good point, and completely unselfishly I support moose's suggestion-I need some parts too 
BJ70 Frame? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Canuck
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- Thread starter
- #22
The vultures are circling! lol
If I was to go the new frame route, is that something that can be done without airtools? I'd have 6 months to do it during the summer so I wouldn't be rushed. Though I've never done something like this so it would be a learning experience, that's for sure.
Sorry for all the questions, I'm just trying to explore every option I have. I really do like the truck and enjoy driving it.
If I was to go the new frame route, is that something that can be done without airtools? I'd have 6 months to do it during the summer so I wouldn't be rushed. Though I've never done something like this so it would be a learning experience, that's for sure.
Sorry for all the questions, I'm just trying to explore every option I have. I really do like the truck and enjoy driving it.
crushers
post ho
you will need a good hoist or a STRONG cherry picker to support the body while it is off. you will need to lift and support the frame while you are transfering / instaling the drivetrain.
you will need to access to a few good tools but yes it can be done with out air tools although this will make the job much easier, a torch will be nice also...
cheers
you will need to access to a few good tools but yes it can be done with out air tools although this will make the job much easier, a torch will be nice also...
cheers
moose_sv1000s said:
Do NOT ever use undercoating! It WILL crack with age, allowing water in behind, then the rust starts and you do not know it. Instead, keep clean, and spray a wax based rust proofing oil everywhere a couple times a year. Boeshield, 3M rust proofing, Fluid Film etc...
My 2.5 cents.
gb
Canuck said:
Go for it and make sure you post lots of pictures here. I am going to put another frame under my 45. Hopefully this summer. pete
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Greg_B said:
I have been saying the same for years, never undercoat its the coating that fails and holds moisture behind the frame out of sight.
I spoke with Rob Millson today and he is your man to call.
If you do decide to do the work yourself and you like myself do not have a hoist available, you would be wise to call a high up truck. For the 75.00 dollars and minutes it takes to place the body or remove it, money well spent.
Canuck, IMHO if you aren't obsessed with THIS truck, don't take it on. Part or sell it and find another beater with a better frame.
It's one thing for a Cruiserhead to put that kind of time and effort into building his/her dream truck, but for a winter beater?
*disclaimer* - I'm NOT looking for parts
It's one thing for a Cruiserhead to put that kind of time and effort into building his/her dream truck, but for a winter beater?
*disclaimer* - I'm NOT looking for parts
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Greg_B said:
Let me elaborate, not the hard stuff, this stuff:
Rust Cure Formula 3000
Corrosion Free's formula 3000 is a clean, clear, drip-free
lubricant gel that will never crack or peel. Thousands of
applications without a single warranty claim for product failure.
Especially formulated for today's better built vehicles it protects
all metals, not just steel. For older vehicles, It releases cleaners
and moisture inhibitors to penetrate and treat damaged areas
establishing a basis for Cure for Rust. A treatment at least
once every 18 months is the best protection you can give
your vehicle.
http://www.corrosionfree.com/home.htm
bj70_guy said:Canuck, IMHO if you aren't obsessed with THIS truck, don't take it on. Part or sell it and find another beater with a better frame.
It's one thing for a Cruiserhead to put that kind of time and effort into building his/her dream truck, but for a winter beater?
*disclaimer* - I'm NOT trying looking for parts
Ditto...I'm all for saving vehicles...like adopting at the pound...but I can tell you from expereince that extreme rust is a cancer that is an uphill battle. I tried to restore a classic VW bus once, and I ended up parting it out after my third or fourth spool of MIG wire...some horses are better left dead.
*disclaimer* - I'm trying to take advantage of the situation for my own benefit. (did I say that out loud?"
Canuck, this is what happened to me when I decided to tackle the body on my BJ42. It was fun...and a huge learning curve.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=30807
gb
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=30807
gb
Last edited:
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Its like this........... I had two local BJ60 owners who came through my door in the last couple of weeks the same thing. I told each of them they are better off getting rid of the rusty rig, not that I do not want the work but I feel they would do much better with a JDM.
It sucks living in BC, we have nothing but rusty cruisers, all I want is a chance to work on rigs like viewed at Pismo......(Dream on). Actuallly thats the only thing that sucks living in BC, otherwise its paradise.
Long story short, cut your losses...........
It sucks living in BC, we have nothing but rusty cruisers, all I want is a chance to work on rigs like viewed at Pismo......(Dream on). Actuallly thats the only thing that sucks living in BC, otherwise its paradise.
