Bilstein 6112/5160 Installed (22 Viewers)

[HustleHard]

When you say, "Removed the shock top bolt, loosened the bottom shock bolt" - did you remove 4 top shock bolts (not the center one) and completely remove the bottom shock bolt? You definitely need to loosen the lower control arm nuts that they use for alignment to get enough droop. But the bottom shock bolt should obviously be completely removed. Also, there is a decent chance you will pull the CV joint out a bit if you push down a lot on the drooping LCA. You have to push up on the UCA if its in your way as well of course - both at the same time. I sat on the pry bar to free up my hands.

- if you still can't get it and have cheapo spring compressors like the harbor freight ones, you could compress the spring a little bit in place to shorten the assembly

I'm using this method that I used for my 4runner OME Install - no spring compressor - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum

Bottom bolt never got completely removed because there was still a bunch of tension on the bolt. I held the cv up via the brake rotor with a jack stand to keep it intact.

 

[Nola622]

put a floor jack under the bottom shock mount to take the tension out and completely remove the bottom shock bolt. Then release the floor jack enough to let it droop

(don't get your drift stuck in there..)

 

[TeCKis300]

Not really. The car has been in CO all it's life, shouldn't be an issue. Maybe i'll try banging on those bolts to try to clean them out. I'm going to try again in a few hours and put the whole front up on jack stands to see if that helps for some reason

I'm an @OTRAMM video junkie. This tutorial may help.

 

[HustleHard]

put a floor jack under the bottom shock mount to take the tension out and completely remove the bottom shock bolt. Then release the floor jack enough to let it droop

(don't get your drift stuck in there..)

When I was sitting on the crowbar trying to crank down the LCA, the coil still had tension on it and the shock was barely out of the top mount hole, so i figured there was something else acting up. Thanks for the suggestions, I'll try them in a few hours. Let me know if you think of anything else that might help

 

[bloc]

If you have the LCA pivot bolts completely loose and the arm isn't dangling down I bet all of that is rusted solid.

 

[Nola622]

I'll bet it drops enough when the lower shock bolt is removed. The bottom of the shock has downward play once its not bolted in, which buys you room up top to clear the 4 studs to remove the top.

(I'm not an expert by any means, but I have done this work in the last 72 hours)

 

[bloc]

I tried R&R the struts to install the OE spacer with the LCA bushing bolts still tight in an attempt to preserve the alignment. I am not a lightweight person and there was no way that arm was going down far enough to clear the upper bolts, whether the lower was installed or not. This is with about a 4’ cheater pipe. The LCA bushings are just too large and need too much twisting to allow the strut to come out.

If OPs LCA pivot hardware is rusted in place this is basically the same thing.

 

[HustleHard]

Nola was spot on. I thought because there was still tension on the coils and the shock that popping out the bolt wouldn't matter but the minute I knocked it out everything dropped out. Passenger side took about an hour, driver side took about 30 minutes. Had to remove one of the sway bar links for the passenger side and that was the biggest pain getting that back together. Best trick was to do it on the ground. Driver side we didn't pull it so it was a lot quicker. Went around the neighborhood and hit the usual speed bumps at 25 mph like I normally do and the truck smooths them out 100%. Bloc you should definitely pick this stuff up. Granted I haven't put in the rears yet, but I'm really stoked for the front. I'm fully stock and it definitely doesn't feel bouncy at all. Should be doing the rears tomorrow, and I'll update then. Let me know if you guys have any questions

 

[FerrisBueller]

I would be very interested in seeing pictures pointing out the most problematic areas that you encountered. I've always liked to do my own wrenching, but I've never done a suspension. I want to do this one myself, and some pics would help me see what to look out for.

 

[bloc]

If it’s not too much trouble.. is it possible to measure the extended length of the front and rear shocks? Something easy to identify like maybe the top of the coil bucket to the lowe shock bolt on the front, and upper throat to lower bolt on the rear. I’m curious how much more these extend than stock. Sorry I didn’t think of this while they were on the bench. Front should be easy.. rear may be more difficult.

