BJ42 refurbisment

[Dougal]

Any rework on galv is a complete PITA. But I don't see distortion being a problem with a cruiser style chassis. Aren't they all riveted together anyway?

There is always spray-galv and zinc electroplate for heat-sensitive panels. Not the ultimate in corrosion protection that hot-dip galv is, but still far better than any paint or powder coating and easier to re-work if necessary.

 

[crushers]

the older 40s are rivited, correct.
this one is being reworked with welded inner channel.

i agree, full galv would be the best in rust prevention. i have seen the results of this being done to a 45 frame and wasn't impressed. for me, pass.

others can do as they wish.

 

[tmarx]

I did a full galv on my 42 chassis icluding a few bits and bobs. I had heard about possible warpage but the galvanizing Co had modern huge dip tanks with a known reputation so I took a calculated risk. I suspect that in cases where warpage does occur it is not from the heat per se but rather the heat and the treatment the chassis receives when hot - if you bang it in the takns etc or when taking it out then warpage could be a strong possibillity even though the 40 seris very flexy by nature - in my case I had no warpage at all.

The only real negatives are the finish and the process to paint afterwards - if you want a factory finish then don't galv cos it leaves a real rough finish that is almost impossible to flat/smooth. However that dissapointment lasts only as long as it takes me to spot some new rust on another chassis VS my prestine albeit non-smooth chassis. Having to tap/die all the welded nuts & bolts and open the spring hangers etc was a PITA

2c



Wayne, does Gozzard make RHD tubs also ?

 

[crushers]

Mike has an aversion to RHD vehicles
but
I am sure if there was enough interest he would make the mold. curious, wouldn't it be just the dash face that would be the issue?

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Mike has an aversion to RHD vehicles
but
I am sure if there was enough interest he would make the mold. curious, wouldn't it be just the dash face that would be the issue?

Given his fairly accurate detailing, the firewall too - mounting the pedal box, clutch, and brake master. And fenders are a bit different LHD/RHD...

 

[crushers]

then he would need a RHD firewall to build from and 5 guaranteed sales

 

[crushers]

frame back from sand blasting and ready to be cut to proper length and fitted together ...

 

[crushers]

now, go open the 1966 Toyota manual on how to repair frame cracks ... these are like big ass cracks

 

[crushers]

......

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Wayne,

on the topic of chassis finishes, how would you (or anyone else who cares to comment) compare POR15 to powder coating, or Eastwood's 2K ceramic chassis black?

 

[crushers]

laying out the reinforcements ...
the round is for where the 2 inner channels come together, there is a factory 3" hole in the frame. this will be welded around the edge to give reinforcement to that joint.

 

[crushers]

Henry,
i dislike any type of finish on a frame that you can not touch up, POR15 would be my last choice.
when it comes to paint then you need to contact a guy named Brad Taylor in Saskatoon, he knows his paint.
i have the coatings i like, i like red oxide primer paint. then a good cover color.

i will let someone else comment on Eastwoods ...

 

[crushers]

measure
measure
mark
measure
cut

 

[crushers]

positioning the lights for the addition of tabs ...

 

[crushers]

front bumper main beam modifications
hitch
clevis retainers

we were going to use the ones off the old back bumper but by the time we cut them off there wasn't enough meat to work with so new went on ...

 

[crushers]

next cut the main frame
<and keep an eye on the wooden boards covering the pit area>
test fitting ...

 

[crushers]

then it is on to the inner frame
the old pieces used to measure and lay out the replacements ...

on the rear we are installing a hitch, the side supports will further strengthen the section of the weld
it will be angle weld
inner reinforcement using the angle pieces
then the hitch support will cover both sides of the well

i have no doubt the repair will outlast the rest of the truck.

 

[Dougal]

I did a full galv on my 42 chassis icluding a few bits and bobs. I had heard about possible warpage but the galvanizing Co had modern huge dip tanks with a known reputation so I took a calculated risk. I suspect that in cases where warpage does occur it is not from the heat per se but rather the heat and the treatment the chassis receives when hot - if you bang it in the takns etc or when taking it out then warpage could be a strong possibillity even though the 40 seris very flexy by nature - in my case I had no warpage at all.

The only real negatives are the finish and the process to paint afterwards - if you want a factory finish then don't galv cos it leaves a real rough finish that is almost impossible to flat/smooth. However that dissapointment lasts only as long as it takes me to spot some new rust on another chassis VS my prestine albeit non-smooth chassis. Having to tap/die all the welded nuts & bolts and open the spring hangers etc was a PITA

2c

Don't paint galvanised steel. It can't work as anodic protection if the sacrificial surface is covered with paint.

 

[lostmarbles]

Don't paint galvanised steel. It can't work as anodic protection if the sacrificial surface is covered with paint.

I think that's a common misunderstanding Dougal.

You're thinking as though the whole chassis in immersed in electrolyte. It never will be. Damp or wet patches will always affect only limited areas and for varying durations.

A chassis on a vehicle is not at all like a hull of a ship ... in other words.

Those companies that sell electronic rust prevention systems for motor vehicles take advantage of this common misconception to rip people off.

The electrolytic action is limited to the vicinity of the "damp stone-chip" (or whatever paint damage were talking about).

And the thick zinc coating thats there (from hot-dipping) still represents fabulous protection (at the site of the stone chip) IMO.

 

[Dougal]

I think that's a common misunderstanding Dougal.

You're thinking as though the whole chassis in immersed in electrolyte. It never will be. Damp or wet patches will always affect only limited areas and for varying durations.

A chassis on a vehicle is not at all like a hull of a ship ... in other words.

Those companies that sell electronic rust prevention systems for motor vehicles take advantage of this common misconception to rip people off.

The electrolytic action is limited to the vicinity of the "damp stone-chip" (or whatever paint damage were talking about).

And the thick zinc coating thats there (from hot-dipping) still represents fabulous protection (at the site of the stone chip) IMO.

It's not the same situation as an immersed ship hull, but there still needs to be enough exposed sacrificial zinc around any exposed metal (scratch, wear etc) to protect the exposed metal. If you wear through a patch of galv to the base metal and you only have one hairline of exposed zinc between the exposed area and paint, then your exposed steel will rust.
For a stone-chip it'll likely still be enough protection. But for gouges, deep scratches and wear areas it's not going to be enough.

I agree that electronic rust protection for items not submerged (i.e. vehicles) is BS. But for items partially surbmerged (wharfs etc) it works.