What do you mean by "swapping" birfields? Do you mean putting the driver's side on the passenger and vice versa? You can't do that....look under your truck and you'll see the front differential is offset...the axle one one side is longer than the other. Why would you want to swap these anyway?atijerino said:When swapping the birfields around do you also need to swap the hubs along with the birfields? or do the hubs stay on their corresponding sides?
Agreed, the joint itself is the same, the axle shafts are different lengths. I cannot comment on the notion that swapping the joints would gain anything. However, the spindles are otherwise identical on both sides.atijerino said:The birfields are the same identical part for the DS and for the PS
If you are going to disassemble the birf from the axle shaft as part of a repack (some people do not) then it is no more added work to swap them, you just reassemble with the birfs on opposite sides,Beast II said:How difficult is this to do once everything is out ?
FWIW, I think the way they do it is put the axle shaft down the pipe with the birf bell resting on the pipe. Then drop the pipe and birf together onto a hard surface and the axle shaft comes loose. If you use a little judgement and common sense, I doubt you'd bugger it up much, if at all.SteveH said:Doesn't dropping the shaft down a steel pipe risk scarring the machined seal surface on the axle shaft as it slides down the pipe?
Swapping sides does not seem to guarantee that your clicking will go away. From my limited experience, if the components inside of the bell of the birfield are worn down enough, any amount of swapping won't work because of the wear inside.SteveH said:I bought my '95 with 75K on it, and the birfields were clicking. I immediately checked the knuckles (which were full) and at 92K, repacked everything.
The birfields have clicked (on full lock turns accelerating from a stop in sand) ever since. Fast-forward to this past weekend. At 148K, I serviced the front end again and swapped the birfields and repacked/replaced everything. Everything inside looked great - no visible wear on any birfield parts, but there was some rotational play in the birfields that wasn't there at 92K. I swapped them, with new clips, and put it all back together. They still click, but it sounds a little different.
To remove the birfs, I just tapped the inner race with a brass hammer to separate the joints (with the axle shaft in a vise, the way Toyota recommends) and it came apart easily. Doesn't dropping the shaft down a steel pipe risk scarring the machined seal surface on the axle shaft as it slides down the pipe?
Anyway, my birfield left-right swap didn't get me much. YMMV.