Ohhh I know, the number of thin cutting discs I've exploded (especially with my Dremel) trying to cut an arc (or not)! 
Bikersmurf’s 40
- Thread starter stevebradford
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Yeah corners bad. 
When it really gets sporty, is when the disk has a visible crack, but it's your last one so you use it anyway, knowing full well half of it is going to hit you in the face.
Proper safety squint is recommended.
When it really gets sporty, is when the disk has a visible crack, but it's your last one so you use it anyway, knowing full well half of it is going to hit you in the face.
Proper safety squint is recommended.
Been working on the P/S adjuster.
I’ve converted the pump mount so that it has a fixed bolt (rather than a slot) and that bracket has less offset. Then I cut down another bracket to have a slot… and I’m hoping the offset will make it line up with the A/C bracket.
I’m planning to have a tensioner to make adjustment possible. The pump is in a very awkward spot to reach. To put it in perspective, there are two ways to get the pump where it’s mounted:
1) Remove the upper rad hose and squeeze it down past the fan and shroud. It works with the rad loose and floating around, at least for now.
2) Jack up the front and let the axle droop. The axle drooping creates enough extra clearance to fit it up to its mounting position.
I’ve since painted the pump and brackets… but you’ll have to wait to see pictures of them. They still look the same, only cleaner, and blacker.
I’ve converted the pump mount so that it has a fixed bolt (rather than a slot) and that bracket has less offset. Then I cut down another bracket to have a slot… and I’m hoping the offset will make it line up with the A/C bracket.
I’m planning to have a tensioner to make adjustment possible. The pump is in a very awkward spot to reach. To put it in perspective, there are two ways to get the pump where it’s mounted:
1) Remove the upper rad hose and squeeze it down past the fan and shroud. It works with the rad loose and floating around, at least for now.
2) Jack up the front and let the axle droop. The axle drooping creates enough extra clearance to fit it up to its mounting position.
I’ve since painted the pump and brackets… but you’ll have to wait to see pictures of them. They still look the same, only cleaner, and blacker.
Once I finish mounting the pump (again), I’ll be able to complete the brackets and make it work. The threaded adjuster should make it possible to have enough tension to avoid belt slip. There’s 180* of belt wrap, but inadequate tension would be a problem.
New pump assembled and tensioner almost complete.
I thought this was kinda interesting. The difference between Canadian steel and weld.
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Scab plates and crush tubes welded in. 
Also picked up the grade 8 hardware today. One small weld on the adjuster, assembly, flush the system, and bleeding.
Also picked up the grade 8 hardware today. One small weld on the adjuster, assembly, flush the system, and bleeding.
Made very little progress today. Noticed a damp spot in the footwell behind the drivers seat in our Prius, and dug in deeper. Turns out there was almost an inch of water in the driver’s side footwells. Here’s what was left after pulling out the underpad, underlay, and carpet.
Haven’t determined the source… but google has given me some good leads. But that killed most of the time I had today. Unfortunately, this isn’t the first time I’ve stripped it down to the floor boards.
But did reach a milestone:
Bolted in with grade 8 hardware and reconnected the steering shaft. I’ve not used the nylock nuts yet… saving them till absolutely everything has been assembled and tested. The bolts are a good snug fit in all the holes. They can’t easily be pushed in by hand, but can easily be tapped in with a hammer.
Haven’t determined the source… but google has given me some good leads. But that killed most of the time I had today. Unfortunately, this isn’t the first time I’ve stripped it down to the floor boards.
But did reach a milestone:
Bolted in with grade 8 hardware and reconnected the steering shaft. I’ve not used the nylock nuts yet… saving them till absolutely everything has been assembled and tested. The bolts are a good snug fit in all the holes. They can’t easily be pushed in by hand, but can easily be tapped in with a hammer.
I’ve done two power steering box installs. I have no issue with Nylock nuts, but I’d use a good Gr8 lock washerBolted in with grade 8 hardware and reconnected the steering shaft. I’ve not used the nylock nuts yet… saving them till absolutely everything has been assembled and tested. The bolts are a good snug fit in all the holes. They can’t easily be pushed in by hand, but can easily be tapped in with a hammer.
under that nut when you do final assembly. There are shoulder nuts that are slightly oblong that self lock specifically designed for frames. You never want to ever loosen these nuts and the amount of torque stress over the life of the truck from steering is incalculable. So I’d ditch the Nylocks and go with something that you can torque to factory specs and forget. My BJ74 came to me because of this exact issue - if he’d torqued and sleeved the steering box properly he’d never of rolled it, and wouldn’t have had to sell it cheap.
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
Made very little progress today. Noticed a damp spot in the footwell behind the drivers seat in our Prius, and dug in deeper. Turns out there was almost an inch of water in the driver’s side footwells. Here’s what was left after pulling out the underpad, underlay, and carpet.
View attachment 2867551View attachment 2867552
Haven’t determined the source… but google has given me some good leads. But that killed most of the time I had today. Unfortunately, this isn’t the first time I’ve stripped it down to the floor boards.