I want to see before/after articulation before I pull the trigger on this. I just can’t get past the spring rate without evidence it doesn’t harm the qualities I like.
But, it does seem like a great system, and I’m excited bilstein is giving us an option. I’ve always liked their stuff and it has been on quite a few of my past vehicles.

 

[HustleHard]

I would be very interested in seeing pictures pointing out the most problematic areas that you encountered. I've always liked to do my own wrenching, but I've never done a suspension. I want to do this one myself, and some pics would help me see what to look out for.

Here's a link to the approach I used: OME Install - no spring compressor - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum

So the method I used to to avoid having to have my coilovers assembled as follows:
Open KDSS valves 3 turns
Loosen lug nuts
Jack up front end and put on jack stands
Remove wheel
Remove top bolt of the shock
Remove nut from the bottom bolt of the shock
Put a jack under the LCA by the ball joint and remove the 2 bolts under the hub
Support the hub with either a 2x4 or ratchet strap. Take time to get this set up, otherwise you can pull the CV out of place.
Lower the jack to lower the LCA from the assembly
Mark your LCA alignment tabs
Loosen you LCA to Frame bolts
Hit the bottom shock bolt all the way out and the LCA will drop, as will the shock and coil
Takes a bit of finagling to get the new stuff in. A person to help is critical. 1 person to hold the shock and coil in place while the other cranks down on the LCA so you can seat the bottom of the shock. Another thing that helped a bit if it feels like to much monkeying around is to put the jack under the spring, jack it up enough that you can put the top nut on the threads to hold it in the top hat, then you're just fighting to get the bottom in. Once that's in and you jack everything up, undo the top nut bolt and add the bushing and washer.
Once the bottom in seated, don't bother trying to put the bolt in
Jack the LCA up till you have enough thread to unscrew the top screw and correctly put the bushing and washer and nut on the top of the shock. Tighten
Once the top is locked in, jack/lower the LCA to be able to fit the bolt through the bottom shock. It takes a little wiggling but it's pretty easy. Hand tighten nut.
Once that's all locked in, jack up the LCA to connect the 2 bolts under the hub assembly. This is another 2 person job. One crouched over the hub assembly guiding and the other jacking it up.
Attach bolts.
Check your alignment tabs and adjust and lightly tighten to hold them in place.
Put wheel on, lower to ground.
Torque Bottom Shock nut, top shock nut, LCA alignment nuts.
Head to the other side

 

[tpetriep]

Pretty much any place that slings Bilstein, Googling the part number returns many places: 4WP, Shock Warehouse, AutoAnything.

Front struts/coils: 47-273146 $732
RR Shock: 25-285529 $210
LR: Shock: 25-291810 $210
Rear Coils: 53-292018 $193

I just ordered this for my LC. I think I’m going to do 1.4“ in the front and 1” in the back. Are the rear coils required regardless of total height adjustment?

 

[CharlieS]

I just ordered this for my LC. I think I’m going to do 1.4“ in the front and 1” in the back. Are the rear coils required regardless of total height adjustment?

Rear coils are what adjusts the ride height, not the shocks.

 

[HustleHard]

Got the rears installed Thursday and have been driving around with the whole set up. Got to say I'm extremely impressed. It smooths out bumps really nicely and it's harsh at all, considering I'm at stock weight. I was worried the front and rear coils would be too much since they're higher coil rates but they're perfect. Only funky thing is i get it to perch #5 (which should be 2.6" lift) and I only gained 2". But overall super happy with the new Bilsteins

 

[M1911]

Did you install aftermarket upper control arms?

 

[rusty87]

Let’s see some pictures!

 

[nolamule]

Yes...prove it!

Let’s see some pictures!

 

[HustleHard]

Here it is post lift and after settling. I've got some highway tires that came with the car, so those will be the next upgrade come ski season

 

[Bomar]

@HustleHard are you still using OEM UCAs?

Any alignment issues.

 

[HustleHard]

@HustleHard are you still using OEM UCAs?

Any alignment issues.

Still using OEM UCAs, haven't had a chance to get an alignment yet since all the off road shops around here are booking out through August. It definitely needs one, I'm going to have to go to a Discount Tire or Midas to get it straightened out