BJ60 - no heat from heater...

[alpinecowboy]

I'm grasping at straws to figure this one out... my heater is not blowing hot until 2 - 3 hours of highway driving. It has been this way for as long as I've owned it since last fall.

So far, I've done the following:
- flushed the heater core
- replaced the thermostat and gasket
- "burped" the system

still no luck. The p/o removed the rear heater, and I'm wondering if he didn't replumb the system correctly. Can someone take a picture of how their heater system is hooked up?

I want to see if I the hoses in my truck are running to the right places.

Thanks
Koby

 

[David*BJ70]

Picture I found from my ex-BJ60....not a very good pic !

Probably someone can give you better pictures. However, that for can help you : ToyoDIY.com

 

[David*BJ70]

How is your heater water valve assy ?

 

[alpinecowboy]

That was the first thing I checked... it is good. fully operational. I just feel like the heater hoses near the firewall that feed into the valve aren't getting good flow... but the truck runs super cool (even here in texas in mid summer with 68 days over 100º) all the time so the water pressure seems like it is good...

I am just totally stumped.

 

[Michael Hanson]

Pull hoses off the firewall and flush out the heater core. MIke

 

[Doug384]

I had the same problem a couple of autumns ago. After doing all the standard things that you have done I dug into the air plenum expecting a critter blockage. What I found was interesting. The control cable for the hot /cold selection on the dash moves a door that allows cool outside air to mix with heated air for temperature control. The pivots of the door were seized in the fully open position to outside air blocking most of the heat. Freeing the pivots with lube so that the door would swing, then checking the cable to make sure that the ends were properly adjusted and anchored brought back the option of full heat.

 

[alpinecowboy]

Doug
Where is this door that you describe? That sounds like a good option.

I did the heater core flush twice with no luck... pushed a ton of stuff out but it didn't bring heat.

Thanks
Koby

 

[David*BJ70]

Doug
Where is this door that you describe? That sounds like a good option.

I did the heater core flush twice with no luck... pushed a ton of stuff out but it didn't bring heat.

Thanks
Koby

the door is usualy inside the blower unit.

you can reached it by removing the ''air plastic duct''

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_1984_TOYOTA_LAND+CRUISER_BJ60LG-MK_8712.html?hl=87150

part 87211 on this page http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_1984_TOYOTA_LAND+CRUISER_BJ60LG-MK_8715.2.html

 

[Doug384]

I think that David has the right idea. I can't give you step by step directions because it has been over two years since I did it! The Head is just too full of other crap! I did flush the heater core with a garden hose releasing some particles but like you it made no difference. The previous owner sold it to me on the pretense that it needed a new heater core as it yielded no heat for him. It looked like a light corrosion had gripped the pivots which took a little oil and pressure to ease. It took more time getting in there as well as adjusting the cable which had started to bend against the immovable door.

 

[RufusTheDufus]

Do you get good air flow through the heater core? The stock foam in the heater unit tends to break down over time and crumble onto the top of the core. That plus 25+ years of dust will cut down on the amount of air that can blow through the heater core.

I had almost no heat in my HJ45. I flushed the core with a hose through the firewall. I got a bunch of stuff out. Later I pulled the under-dash heater unit and the blower from the engine compartment to replace all of the foam seals. I soaked the heater core in cleaner overnight and couldn't believe the amount of crap that came out of it even after flushing with a hose.

 

[roalco]

Are you sure that you are actually getting water to the heater core? If the rear heater is already removed, and you don't know when the last time all the heater hoses were replaced (they break down internally and the inner hose liner can become detached, creating a blistery restriction), I'd suggest you do yourself a favor and pull off all the metal bypass tubing (for the rear heater and also across the front of the head)(it also corrodes inside) and get about 6 feet of good quality 5/8" heater hose at a local supplier. Cut one piece (about 2 feet) to go from the lhs rear engine heater take off to the heater control valve on the fire wall, and a longer piece (about 4 feet) from the heater core outlet pipe back to the thermostat tie in. Good idea to replace the 90 degree hose elbow from the control valve to the heater core too. Check that the heater core is not blocked while you have the hoses off by hooking a garden hose to it at the firewall and prove good flow. Don't forget to secure the hoses where they travel along the engine to keep them from chaffing or over heating.

