BJ42 refurbisment

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the lower rad hose has to go over the PS belt tensioner, beside the steering link, below the fan and not rub on anything. not an easy task.
first up was where the hose rubbed on the "sharp" edge of the tensioner.
i shaved some meat off and made the transition nice and smooth.
i used a lower rad hose from a 83/84 BJ42 and then cut and twisted till it cleared everything properly.

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more pics of the hose and the location
the good part is if anytime the owner needs to replace he just has to buy the same hose and use the old one as a pattern instead of trying to find 2 or three different aftermarket hoses that will work.

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the original setup that came to me for the soft top was about 1 3/4" too tall so i cut down the rear hoop so the top would sit proper.
using SS hardware and nutzerts the fittings should last the life of the truck and be very strong.

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i am not a big fan of the turn buckle type mounts just because of the tiny screw that holds them on.
in this case these have to be removed to install the hardtop.
once the soft top goes back on in the spring the owner has to be VERY careful not to strip the screw holes ...
i do like the looks and function of the factory soft top.

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the 8274 is next
off with the old wire cable and on with the Synth rope, cleaner, lighter, just as strong (unless running over sharp objects), can not get wire stuck in your fingers ... makes sense.
i can see it is time to loosen all the connections under the cover and add some AntiOx and tighten back down. rust is begining to build up.

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the original power wire was too short and the ends were ready to be replaced.
new cable was made up with proper ends, AntiOx the connections, labled and then shrink wrap over to further protect the connections

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new ground wire
new 12V positive to 24V ground
new starter wire
RHD side coming together
ground to block

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WTH was this for? eliminated
clean the original ends
AntiOx between each
SS bolts
grind frame clean of paint
good clean connections

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one ugly battery post
owner can get a better deal in the States than i can in Canada and the battery still holds a excellent charge, change out later

one nasty Ujoint replaced.
GB and paint the emergency brake handle

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rear seal the tranny cover
install with SS bolts into nutzerts
GB and paint the wiper arms
install the ARB air fitting
GB and paint the voltage regulator leaving the part number for later reference

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SS bolts and rubber seals to hold the air box to the fender
new filter
assembled

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the rear emblems were next
tape off
measure
drill
silicone the back well
GENTLY clamp into place
let dry and remove clamp
rock solid.

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heat control valve, i have no idea how heat ever got inside with the cable that was no where near having enough travel
made up a rubber spacer
installed
tested
full travel is back

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i felt the exhaust was too close to the heater lines and the firewall so i wanted a heat shield just to be safe
nutzerts installed
shield bent up
GB and painted
installed

the old boy is still with us ...

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you should clamp the lines to the throttle body and the govenor to be safe, if they ever do come off you end up with a run away engine ...
try it, it is a rush since you can not shut the engine down.
i also replaced the clear lines with heavy wall fuel line.
replaced the solid line with a flex, no more chance of breakage and dumping all the engine oil in seconds while driving down the highway.

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we needed a location for the windshield washer bottle
this is what i came up with ...

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someone was complaining about the headlight system on Toyota Land Cruisers?
they are a PITA with their alternating ground

we had issues with the switch so murotic acid to the rescue ... works REAL well for cleaning contacts
as you can see this switch has been played with in the past

the fuse box is corroded as well ...

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random pics
winch, all wires loosened off, cleaned, AntiOx and reattached
new 24V washer motor, the previous shop had installed a 12V that wasn't working at this time.
had to ream the hole out slightly but fits like a glove.

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