Bj74 Solid fan kit Picture

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roscoFJ73 said:
In regard to the thermostat I was unaware that it keeps the engine at optimum temperature once its warmed up.
The coolant would have to be really cool exiting the radiator to close the thermo.
I also thought that most manufacturers have scrapped the fixed fan in favor of clutch or electrically operated jobs
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I have a mechanical temp guage on my BJ42. I can watch the thermostat open and close when driving on the highway, light load, and when going down long hills. The coolant temp at the probe will fluctuate up to 20F (I think...from memory, as it has been parked a little while now). The amount of time between opening and closing is dependant on load, ambient temp, etc...up to the point climbing hills or fighting a headwind where it will stay open. The cooling system (rad, hoses, waterpump, thermostat) were all new when I did the renovation, and I did a system flush for the block, so I know all of that stuff is good. I have never checked the clutch fan for function, however after this thead I will. I have backed out of it a few times when fighting really strong headwinds to keep the coolant at a good temp.

hth's

gb
 
propane actually causes a diesel to run cooler.
a trubo injects more air into the chamber which should cause a diesel to run cooler.
so the only real change was the increase of fuel which generates more heat. the heat from the rad should have activated the clutch fan to suck more air through the rad since both the fan rotation and the air through the rad is going the same direction the fan should have had no problem keeping up with increase of load but it didn't. it would be very interesting to know what percentage the fan was working at in comparisions to the fixed unit. the change between the 2 was dramatic and instant so in my mind the clutch fan was not operating up to need.
oh well, i drive land cruisers with the clutch fan and i still do not trust them so on long hills i find the temps raise on the gauge even when the pyro is sitting steady. there is no relation between the pyro (load) readings and the water temp readings... curious as to why this is...
anyway, i enjoy a discussion like this. i learn a lot more bantering back and forth than a one sided conversation.
cheers
 
crushers said:
a trubo injects more air into the chamber which should cause a diesel to run cooler.cheers
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In "moderation"...yes. I bet all "heathly" 3B's would be happier with a turbo. However, bump the fuel, put the turbo at the point where the air temp is up a bit and...

Also...it is all about load Wayne. Keep your foot into it, on a steep long grade...expect and push it to the limit...continue to keep your foot into it....and it will not run be running cooler.

Also...riddle me this: Heat is energy. You are adding more heat energy (that is why you can go up the hill faster).

Jury is out on Propane and effects. Yes, I still have the kit and will be experimenting with it at some point. I am not negative propane...simply need to learn more. There is so much conflicting information out there...this is a thread all on it's own. Let's not clutter it here, but again. Where is that extra power (energy) coming from? The creation of heat.

gb
 
heat = energy
Wayne's foot on the throttle = high stress
fixed fan = less worring for Wayne
clutch fan is fine for the masses unless the masses take after Wayne

give the fixed fan a try on your 3B and let me know the results both on the pyro readings and on the temp readings. i am curious to see if it matches my results or maybe this really was a one off...

cheers
 
Just wondering .. ( interesting theme ) maybe the air speed throught the rad and fan only is more if you have a 6BT inside at 1400 rpm when you vehicle goues over 120 km/h ..

In my specific case .. at 120 km/h ( max cruiser speed for me ) my 2H runs at 2600 rpm so how much CFM move your factory fan with fan clutch, how much CFM move you factory fixed fan and hoy much CFM pass throught your rad to your engine ar 120 km/h .. ?

good questions .. !
 
Tapage said:
Just wondering .. ( interesting theme ) maybe the air speed throught the rad and fan only is more if you have a 6BT inside at 1400 rpm when you vehicle goues over 120 km/h ..

In my specific case .. at 120 km/h ( max cruiser speed for me ) my 2H runs at 2600 rpm so how much CFM move your factory fan with fan clutch, how much CFM move you factory fixed fan and hoy much CFM pass throught your rad to your engine ar 120 km/h .. ?

good questions .. !
Click to expand...

Thats the big question. Boat propellers are identified by a number that represents how far one turn of the propeller will theoretically move water ,eg a size 15 propeller moves the water 15 inches in one revolution from my hazy memory of my boat days.

Does someone know how to do this calc on fan blade?

