Bikersmurf’s 40

[bikersmurf]

Before I pulled out the pins and tape to set the Toe in…

Before L 36.5”.

Before R 36.7”.

After L 37.6”.

After R 37.8”.

 

[bikersmurf]

I’m not sure if I want to go quite to 4.5” C-C shackle, but I had these on the shelf so I figured I’d run them as is before shortening them to 3.5”.

With the castor shims in place, castor is back to stock.

Before.

After.

Clearance to the shackles is still about 15”. So no big loss there.

I’ve wanted to go to longer shackles because the OEM ones were limiting wheel drop. These shackles net a 1” lift and should allow for more drop as well as more upward travel before hitting the bump stops.

Can’t wait to go for a spin.., but need to do an alignment first.

Christened my new tool…

 

[bikersmurf]

Checked the alignment… close enough that I’m not going to mess with it.

 

[bikersmurf]

Checked the ambulance toe in… not so fortunate. It was toed out about 4 mm. Adjusted it to 3 mm toe in and took it for a spin.

The alignment was decent before, but it sometimes wandered a bit. Now it tracks perfectly straight, the steering wheel is straight, and it practically follows the curves on the road. Considering it’s a 1997 “cube van” that weighs 5 tons, it handles really well. It was 1000x nicer to drive than the year old UhAul we rented… but that’s another story.

 

[bikersmurf]

Well.,. Insured the 40. Seemed fine around the block, but after a burn on the highway I started smelling hot brake pads. Limped it home and pulled off one of the callipers.

Started pulling pistons. The first piston that came loose looked great. The second not so good… and 3rd and 4th wouldn’t budge. So for $78/side they are gonna be cores.

 

[crustyBJ60]

Well.,. Insured the 40. Seemed fine around the block, but after a burn on the highway I started smelling hot brake pads. Limped it home and pulled off one of the callipers.

View attachment 3680931

Started pulling pistons. The first piston that came loose looked great. The second not so good… and 3rd and 4th wouldn’t budge. So for $78/side they are gonna be cores.

This is the time to upgrade to 4skinner callipers

 

[bikersmurf]

This is the time to upgrade to 4skinner callipers

4Runner?
I’ve already got Landcruiser ones on the way… maybe next time.

To be honest, when the calipers weren’t frozen, it would stop on a dime when I prushed the brake pedal down with my big toe. It would lock all 4 wheels when I jabbed the brake pedal with two fingers on dry pavement.

The 80 series booster and master make the 4 wheel disc brakes extremely powerful. I’ve had a trailer weighing 4000 lbs behind it and it has no problem stopping 8800 lbs without trailer brakes.

 

[bikersmurf]

Front callipers in…

Picked up rear callipers. For some reason, after 25 or so years, they were looking a little rough.

The reman units look so much healthier.

Next up: Rear rotors, Trail Gear studs & cone washers, new pads on all 4 corners, and re-bleed the brakes.
Once there are new rear pads, I’ll determine if the adjustable brake proportioning valve is working properly or if it also needs to be replaced.

 

[bikersmurf]

It occurred to me this morning that I should fix my parking/E-brake. I replaced the shoes in ‘91… adjusted many times… but hasn’t worked well in 15-20 years. I thought before reinventing the brake, perhaps I should have a go at fixing it.
It doesn’t leak any gear lube… . I already have decent spare E-brake drum with a Speedi Sleeve already installed.

Which brings me to the shoes… given the adjustment is probably maxed out, and the brake doesn’t hold on level ground, I don’t see any point to opening it up without a new set on hand.

Any recommendations on where to find E-brake shoes? Part of me wants to leave the seal alone… but it’s 25 years old. So best to replace it.

Turns out, I have a new seal in the box of the last pair of shoes I bought. P/N 46550-60011 x2

 

[Toshi38]

Have you checked mega zip?

 

[bikersmurf]

Have you checked mega zip?

I did... amayama had a much better price for shipping and I could get another Toyota part for our DD for $5 more with no aditional costs. The parts are ordered now and shoud be here at the end of this month or the beginning of next.

 

[cruiserpilot]

I’ve gone to looking at amayama first anymore. The cost in US dollars on megazip and shipping is much more expensive. Amayama can produce in Can $ and I find shipping more acceptable too.

 

[bikersmurf]

Bilstein Shock P/Ns for future order. Same Front and Rear.

