crushers
post ho
i just installed a 1990 and newer unit, other than a change in plug it is a plug and play ...
just FYI.
cheers
just FYI.
cheers
BJ74 Restoration and LHD Conversion has begun!
- Thread starter Shes Mad
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #342
Yan did reply that it was NLA. Good to know the newer one will work. I had to change the plug on the Harness to round, as the BJ74 harness was not the round connector.
Wayne, were you using the 24V model LHD?
I totally forgot about this when I did my conversion. I had to take the 12V windings from my LHD BJ70 apart and insert the 24V ones from the RHD BJ74. It was finicky and flaky to do but it did work in the end.
- Thread starter
- #344
I remember you saying that, which is where I got the idea. I just couldn't believe the outside can w/magnets would make a difference
- Thread starter
- #345
I finally got 1 door panel on. Yes, just one. Seemed like a straight forward job, but the wires were too short from the window switch, so they had to be lengthened. Then the wires were rubbing the window, so they had to be tied back. Then the power window relay hit the panel. Had to pull the brackets off then switch sides to remount. Panel on, then off, then on,then off, then on. Time consuming, but they are clear now, and the windows and locks work. Others will be a LOT easier!
- Thread starter
- #346
Tried to start the truck earlier this evening. I plugged it in for a couple hours, even though it is in a 50 degree shop. Cranked a while, no fire. Rest, crank a while, no fire. One more time and no fire and batteries low. Have to recharge.
Try again on Saturday, when I have more time. May need starting fluid to get it to fire and get the juices flowing before I wear out the batteries and the starter.
Try again on Saturday, when I have more time. May need starting fluid to get it to fire and get the juices flowing before I wear out the batteries and the starter.
crushers
post ho
did you prime it with the plunger?
crack the injector line at the injector, usually a half turn is all that is needed.
crank till you have bubbles or squirt of fuel coming out of the line and tighten that one down.
once all 4 are bled then you have fuel to the cyl.
even after sitting for ages, these old pigs fire up very easily.
you confirmed the glow screen is doing its job?
glow - fuel - fire in the hole.
crack the injector line at the injector, usually a half turn is all that is needed.
crank till you have bubbles or squirt of fuel coming out of the line and tighten that one down.
once all 4 are bled then you have fuel to the cyl.
even after sitting for ages, these old pigs fire up very easily.
you confirmed the glow screen is doing its job?
glow - fuel - fire in the hole.
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- Thread starter
- #348
I will address the fuel. I have the glowscreen disconnected right now. Haven't figured that one out yet.
crushers
post ho
with out the glow, even on warm days, the initial fire can be hard.
think of it this way, the ambient temps will not be the same as a hot engine.
the fuel needs to be heated.
buy a 12V to 24V inverter, wire it up and have at it.
think of it this way, the ambient temps will not be the same as a hot engine.
the fuel needs to be heated.
buy a 12V to 24V inverter, wire it up and have at it.
- Thread starter
- #350
Well let me attempt to fix the factory glow screen. I may have it wired wrong on the studs.
Help me through this
For the studs you have a rectangular insulator on the 2 studs.
On the front stud I have(from the engine out):
Rectangular insulator(covers both studs, also insulates the stud from the wires)
Wire from the stud to the side of glow screen
Metal Washer
Thick insulator
8GA wire from solenoid pack
Disconnect wire
Nut/metal washer combination
Rear stud is the same except for the disconnect wire. So I am thinking I have it together wrong---that all 3 wires on the stud need to be insulated from the stud. So on the stud it should be:
Rectangular insulator
8GA Wire from the stud to the side of glow screen
8GA wire from solenoid pack
Disconnect wire
Metal Washer
Thick insulator washer
Nut/metal washer combination
So in the second description, the wires from the solenoid pack are insulated from the center stud. In the first description, the wires from the solenoid pack contact the center stud, and the wire from the solenoid pack smoked.
Did I just reason myself into a solution?
Help me through this
For the studs you have a rectangular insulator on the 2 studs.
On the front stud I have(from the engine out):
Rectangular insulator(covers both studs, also insulates the stud from the wires)
Wire from the stud to the side of glow screen
Metal Washer
Thick insulator
8GA wire from solenoid pack
Disconnect wire
Nut/metal washer combination
Rear stud is the same except for the disconnect wire. So I am thinking I have it together wrong---that all 3 wires on the stud need to be insulated from the stud. So on the stud it should be:
Rectangular insulator
8GA Wire from the stud to the side of glow screen
8GA wire from solenoid pack
Disconnect wire
Metal Washer
Thick insulator washer
Nut/metal washer combination
So in the second description, the wires from the solenoid pack are insulated from the center stud. In the first description, the wires from the solenoid pack contact the center stud, and the wire from the solenoid pack smoked.
Did I just reason myself into a solution?
The studs provide a mechanical connection only. They are grounded. The insulators keep the electrical connections away from the studs.
- Thread starter
- #352
Well the way I have it, the connections are not insulated from the studs. So I must fix that tonight! Should the small gauge wire (the disconnect) be in contact with the other wires on the front stud, or isolated from them
Thanks John
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Yer welcome, but I don't know what the 'disconnect' wire is. If you can show where it goes perhaps I can see if there is one on my 13B-T.
- Thread starter
- #354
It is a small green with that connects to one of the studs. It has a disconnect plug on it. It shows in the blue engine manual, page ST-11
All the connections at the studs should be in contact with the other wires on the stud, and electrically isolated from the studs. You can check this with a continuity meter, or a simple tester made with a 9v battery and a 12v bulb.
- Thread starter
- #356
MIRRORS
My chrome side mirrors are pretty tarnished, so I am going to take them apart and paint the housings semi gloss black. The problem is that I cannot figure out how to get the glass out of the housings!!!
Any help? Looked all over the workshop manual and could not find anything on the mirrors
My chrome side mirrors are pretty tarnished, so I am going to take them apart and paint the housings semi gloss black. The problem is that I cannot figure out how to get the glass out of the housings!!!
Any help? Looked all over the workshop manual and could not find anything on the mirrors
- Thread starter
- #357
Still could use help on how to take the mirrors apart to paint them. Don't want to break anything.
But I DID get most of the interior in, and the top set on it. I have to trace out where the headliner has to go so I don't have any gaps! Progress!!!!
But I DID get most of the interior in, and the top set on it. I have to trace out where the headliner has to go so I don't have any gaps! Progress!!!!
crushers
post ho
nice
where did you get the panels from?
where did you get the panels from?
- Thread starter
- #359
Steve Bennett
SMS Headliners, LLC
A1500ram on this site
I started a thread on it last fall
The interior trims look great, did they press the trim lines on individual request or are they standard. On another note I think I read you have FRP flares from oz , how did you find the quality of the FRP flares are they flimsy thin, or quite sturdy and strong, as I'm looking at either factory flares or opting for FRP. The rig is looking great, you doing a quality job, cheers