Long story short, cut your losses...........
- Thread starter
- #33
What are the differences (plus and minus) between a BJ70 with a 3B like mine and a LJ71 with a 2LT like the ones that are on Wayne's LuxuryImports.ca site?
crushers
post ho
please allow me to respond to this question.
in Japan this is one of the biggest selling models of Land Cruiser. they are very nimble, excellent on fuel and reliable.
the LJ71 is smoother (coil suspension), quicker (with the propane injection), more comfortable and better on fuel than the BJ70.
I have taken a number of customers for test drives that have owned BJ60s or BJ70s and the most common comment is "wow, this is really comfortable and quiet." and the second most common comment is "this is faster than I thought it would be". Note though it is not a 13BT by any stretch of the imagination.
both the 3B and the 2LT can and will have head cracks if over heated.
the drive train is similar to the mini truck drivetrain, all but the t/case which is the same as a cruiser.
similar to the 3B the towing rating sucks, anything bigger than a utility trailer is not recommended.
Sales pitch:
the LJ71 comes with power windows, mirrors, door locks, AC and brand new CD installed. these are all rust proofed and have block heaters installed. if you look at the luxury site you will see a list of everything that is checked and supplied.
the trucks are rust free, the lower priced units will have small dents or higher mileage. the higher priced ones are clean and very low km.
my wife is driving one now as a daily driver till her HDJ81 can come in and she is happy with the LJ71.
if I missed answering any of your questions feel free to ask and I will try and help you out.
cheers
in Japan this is one of the biggest selling models of Land Cruiser. they are very nimble, excellent on fuel and reliable.
the LJ71 is smoother (coil suspension), quicker (with the propane injection), more comfortable and better on fuel than the BJ70.
I have taken a number of customers for test drives that have owned BJ60s or BJ70s and the most common comment is "wow, this is really comfortable and quiet." and the second most common comment is "this is faster than I thought it would be". Note though it is not a 13BT by any stretch of the imagination.
both the 3B and the 2LT can and will have head cracks if over heated.
the drive train is similar to the mini truck drivetrain, all but the t/case which is the same as a cruiser.
similar to the 3B the towing rating sucks, anything bigger than a utility trailer is not recommended.
Sales pitch:
the LJ71 comes with power windows, mirrors, door locks, AC and brand new CD installed. these are all rust proofed and have block heaters installed. if you look at the luxury site you will see a list of everything that is checked and supplied.
the trucks are rust free, the lower priced units will have small dents or higher mileage. the higher priced ones are clean and very low km.
my wife is driving one now as a daily driver till her HDJ81 can come in and she is happy with the LJ71.
if I missed answering any of your questions feel free to ask and I will try and help you out.
cheers
- Thread starter
- #35
So the drivestrain on the LJ71 is not as strong as that of a BJ70? As for the engine, I've never driven a 13BT so I don't have much to compare my current 3B to though I can't image it would be to hard to make any engine faster lol.
I guess my other question is how hard is it to source parts for an LJ71? I'm thinking down the road when things would need to be replaced due to wear etc.
And what about a 70 series with a 13BT? How often do you bring those in and what do they tipically go for? Sorry for all the questions Wayne, I just really want to make the right decision on what to do with my current rig or go for a JDM of some sort.
I guess my other question is how hard is it to source parts for an LJ71? I'm thinking down the road when things would need to be replaced due to wear etc.
And what about a 70 series with a 13BT? How often do you bring those in and what do they tipically go for? Sorry for all the questions Wayne, I just really want to make the right decision on what to do with my current rig or go for a JDM of some sort.
crushers
post ho
So the drivestrain on the LJ71 is not as strong as that of a BJ70? As for the engine, I've never driven a 13BT so I don't have much to compare my current 3B to though I can't image it would be to hard to make any engine faster lol.
---that depends on who you talk to, are you planning on huge tires? i have seen mini trucks running 38" tires on stock drivetrains but i do NOT recommend larger than 31s on a LJ71.
I guess my other question is how hard is it to source parts for an LJ71? I'm thinking down the road when things would need to be replaced due to wear etc.
---since the body from the firewall back is the same as a 70 series (although RHD) and because it is 12V system most of the parts can be found at your local Toyota dealer. the drivetrain is the same as the mini so as long as they can find parts for the mini you will be able to source parts for the LJ71. They even imported the 2LT into Canada and the US for 85-88 (i might be off on my years) so even the engine parts are avaiable. the brakes are the same etc.