And is the blower working on all settings? If the fan is not working on all settings maybe that's the problem? I've had to rebuild the fan speed control resistor block twice in the past 24 years.

Actually, if you don't have AC you can quickly check if the heater core is getting hot by just removing the accordion duct that connects the blower to the heater box (passenger footwell) and get down there and look in the heater box with a flashlight. you will see when you move the HOT-COLD selector that an internal door opens and you can see the heater core. Reach in and gently feel the core face after the engine is warm and you will be able to tell if there is flow. It should be uniformly hot across the core face. Not sure about access if you have AC (not many BJ's up here came with air).
Good luck!

 

[alpinecowboy]

roalco
thanks a ton - i'll check all of that out. i don't feel like the heater is getting good flow to it, but it does have good flow through it if that makes sense as I did confirm that with the hose when I flushed it last. the hoses are all of an unknown age so it might be a good time to replace all the rad/heater hoses at once.
thanks
koby

 

[roalco]

While you are in there check the engine fitting (hose nipple) that the heater takes its supply from, it's steel and may have corrosion inside it or rust and sludge build up where it's fitted to the block. I just felt inside the nipple as far as I could, then used a piece of wood (an old chopstick) to make sure it was well clear back into the block gallery. Just make sure it's clear and open, then go from there.
Ross

 

[Turbo45]

where do the heater hoses go to on the engine
you need on to go to a high pressure section of the engine and the other to go to a low pressure
mabey your core is able to flow water through it but if both hoses are conected to the low pressure side then you wont get coolant flowing through the core
low pressure would be anywhere common with the lower rad hose
high pressure would be the head for example

 

[alpinecowboy]

Still stumped on this one.... I replaced the thermostat and gasket. Flushed the heater core until it ran clean like a Rocky Mountain stream... confirmed that I am correct on the heater hose setup for high/low pressure (although I may check that one more time for giggles)... no heat. None.

I'm going to replace the radiator cap just to knock it off the list.

Anyone have any other ideas short of replacing the heater core (which I'd really like to avoid as I'd have to pull my dash).

Thanks in advance
Koby

 

[Michael Hanson]

You do have the rubber o ring in the thermo. houseing? MIke

 

[alpinecowboy]

Yeah, I checked for that. After reviewing a ton of diagrams on it I don't think the 3B has that o ring like the 2F's and 3F's do. The gasket is a triangle gasket for the 3B engine and it bolts in place. At least it is in all the diagrams I've seen so far.

On that, If someone could post up a picture/diagram of how a BJ60 is plumbed relative to the heater core and the engine I'd greatly appreciate it.

 

[byrd39]

heater

Check the water pump,pull the return hose from the heater and see if the water pump is forcing
water into the heater core.

Bill

 

[alpinecowboy]

Could someone post some pics of how their heater is currently plumbed in the engine compartment of their BJ60? I'd really appreciate it.
Thanks
Koby

 

[alpinecowboy]

So based on what everyone is telling me here, I think that my heater core is hooked up to high pressure coming and going on both sides. Attached are three pics I took of the setup - if someone could take a look and let me know what they think I'd appreciate it. Again, the rear heater is not currently hooked up.

The first pic is the hose running from the upper left rear of the head to the heater control valve and then ultimately the top hose connector on the heater core going into the firewall.

The second pic shows where the hose coming out of the bottom side hose connector in the firewall runs back to the front of the engine on the right side of the head. It is a little nozzle (rusty colored in this picture) that is screwed into the head.

The third picture shows an inlet (?) that is capped by a brass fitting near the thermostat return (this is also tied into the lower rad hose return).