Other miscellaneos radiator tech says the fan should cover 70% of the radiator surface to be effective. This holds true as a few vehicles Ive looked at with less than 70% cover run into overheating probs sooner
 
Pitch on the boat prop gives the distance {in Theory } that the boat prop moves forward in one revolution, the screw principal.Usually shown 15x16 pitch x diameter.
Early I said I was unable to find the CFM of the fan, I did a search and Toyota Tech here could not tell me either.:o :confused: On my HSV it also has 8 blades but they are curved they are also 25mm longer and the blades are 125mm wide as against 82mm for the HJ75 so there variables for the shape as well. Sure as hell would not like this fan spinning at 6,500 rpm. LOL.:D :beer:
 
The black magic fan is pretty much recognized electrin fan for V8 conversions and factory replacement fan .. so it handle 2500 CFM aprox ..

Just wondering again .. maybe the factory fan moves about 2000 - 2500 CFM
 
crushers said:
oh my, i love this statement...
where to start?
vacumm pump on the back of the 1980 and later alternators that strip
BEB that fail on the HDT
heads that crack on the 3B, 2LT
no bottom end oilers in the 2H
bell cranks on the old 40 series
the smaller front diffs on the 90 and later land cruisers
drum brakes on the 73 and older cruisers
clutch fans
the autos in the HJ61s
and of course who can forget the great respect we all have for the elec gauges in our trucks

of course i knew you were kidding but i couldn't pass this up...
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I totally agree with you, those things could have been made to never brake if toyota had engineered them 100%, but still think about those issues, when do they happen mostly 200 000 to 500 000km's. People that drive domestic cars wouldn't even believe me if I had a full list of things that have actually gone wrong with my truck since day one. umm lets see brakes, some wiring issues (probably some moron caused), seals in front axle, and gauges, also put a new water pump on because the gasket leaked. Other then that everything has just been maintance and for being 20 years old and 275 000km on the clock that is seriosuly nothing. I knwo people at work with 50000 dollar domestic luxury cars that have had 4000 bucks worth of warrenty work done before 100 000km, i'm talking a car that is 3 years old. I bet you won't see any of them in 10 years let alone 20.

I know when you work with things everyday and see the problems time and time again it becomes something you look for and an issue,

I just pray my vacum splines don't strip in the near future, any idea how much all that costs if it is right screwed?
cheers
 
Eric Winkworth said:
II just pray my vacum splines don't strip in the near future, any idea how much all that costs if it is right screwed?
cheers
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the vacumm pump is $1100 and the Alternator is $400.

like you said i work with these everyday so it amases me that these problems even exist with Toyota. they over build almost everything.

cheers
 
alternator and vaccum pump tip ...

Here we foun OEM Hyundai Galloper Alternator that come with vaccum pumo .. it's a 110 AMP alternator and the case is very very close to my 2H alternator ..

For 200 USD you get brand new alternator, more amps and vaccum pump.
 
crushers said:
the vacumm pump is $1100 and the Alternator is $400.

like you said i work with these everyday so it amases me that these problems even exist with Toyota. they over build almost everything.

cheers
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Out of curiosity I just priced a genuine vacuum pump repair kit from Toyota for my 2H HJ75 . Here it is $104.50 including G.S.T. no doubt it would be cheaper down south.
AU$104.50 = US$77.10 [lucky yanks] and Canadian $89.19 [not too bad also]
I recently bought a spare secondhand alternator complete with working vacuum pump for $65.00.cheers gazza.
 
you can get repair kits?!?
i will be contacting you...
cheers and thanks for the info...
 
bbd, what's included in the repar kit? Not the splined part that takes the vanes is it?

Thanks

gb
 
Greg_B said:
bbd, what's included in the repar kit? Not the splined part that takes the vanes is it?

Thanks

gb
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Hi GB, No, the kit does not include the splined part. The vanes run out at about $24/25 each, the bolts and O-rings are available separately also. If the spindle is dead you will need to buy a new pump app $900.00. Seems like a few secondhand ones would be a wise investment.From what I am told they are not replaced that often as our local guy did not have one in stock but can get it overnight. :cheers:
 
i have never had to replace a single vane or seal, it is always the splines that go long before any wear is noticed...
too bad...i was hoping for the splined part
 
Wayne, the splines on the shaft or the pump are the ones that go in your experience? I've thought typically it is the alt shaft.

We've a good number of pumps on the shelf, and can have alt's with pooched splines redone.

gb
 
mostly on the alternator but the VP also is worn quite badly hence having to replace both at the end of the day...
that is good to know about the decent pumps you have there. a new alternator is cheap cpompared to the pump...
 
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