BJ74 trip to the Spa.

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I just went through this process fitting an older style Kaymar which came off a troopy onto my BJ74.

First thing is the side brackets extend a long way down the side of the rail, which may be fine on a troopy but fouls with the rear shackle hangers on the BJ74. So I cut them off somewhere behind the shackle hangers with the intent that I'll come up with some replacement for the removed bits at some point in the future. Next issue was there was a slight difference (10-12mm?) between the vertical locations of the bolt patterns on the ends of the rail versus the 'pintle hook' bolt pattern in the centre of the end-of-frame crossmember. I ended up plug welding and re-drilling the holes in the kaymar which bolt up on the ends of the chassis rails, was a bit of a pain but well worth it.
 
What he said.


There are two "legs" that extend forward that would bolt to the bottom of the frame exactly like a class 3 hitch platform on a pickup truck. Those legs have to be cut off just ahead of where the bumper bolts to the frame rails.

As far as bolt alignment goes I slotted the 4 center pintle holes in the rear cross member of the truck. They need to come up about 2/3 the diameter of the bolts. I also had to slot (to the front side) of all 6 frame mounting holes in the bumper about 1/4 the diameter of the bolts. My rear cross member did not have the captive nuts in it so slotting was no big deal.

Kamar wants you to knock the captive nuts out of the frame rails and open the holes up to 1/2 inch and use their supplied nuts and bolts. I did not want to do that to the truck so I used OEM grade 8 10mm bolts in those holes. Since I will never tow anything close to the 3,500 KG bumper rating I do not feel bad about the slightly smaller bolts or the loss of the forward frame mounts.
 
Thanks guys. I see what you're talking about the "legs" needing cut short...they're quite long and the 74 shackles seem about 6-8" from the rear of the frame so I can see how they won't fit up. That doesn't seem that big a deal to chop those off.

Bummer all the bolts holes don't line up though. I don't wanna be messing with welding and redrilling so opening the holes up on the bumper side a bit may be the ticket.

Thanks for the tips.
 
I do have some photos I will post up and more detail when I get some time. In the mean time you can call me and I can tell you more.
 
Kamar install tidbits:
As previously mentioned this bumper is intended to be fitted to a 75 Series and as a result it does not expect to be fitted to a shorter frame. The first step is to cut the forward support arms off and then toss them into the bushes off to the side of the carport.
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I used a circular saw with a carbide metal-cutting blade. This works very well and makes clean cuts. DO WEAR A FACE SHIELD, your eyes will thank you.
 
The "wings" that extend forward have an inside edge that was too close for comfort in relation to my freshly repaired and painted quarter panels. I trimmed them back with the same saw.
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The 75 Series bolt pattern appears to be slightly different. This makes the rear cross member pintle holes either too low or the frame rail holes too high, depending on your perspective. As a result it is necessary to slot either the bumper holes or the frame holes or a combination of both. I chose the combination. I slotted the frame pintle holes upward and the bumper frame rail holes forward. In my case the "raised" bumper resulted in a close clearance between the step plate and the rear doors. It does not touch but it is close. In retrospect it may be better to use the original cross member pintle holes and slot the bumper frame rail holes upward and to the front. You get to pick your poison. In the latter you slot 6 holes instead of 4 and you go in two directions instead of one and the material is thicker and tougher. IE it takes more beer to get through it....:lol:
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I wrapped the wings with the foam used to ship the carriers in so that I would not damage the quarter panels during the trial and error fitting process.
 
As previously mentioned this bumper is intended to be fitted to a 75 Series and as a result it does not expect to be fitted to a shorter frame.
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Dan, I couldn't help but notice this part: "This bumper is intended to be fitted to a 75 Series"
I just happen to have a 75 Series when you get tired of the bumper. I'll be glad to pay for the shipping. : )
 
The only drawback is I cut those parts off.......:lol:
 
Dan - To your knowledge, does your truck have the stock exhaust? If so, you may want to peek at how close the tailpipe is to the rear bumper supports. I didn't realize how close it was--only about 3 inches or so--and it was dumping straight onto a support section of the bumper. My rear quarter turned black from soot in a hurry and the powder coat has melted and distorted at that spot on the support. I can't see it that well, but it even almost looks like the support has distorted a bit even. Keep in mind I've been driving mine daily on the interstate for a couple weeks now. Ive just gotten all new exhaust today so should be all good now.

Anyway, if you haven't noticed one way or the other, you outghtta have a look.
 
Mine has a 2.5 inch custom run. I had to cut it back and add a dump that points straight down. I did that a couple days after the bumper went on.

I can believe powder coat damage. I was more concerned about the tail lamp however.
 
Just read this whole thread man, so awesome! Our 70's need to meet up and play. Got my springs on last week and last part of my turbo should come in soon!. See ya around!
 
I have the numbers at home, I'll see if I can dig them up.
 
I have a complete set front and rear sitting boxed in my garage is some one is interested. Mine are for a BJ 70 but I see no reason that they would not fit on a 74.
 
They will work.

Do yours have white painted letters? That would be the earlier version.
 
front right:
76603-90k00 (or 01)
front left:
76604-90k00 (or 01)

rear right:
76607-90k00
rear left:
76608-90k00
 
If memory serves those numbers will have white letters. The numbers I got are not painted and are 60X-sequence in the suffix instead of 90X-sequence.
 

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