Ford made them removable on 1-ton trucks longer than you've been wheeling, and they still make them. Why weld them when you can remove them with two bolts.
Bikersmurf’s 40 (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter stevebradford
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I considered welding them on, but in this position I’d have to remove the steering box, air compressor, and a bunch of other things to have the access needed to weld them on.
Vs.
Bolted on requires drilling two holes, screw around for 20 minutes with a box end wrench & some tape, and put in a couple bolts. There is an access hole on the inside of the frame, it’s just 6-8” away and I’ll be working blind to get the nut to the correct place. I could possibly drill access holes through the inside scab plate, but as too tall pointed out, they’re likely never coming out so it’s not worth the trouble.
In the end, the mount is secured, and time wise I’ll come out ahead by bolting them on. Having angled the corner to clear the box will increase the load around that area, but the frame has a 1/4” scab plate welded on there so it’ll more than make up for the extra pressure there.
I put a trailer hitch on swmbo's crv years ago, and the kit came with these little spring wire gizmos that you could thread a bolt into then you had a foot long wire tail you could poke in a blind hole and use the wire tail to pull the bolt through. Freaking handy. I kept them and I've used them a bunch of times since.
I bolted my shock towers on the front of my 40 too. Thought I might change my mind at some point. Happens.
Actually managed to find the wire things I was talking about.
www.actiontrucks.com
I bolted my shock towers on the front of my 40 too. Thought I might change my mind at some point. Happens.
Actually managed to find the wire things I was talking about.
Fish Wire for 1/2in. Diameter Bolts | #CUR58400 | Action Car and Truck Accessories™
With any towing setup, there is always the need for a few additional items. Though your trailer hitch and ball mount may be tough enough to haul that heavy load, they cannot properly tow without a few supporting players. Towing accessories are a practical addition to your rig that add the...
Clever… I could likely do something similar with mig wire (being it’s handy).I put a trailer hitch on swmbo's crv years ago, and the kit came with these little spring wire gizmos that you could thread a bolt into then you had a foot long wire tail you could poke in a blind hole and use the wire tail to pull the bolt through. Freaking handy. I kept them and I've used them a bunch of times since.
I bolted my shock towers on the front of my 40 too. Thought I might change my mind at some point. Happens.
Actually managed to find the wire things I was talking about.
Fish Wire for 1/2in. Diameter Bolts | #CUR58400 | Action Car and Truck Accessories™
With any towing setup, there is always the need for a few additional items. Though your trailer hitch and ball mount may be tough enough to haul that heavy load, they cannot properly tow without a few supporting players. Towing accessories are a practical addition to your rig that add the...
I’ll give that a shot if tacking a piece of bar stock onto it doesn’t work.
At the moment, the question is do I weld the nuts onto a backing plate and then a rod to position them… or just use two rods/bars?
Just drill/tap those holes to whatever those bolts are, M12 or something. Done. No pissing around trying to get nuts or captive nuts in there.
That ship has sailed. I’ve already drilled it out to 1/2”. Easiest route now is just to use the nuts and call it a day.
If I had a tap that would have been the way to go. The passenger side is easy. Drivers said is a bit more of a challenge, but I’ll get it done.
I also bolted mine on with some big ass “whatever” fit in the hole.
I was more worried about having to cut them off if reassembly revealed that my fu was off and somehow something didn’t fit back on troopy.
So ya, everything went back on and the towers are bolted to the chassis.
Trogdor (for those that remember) had the same towers attached the same way… nonissue as far as use/abuse.
Managed to fit a spanner inside the chassis to zip it all up. Triple jointed wrists helps, but doable.
Cheers
Crusty
I was more worried about having to cut them off if reassembly revealed that my fu was off and somehow something didn’t fit back on troopy.
So ya, everything went back on and the towers are bolted to the chassis.
Trogdor (for those that remember) had the same towers attached the same way… nonissue as far as use/abuse.