B8 5125 - Suspension Shock Absorber
Part Number: 33-185606

Product Type: Suspension Shock Absorber

Series: B8 5125

Position: Front, Rear

Notes:
-Fits Vehicles With 0-2" Rear Lift
-Fits Vehicles With 4" Front Lift

MSRP: $156.60

Weight (lbs): 4.63

 

[bikersmurf]

I got tired of the listening to crickets…

What are people’s go to sources for sheet metal… and steel plate in the Greater Victoria area. Most of the places I used to buy steel have closed there doors.

Only place left I can think of is Metal Supermarket.

KMS sells some thin steel… for a steep price.

The time is coming that I’ll need to replace the floor under/around the driver’s seat. For ease of manufacturing I’m thinking 1/16”-1/8”. All the rear of the tub is 1/8”.

Thicker metal will make it easier to secure the front roll bar attachment points. For the 6-8 sqft of steel, the extra weight would be insignificant compared to the rest of the truck (4700 lbs).

 

[cruiserpilot]

Russel Metal in Nanaimo. I used 16 ga what’s called soft coat, it’s got an anti rust galvanized type
coating. You could go 14 ga for the 40 it’s what they came with, certainly strong enough for
mounting roll bars and seat brackets. Buy a full 4’x8’ sheet. Cheapest way to go. Cut out a bunch
of cardboard templates for each piece you need and do the math. Metal supermarket is rip for
prices. There has to be a metal wholesaler there. Looks like Russel Metal only have a shop in Nanaimo. No Victoria location.
Guarantee it’s cheaper to drive to a Nanaimo than buy a sheet at metal supermarket

 

[bikersmurf]

Russel Metal in Nanaimo. I used 16 ga what’s called soft coat, it’s got an anti rust galvanized type
coating. You could go 14 ga for the 40 it’s what they came with, certainly strong enough for
mounting roll bars and seat brackets. Buy a full 4’x8’ sheet. Cheapest way to go. Cut out a bunch
of cardboard templates for each piece you need and do the math. Metal supermarket is rip for
prices. There has to be a metal wholesaler there. Looks like Russel Metal only have a shop in Nanaimo. No Victoria location.
Guarantee it’s cheaper to drive to a Nanaimo than buy a sheet at metal supermarket

A couple times I’ve gone into metal Supermarket and bought some off cuts from the off cut pile (at Metal Supermarket) for $5… it would be hard to beat that price. Then I bought three “scraps” of 1/2” plate…probably less than a square foot… for about $37.
Not so great. I haven’t gone back after that.

Which brings me to my current quest. 14 Guage seems pretty light for floor pans that don’t have rib.

Has anyone bought from Island Plate and Steel sales?

Hardcore Metal Company?

 

[stevebradford]

To pass along my good fortune. I have access to small off cuts of stainless sheet. If you would like some small stuff for free let me know.

 

[cruiserpilot]

A couple times I’ve gone into metal Supermarket and bought some off cuts from the off cut pile (at Metal Supermarket) for $5… it would be hard to beat that price. Then I bought three “scraps” of 1/2” plate…probably less than a square foot… for about $37.
Not so great. I haven’t gone back after that.

Which brings me to my current quest. 14 Guage seems pretty light for floor pans that don’t have rib.

Has anyone bought from Island Plate and Steel sales?

Hardcore Metal Company?

Quit screwing around.

Front Floor Pans 3-Spd '64 - '73

Front Floor Pans 3-Spd '64 - '73

www.coolcruisers.com

 

[bikersmurf]

Quit screwing around.

Front Floor Pans 3-Spd '64 - '73

Front Floor Pans 3-Spd '64 - '73

www.coolcruisers.com

1) I'm no longer buying anything From the USA.

2) My floors aren't so far gone that I'd want to spend $800+ USD for a few square feet of thin sheet metal. Especially since I have a lot of decent OEM metal harvested from another 40 that got a new tub.

3) All the rear tub is 1/8" with no ribs. That ship sailed long ago so there's no point in looking back now.

4) That's what the naysayers all said before I rebuilt the rear half of the tub out a 4'x8' sheet of 1/8" steel plate in the gravel driveway of a place I lived at in the interior. In '92 I only had an oxyacetylene torch, some borrower C-clamps, and a couple of hand tools. 33 years later, it's solid as can be. Now I just need to fix up the last of it that I didn't repair back then.

Would you say this is screwing around? Keep in mind I built this 32 years ago and it's still going strong. It's thicker than the steel that the frame is made of.

 

[bikersmurf]

To pass along my good fortune. I have access to small off cuts of stainless sheet. If you would like some small stuff for free let me know.
View attachment 3839771

I'll have to take you up on that. I was considering stainless for some of the patches. It would be very easy to pick up a roll of stainless wire for Miller.

how much are you willing to spare?