Builds Billy's excellent FJ73-12HT - resto-modded - n that

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So alot of the same thing, paint stripper, cut some minor rust, peel back some layers, weld some patches, bit of rust converter.
This was done in bits over 6-8 weeks with an etch primer applied after each session to keep them from flashing over with rust.
I cut the back doors down a while ago. I have prepped them and will use them I think? I may make a tube style swing out gate to take my spare wheel with the bottom 1/4 enclosed to cover the rear drawers? ATM its the 2 original doors.

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This is the passenger door I got a while ago from he wreckers.

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Sand, clean with some dewaxer and spray with a 2 pak primer. I bought a new gravity feed gun with a 2mm needle....what a difference.
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Not so much luck with the drivers door, but beggars can't be choosers, I looked at about 6 doors before this one. The PO sandblasted it but never got round to priming it, although it was under cover it still got covered in surface rust, only a couple of rust patches needed. I also have to patch some holes from a dodgy mirror install and a acid? spill.

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The surface rust was mainly around the edge and frame of the door so I sanded it back to bare metal (it had little paint).
I drilled the rust spot and mirror holes with a step drill till I got a desired diameter that would take 3 small patches I could tack in place.
You can see the 3 holes in the face of the door.

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I took my time welding, working between the patches careful not to warp the skin of the door.

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The 2 other rust spots were on the hinge side and bottom of the door.

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At this point I cleaned the internal joints and cavities and brushed some rust converter over the bare steel where rust was still present.
 
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After the rust converter has done its job I always give it a light sand again and clean with dewaxer. At this point I ran out of daylight so I sealed it over with a sacrificial etch primer till I can work on it again.

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I was unsure on the windscreen surround because it was already painted so i decided to strip it anyway.
I am glad I did it looks like it was sandblasted and left too long before painting?

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I'm not sure but it looks like little rust spots bleeding through from the base coat?

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Also found a hole that had been bogged and a little rust in the base, so I again drilled it out and put a weld patch in.(bigger hole)

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Thanks TLC. Haven't stopped for a couple of weekends which helps move things along. The temperatures are great here atm. 22 deg c in the evenings i even did some night shift in the shed.
I finished stripping the windscreen back to bare metal and prepped it with dewaxer/cleaner.

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Then turned back onto the drivers door. I cut the rust away but wanted to leave the factory punch marks for strength. Odd shape but hey.

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I pried the outer skin apart from the inner panel enough to saturate it all with rust converter then hit it with the wire wheel again and weld through primer then closed it back up.

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fitted the 2 small pieces to the under side of the door then tacked them in.

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The smaller hole kept getting bigger with blowouts so i ended up making a larger patch.:mad:

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worked my way into the internal corners with a scrape, sand and clean. Then I sprayed it all with etch primer.

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Bit more sanding and dewaxer, then the internals got some 2 pak primer

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Wow - that's a lot of nice work !
 
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I also replaced the radiator surround.

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That's all the big panels done except the bonnet which is at the panel shop and in good nick.
The rest of the painting for me are small brackets and bibs and bobs so I am happy to see the end of the panel beating.
 
Before I bolt the body down and hang the doors, screen etc that I just painted I thought I would strip the motor down.

I have enlisted the help of a mate of a mate to help guide me through the various basic engine maintenance and reassembly. Not to rebuild it, just a refurb. I thought it would be better to be taught the basics and assemble what we can until it reaches a point where a diesel specialist can take over.

Before moving forward I thought I would recap my journey so far.

 
So I lifted the body off once more to give easier access to the motor, some hard lines and the handbrake cable.

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I made up a puller out of some old bar at work to remove the front crankshaft pulley.

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Then extended the thread on a 5/8unf bolt.

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So we stripped the obvious stuff that I could clean up, paint or replace. Not sure if all the names are correct, but they go something like this.
front and rear crankshaft seals
rear crank retainer housing gasket
exhaust manifold gasket set
turbo return pipe gasket
valve cover gasket
side cover gaskets
water pump to block gasket
water pump to housing gasket
thermostat upper gasket
thermostat lower gasket
exhaust pipe to manifold
belt set
clutch fork boot

That's stage 1 to get us moving, then there's new water pump, pipes and what ever else. I have yet to receive my first order...it is already 3-4 days over due.

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Also had a tidy up of some racks and sorted out parts I packed into boxes as I was disassembling over last couple of years.

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so my ordered parts didn't turn up till Yesterday (15 days!) and now Al has gone way up North deep sea fishing for a week or so. I have heaps to do but I really wanted to get the gearbox back in cause it looks like I'm going backwards ATM.
The spraybooth seems to be getting further and further away???:bang:
To me the down hill portion of this build will be when its painted and I'm fitting wiring looms, seats, dash, steering wheel, bar work. I don't expect it to be any easier just the jobs will be more permanent and visually look like I'm getting somewhere, also we are coming into our winter so the maintenance around the property will slow down which will free my time up too.

So i was unsure on the bellhousing to motor plate as it is off an automatic and has a plastic inspection/maintenance flap that clips in to the hole at the bottom. The inspection hole is not punched out on the manual transmission. I asked the question in the diesel section and was told I can use the plate but nobody got back to me on whether I should replace the plastic flap with something sturdier.

I cleaned it up and hit it with some 2pac and fitted a steel access panel anyways just in case.

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I ran some silicone on the inside of the flap and let it cure to form a seal.

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Then tapped a 4mm thread into the plate so it becomes removable.

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