Bj74 Solid fan kit Picture
- Thread starter Gold Boy
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crushers said:
Well at speed the rush of air through the clean unblocked radiator will cool the coolant.
I dont think the clutch fan is totally reliant on the spring being heated,its also senses the force of the wind .
Gold Boy said:
any part # ?
and this is exactly why i do not like or trust these fan systems. when does most over heating occure with a diesel? climbing hills (at least what i have seen around here) or towing. you can rocket all day on the flats with no problems but through in a couple long hills and the coolant temps rise, this is where the fan is needed to help with the cooling. if the fan isn't doing it's job then the problem multiplies at the worst possible time...roscoFJ73 said:
cheers
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I run two electrical fans (and not crap davies craig stuff either). They're jumped off the coolant temp sensor and have a manual override switch (3 position) so I can turn them totally off, totally on, or auto. Took a bit to setup but I never -ever- have heat issues. I've got a brand new radiator too.
i am thinking of trying this on the 2LTE i have here just to see if it changes anything, i have been watching the temps on this one and have not been impressed at all. if a solid fan can keep the temps more constant MAYBE it will help keep these heads alive longer...
if you are right then there really shouldn't be any big change at all other than a loss of power on the highway...
cheers
if you are right then there really shouldn't be any big change at all other than a loss of power on the highway...
cheers
Gold Boy said:
..if no part #... any other vehicule cross-reference ?
- Thread starter
- #50
That's what I'm talking about! 3 pole switch all on, all off, or auto. BrilliantEntaran said:
I really liked my clutch fan. It worked flawlessly until it stopped working at all. I drilled a few holes in it and bolted it solid and now it works agian. Unfortunately my head is cracked now. I wonder if it was worth all those extra MPGs.
We might have learned something with this thread though. It seems like blocked rads cause failed fan clutches. Interesting. I hate blocked rads.
We might have learned something with this thread though. It seems like blocked rads cause failed fan clutches. Interesting. I hate blocked rads.
- Thread starter
- #53
How many hot cfm's through a RAD to engauge the clutch fan.... anyone... ?
Just a silly question, with small possiblilty of an answer.
Thanks
GB
Just a silly question, with small possiblilty of an answer.
Thanks
GB
Put the hub you removed under the hot water tap and it should expand the bi metal spring this will then cause the pressure on the clutch to increase.I held the heat gun near nine and and check that the spring has not snapped or become disconnected.Gold Boy said:
Those of us with the 70 series trucks have the problem that the size and shape of the engine bay especially with the big motors seems to combine to make positive pressures in the engine bay thus restricting airflow, the 60 series wagon is far better and enjoys a far greater airflow.Also I am told it has more capacity in the radiator.
Also are the USA & Canadian trucks fitted with a 4 core radiator the same as Oz. cheers gazza
this wouldn't be the same head that you drove home 1000 km from Vancouver with the over heating problem?lowenbrau said:
was that because of the fan or because of the rad or were the cracks in the head already there causing that problem?
cheers
Wayne, I, for one, would interested to hear the results of your solid fan experiment on the 2L-TE. I'm in the process of rebuilding my engine right now, and going back and forth between switching to solid fan (using Lowenbrau's method) or rebuilding the clutch fan.
Maybe it will be me that conducts this particular experiment!
Robin
Maybe it will be me that conducts this particular experiment!
Robin
- Thread starter
- #57
As you can tell I am not an expert....
But I can't see any major disavantage with a solid fan, the pros out way the cons for me.
Simple is good not bad.
GB
But I can't see any major disavantage with a solid fan, the pros out way the cons for me.
Simple is good not bad.
GB
lowenbrau said:
I am no where near an expert on engines and stuff either, however I have a few thoughts that have been surfacing...
By George...Bruce, I think you are onto something!
Actually, we need to make sure these are apples that are being compared, and not some fruit of another ilk. I suppose it all comes down to thermal load; amount of fuel, air, and load (ignoring a lot of other contributing factors). Take a stock truck, in stock tune, with a functioning stock thermal management system, then take Toyota's penchant to put low power engines behind strong drivetrains to gain it's renowned longevity and all is well (also to not max out "power" output from the engine...in other words a good margin for error).
Now take a naturally aspirated diesel engine, pump the fuel up, add propane, and go at least an atmosphere or more of boost...all through some tiny precups and one could see how the stock cooling system might not keep up when your foot in on the floor for a long time. (The thermal load "in" the head must be pretty incredible).
Also take a further detuned engine (to meet air emission standards for underground work, add a clogged rad and perhaps an ever increasing load of silt in the water jacket, and one could see how the stock cooling system might not keep up. (what is the underground mine temps and what is the humidity?).
Take another Toyota diesel and pull a heavy load, slowly, on a hot summers day (max it) and you could very well go beyond the stock cooling systems ability...of course this assumes all is well with the water pump, a clean water jacket, and a fully functional rad.
I am thinking work load increases thermal load...it's as simple as that. As soon as you start getting to the outer fringe of the thermal management system due to the workload placed on the engine...or if the thermal management system is failing...you may well need to get a solid fan, or address the issue with some other solution.
Such as: start tweaking the system to help manage the heat load [larger rad, better air flow (in, through and around the engine), less fuel (take your foot out of it), solid fan, etc....
I dunno...I think if there was this massive issue with the clutch fans we would have heard about this day after day after day, from all around the world where Toyota diesels work. There does not seem to be this cry of despair welling up...
Do they need servicing once in a while; Yes.
So...imo...recognize if you are going to be on the outer edge of "normal designed parameters from the factory", and make the changes needed to keep the engine thermally efficient...
But don't blame it on the clutch fan...
hth's
gb
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Ohhh, and to ensure the solid fan is not simply masking a problem and is not a solution to a fully functional system in good repair that is simply driven to the edge on occasion, I would look at ensuring the current set-up is performing as intended: rad in good repair, coolant fresh and jacket not polluted with silt, not over fuelling, adequate airflow, clutch fan working ala bbd's test, and get a pryo and boost gauge and see what it is really doing on those long pulls. I am sure there are more things you can do to ensure top tune that I am forgetting.
hth's
gb
hth's
gb
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- Thread starter
- #60
Thanks gb .... I agree
Solid fans good shrouds is a good combo for thoes who off road hill climb, towing at 35C+ where speeds are low and revs are higher than normal..
We have a hill up here which you could try this summer for a test .
GB
Solid fans good shrouds is a good combo for thoes who off road hill climb, towing at 35C+ where speeds are low and revs are higher than normal..
We have a hill up here which you could try this summer for a test .
GB