Managed to fit a spanner inside the chassis to zip it all up. Triple jointed wrists helps, but doable.
Cheers
Crusty
The challenge is that I can’t see to reach inside the frame and see the outside at the same time. For extra strength I’m leaning towards tacking them onto backing plates and then using a bar to slide them into position. The backing plate would distribute the forces over more area than just using the flanged nuts they came with. Problem overkill, but the drivers side is only 1/8” thick.
The hard side is done… 
After a couple other strategies, I ran a scrap of mig wire through the top hole in the frame, then the top hole, and tied it to a small scrap of wood to prevent the wire from being pulled out. I then pulled the bar through to the inside of the frame. I used a screw driver to help centre it over the bolt holes. I was then able to put a bolt in through the lower hole. Once it was snugged down a bit, I cut the mig wire and threaded in the top bolt. Victory!
The passenger side should be way easier since there is a hole through the inner frame rail inline with the mount.
After a couple other strategies, I ran a scrap of mig wire through the top hole in the frame, then the top hole, and tied it to a small scrap of wood to prevent the wire from being pulled out. I then pulled the bar through to the inside of the frame. I used a screw driver to help centre it over the bolt holes. I was then able to put a bolt in through the lower hole. Once it was snugged down a bit, I cut the mig wire and threaded in the top bolt. Victory!
The passenger side should be way easier since there is a hole through the inner frame rail inline with the mount.
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
Nice work man. Work smart, not hard as they say. Although this was a bit of both.
And a trip to the grocery store.
BTW, I’ve now got some extended shock towers up for grabs of anyone is interested. They mount to the frame using OEM mounting holes and the shock fits through the original inner fender opening.
Last edited:
Pics?
^^^ Best pic I have at the moment. I can get more later.
Last edited:
Seen in the wild…
Spare parts up for grabs…
Decent shape.
Minimal slop… pitman arm seal weeping.
Custom extended shock towers L&R front (fit rear shocks on front).
Saginaw dropped pitman arm (originally from YJ or something)
Decent shape.
Minimal slop… pitman arm seal weeping.
Custom extended shock towers L&R front (fit rear shocks on front).
Saginaw dropped pitman arm (originally from YJ or something)
Last edited:
Thoughts on these prices? I need to replace my left front TRE and for $36 it doesn’t feel like it’s worth messing around with a used one from the parts pile… and if I’m doing an alignment… probably should replace the right for $46… and maybe even the other right for $34.
Thoughts on a steering damper with Saginaw steering? General consensus seems to be they aren’t needed, but should I with 33x10.5s?
Have you tried Napa or anywhere local before donating to the bezos space program (made in China) 
Although, dealing with local can be a proper pain in the A55. “Island service” is its own animal.
Keep in mind, a set of OEM 555 tierod ends will run you nearly $200cad plus the ride for about any series.
YMMV
Cheers
Crusty
Although, dealing with local can be a proper pain in the A55. “Island service” is its own animal.
Keep in mind, a set of OEM 555 tierod ends will run you nearly $200cad plus the ride for about any series.
YMMV
Cheers
Crusty
Have you tried Napa or anywhere local before donating to the bezos space program (made in China)
Although, dealing with local can be a proper pain in the A55. “Island service” is its own animal.
Keep in mind, a set of OEM 555 tierod ends will run you nearly $200cad plus the ride for about any series.
YMMV
Cheers
Crusty
This was the last Beck Arnley TRE i bought from Lordco.
I’ll check availability from the local suppliers in the morning.
Have you tried Napa or anywhere local before donating to the bezos space program (made in China)
Although, dealing with local can be a proper pain in the A55. “Island service” is its own animal.
Keep in mind, a set of OEM 555 tierod ends will run you nearly $200cad plus the ride for about any series.
YMMV
Cheers
Crusty
Did you use a 60 series steering damper for your conversion? Do you recall which brand you bought?