And what about a 70 series with a 13BT? How often do you bring those in and what do they tipically go for?
---the BJ74 is fast and a blast to drive. it has a bit more room inside since it is a bit longer. the insides are hard to tell the difference between the BJ74 and the LJ71. they share the same dash layout. the BJ74 is a bit rougher ride but still nice.
i have started bringing the BJ74 on request unless i find a really sweet unit.
the BJ74 can go as cheap as "ol smokey" for $6500 or as high as the "Pretty One" $35,000. it depends on the condition, milage and options. the "Pretty One" was the finest BJ74 i have ever seen, 27,000km and absolutely mint inside and out.
Sorry for all the questions Wayne, I just really want to make the right decision on what to do with my current rig or go for a JDM of some sort
--- so do i, if you get what you can afford and what fits the bill you will be happy, if you buy what someone tries and sells you, you will be an unhappy customer in the end. that is something neither one of us wants.
please contact me direct at wayne@crushersrule.com .
cheers
---that depends on who you talk to, are you planning on huge tires? i have seen mini trucks running 38" tires on stock drivetrains but i do NOT recommend larger than 31s on a LJ71.
I guess my other question is how hard is it to source parts for an LJ71? I'm thinking down the road when things would need to be replaced due to wear etc.
---since the body from the firewall back is the same as a 70 series (although RHD) and because it is 12V system most of the parts can be found at your local Toyota dealer. the drivetrain is the same as the mini so as long as they can find parts for the mini you will be able to source parts for the LJ71. They even imported the 2LT into Canada and the US for 85-88 (i might be off on my years) so even the engine parts are avaiable. the brakes are the same etc.
And what about a 70 series with a 13BT? How often do you bring those in and what do they tipically go for?
---the BJ74 is fast and a blast to drive. it has a bit more room inside since it is a bit longer. the insides are hard to tell the difference between the BJ74 and the LJ71. they share the same dash layout. the BJ74 is a bit rougher ride but still nice.
i have started bringing the BJ74 on request unless i find a really sweet unit.
the BJ74 can go as cheap as "ol smokey" for $6500 or as high as the "Pretty One" $35,000. it depends on the condition, milage and options. the "Pretty One" was the finest BJ74 i have ever seen, 27,000km and absolutely mint inside and out.
Sorry for all the questions Wayne, I just really want to make the right decision on what to do with my current rig or go for a JDM of some sort
--- so do i, if you get what you can afford and what fits the bill you will be happy, if you buy what someone tries and sells you, you will be an unhappy customer in the end. that is something neither one of us wants.
please contact me direct at wayne@crushersrule.com .
cheers
- Thread starter
- #37
I checked out the Sheldon's 70 frame today and it's in really good shape, no thining at all and it would look real nice once it's been cleaned up. I forgot to ask when I was there, but does anybody know the weight of a BJ70 frame?
Oh and Sheldon and Greg are really nice guys, they definetly know their stuff. But they put too many ideas in my head on what I could do with this truck! lol
Oh and Sheldon and Greg are really nice guys, they definetly know their stuff. But they put too many ideas in my head on what I could do with this truck! lol
70sguy
SILVER Star
I never shipped that new frame... Toyota did. I just brokered the deal. I get to take the blame for the largest part that ever went through the Sunrise Toyota parts dept.
My best guess is that a BJ70 frame weighs about 250lbs. I have lifted that frame and moved it around my self on numerous occasions over the last 6 years... I also blew my disc out a while back..hmm gota stop that.
And thanks.. it was nice to meet you today Peter
Sheldon
My best guess is that a BJ70 frame weighs about 250lbs. I have lifted that frame and moved it around my self on numerous occasions over the last 6 years... I also blew my disc out a while back..hmm gota stop that.
And thanks.. it was nice to meet you today Peter
Sheldon
lowenbrau
SILVER Star
Greg, Sheldon, Wayne and others here who know me are going to laugh when I say that that frame isn't bad enough to stop you from using as a winter beater for a long time yet. Coastal Cruisers used to have a tech inspection each year and whenever Brad would crawl out from under my BJ60 he'd swear he would never wheel with me again. That rig held together for years till I found my BJ70 and swapped the good parts to it and parted the rest.
Note to all, don't give up on your Cruisers too early. I can nearly always sqeeze another 100,000km out of a left-for-dead rig
Cheers,
Bruce
Note to all, don't give up on your Cruisers too early. I can nearly always sqeeze another 100,000km out of a left-for-dead rig
Cheers,
Bruce