But did reach a milestone:View attachment 2867556
Bolted in with grade 8 hardware and reconnected the steering shaft. I’ve not used the nylock nuts yet… saving them till absolutely everything has been assembled and tested. The bolts are a good snug fit in all the holes. They can’t easily be pushed in by hand, but can easily be tapped in with a hammer.
Does your prius have a sunroof? Check that all the drains are working. Just google and you'll find pictures reference of where the drains go. Just a matter of trickling water from a garden hose into the trough under the sunroof (open it first). Don't blow high pressure air into them to free blockage, as it can pop hose fittings apart and make your leak even worse, lol. Usually it's fir needles etc that block the drain entrance right at the sunroof.
When my carpets get that wet (always sunroof issues for me), I don't go to the effort of removing. I just use a wed/dry vacuum to suck as much moisture out as I can. Then I setup a dehumidifier in the car (and heater if it's cold out). Drys the car out in a couple nights and saves a lot of work
I’d never considered that there were different grades of lock washers. They’ll be an extra layer of safety after I go back and pick them up.
No sunroof… and no leaks when I ran the garden hose into the cowl intake. Both drains were running clear despite this:
It’s starting to rain now… so we’ll see what happens.
I’ll keep the shop vac and dehumidifier in mind for my mother-in-law’s car… it’s her sunroof. I’m not sure what’s up with it, haven’t looked. She was going to have Nissan check it out while it was in for a service… but apparently they don’t do leaks. They told her she’d need to take it to a body shop. She was going to ask them to check it anyway… but that’s her fight.
Seams and grommets are the next most likely source of leaks. The spare tire well was dry, so it couldn’t be the hatch seal…
Anything is possible.
Since I don’t have a sunroof or other known source of leaks, pulling the carpet should help to determine where it’s coming from. Since it was likely a gallon or more, I’d like to figure out the source.
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Tensioner working, and both belts tensioned. The P/S tensioner made tensioning that belt dead simple… soooo much easier than trying to lift it and tighten. The A/C (air) compressor was a PITA in comparison.
Not the prettiest welds… something about holding a flashlight in one hand and a mig gun in the other makes prize winning welds a challenge. After a little grinding they’ll look great.
Not the prettiest welds… something about holding a flashlight in one hand and a mig gun in the other makes prize winning welds a challenge. After a little grinding they’ll look great.
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
Nice work! Glad you're keeping up the momentum on that project.
If you have a headlamp it can help free up your hands. There are some really bright ones with adjustable focus etc. out there now.
If you have a headlamp it can help free up your hands. There are some really bright ones with adjustable focus etc. out there now.
Very true… great idea… although it’ll be tricky to use it with the face shield.
Before I had auto darkening helmets, I sometimes used a 100w halogen flood light to illuminate the area so I could see it through the dark visor.
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
Heh, thought of that after writing it, lol. Anyhow, for general car work headlamps are dang handy. I still use an old trouble light like this for general lighting (with led bulb so I don't break it or burn myself)
Why P/S is a must… this AM… as most others:
Many years, many tests, almost as many specialists and not even a diagnosis… much less a treatment. Yes it’s swollen. Just another F’d up day. Worst thing I did was to wash some dishes.
And a different day:
Many years, many tests, almost as many specialists and not even a diagnosis… much less a treatment. Yes it’s swollen. Just another F’d up day. Worst thing I did was to wash some dishes.
And a different day:
Found it. I’m hoping this is the only spot… it lines up perfectly with where the water is coming through.
Top left corner at the side of the hatch. Essentially a leak in the middle of the gutter.
Edit:
Somehow it was also wicking under the hatch weatherstripping. A combination of caulking in the joint for the weatherstripping and clear paintable (self leveling) sealer over the above seam all the way to the weatherstripping has got it water tight.
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And the 40 power steering is working again.
All that’s left:
Reinstall 2nd rad mount and bolt it in
Install shock towers x2
Test ‘drive’
Move/remove steering stabilizer
Centre steering wheel
Lock washers, nuts, & cotter pins
Whatever other little things I’m forgetting that will take an extra 3 hours.
All that’s left:
Reinstall 2nd rad mount and bolt it in
Install shock towers x2
Test ‘drive’
Move/remove steering stabilizer
Centre steering wheel
Lock washers, nuts, & cotter pins
Whatever other little things I’m forgetting that will take an extra 3 hours.
Rad is mounted. Second brace needs to secured, but it’ll likely be being secured to the shock tower which isn’t there yet.And the 40 power steering is working again.
All that’s left:
Reinstall 2nd rad mount and bolt it in
Install shock towers x2
Test ‘drive’
Move/remove steering stabilizer
Centre steering wheel
Lock washers, nuts, & cotter pins
Whatever other little things I’m forgetting that will take an extra 3 hours.
Front Brake line is bent into shape, attached to the master cylinder, and just need a couple final tweaks and to be attached to the flex line. Then they’ll need to be bled.
Sub zero temperatures and snow sure don’t help the momentum. Working under the truck in the snow sucks. Having to break parts free after they freeze to the fender is a pain.