several cylinders. Not surprising, I know

I'm getting ready to start the teardown and look for any other damage.
Sounds bad. Probably time to look into junkyard 4.7s.

Was there factory clamp or worm style clamp (garbage) on that lower hose? Was radiator and hose original?

I'm gonna pull the heads and check everything out first, replacing the whole thing is on the table though.

Worm style clamps, I didn't take time to look at the old hose. I do believe the radiator is original but haven't looked closely at it.
 
Just a quick update: compression tests revealed super low compression on several cylinders. Not surprising, I know

I'm getting ready to start the teardown and look for any other damage.


I'm gonna pull the heads and check everything out first, replacing the whole thing is on the table though.

Worm style clamps, I didn't take time to look at the old hose. I do believe the radiator is original but haven't looked closely at it.
Just a suggestion, buy or rent a leak down tester before you go crazy on a tear down if possible also find a borescope.
You didn't say what were your readings, anything below 100 psi you are pretty much done. Leak down will just point out were you are losing most of your compression and a borescope is for looking at the walls for any scoring.
 
Super low compression, in two cylinders next to each other. Indicates blown head gasket and possible warped head(s). I'd scope cylinders. If walls look good. Consider head job. But if "good" engine found. It would be easier to just replace engine.

I'd also study head gasket around outside. Additionally, filling coolant system. Then pressurizing coolant system to 15 to 17 PSI. Scope cylinders, looking for coolant leaks while at 15 to 17 PSI.

Posting, each cylinders compression PSI numbers. Would be revealing.
Keep in mind. Compression is done at operating temp, and at 250 RPM, with throttle wide open and fuel pump cut off.
Cold engine, the numbers are going to be lower. How low and the difference between cylinder, is revealing.
 
Super low compression, in two cylinders next to each other. Indicates blown head gasket and possible warped head(s). I'd scope cylinders. If walls look good. Consider head job. But if "good" engine found. It would be easier to just replace engine.

I'd also study head gasket around outside. Additionally, filling coolant system. Then pressurizing coolant system to 15 to 17 PSI. Scope cylinders, looking for coolant leaks while at 15 to 17 PSI.

Posting, each cylinders compression PSI numbers. Would be revealing.
Keep in mind. Compression is done at operating temp, and at 250 RPM, with throttle wide open and fuel pump cut off.
Cold engine, the numbers are going to be lower. How low and the difference between cylinder, is revealing.
Good info for later.
 
Just a quick update: compression tests revealed super low compression on several cylinders. Not surprising, I know

I'm getting ready to start the teardown and look for any other damage.


I'm gonna pull the heads and check everything out first, replacing the whole thing is on the table though.

Worm style clamps, I didn't take time to look at the old hose. I do believe the radiator is original but haven't looked closely at it.
Not sure it's worth the time or effort to teardown. I'd just install a used engine. Personally I'd only pull heads on one of these if it bent valves (timing belt failure)
 

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