Probably give them another pass with the sander once there’s daylight again, hit the bottom of them with some paint, and bolt them in.
Bikersmurf’s 40
- Thread starter stevebradford
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Probably give them another pass with the sander once there’s daylight again, hit the bottom of them with some paint, and bolt them in.
cruisedeisel
Toyota's for life
They looked better before you put them to the grinder???
Such a solid feel when they lock into the brackets on the 1/8” thick steel floor when bolted down with 1/2” bolts. Even with only two of the brackets bolted down it feels more solid than stock car seats.
I’ve got the brackets all bolted in now.
Ran into a slippery slope problem.
The seat has spent almost its hole life in a basement… yet the brackets are covered in surface rust. The seat upholstery was held on with plastic strips, a zipper, and Velcro. Under the cover and foam, the steel was bare. There wasn’t much surface rust, but once I pulled the seat apart to paint the hinges, I felt the need to paint the frame as well.
So I’m back to waiting for paint to dry… again.
Next step is deciding whether to secure the centre seatbelts to the floor or the seat. The seat locks down securely, the seat is built solid, and it is equipped with car seat tie down points. If it is secure enough for two car seats, it should be secure for seat belts… thoughts?
Ran into a slippery slope problem.
The seat has spent almost its hole life in a basement… yet the brackets are covered in surface rust. The seat upholstery was held on with plastic strips, a zipper, and Velcro. Under the cover and foam, the steel was bare. There wasn’t much surface rust, but once I pulled the seat apart to paint the hinges, I felt the need to paint the frame as well.
So I’m back to waiting for paint to dry… again.
Next step is deciding whether to secure the centre seatbelts to the floor or the seat. The seat locks down securely, the seat is built solid, and it is equipped with car seat tie down points. If it is secure enough for two car seats, it should be secure for seat belts… thoughts?
Last edited:
Factory shoulder belts were either attached to the exhaust tube "roll bar" or the removable tin hard top, so just about anything is an improvement it seems to me. Either of your mounting choices for lap belts are probably strong enough to cut a person in half before they break.
It's a 40. Any real crash will have your noggin bouncing off enough steel it won't matter how well you're strapped in, the egg is getting scrambled
It's a 40. Any real crash will have your noggin bouncing off enough steel it won't matter how well you're strapped in, the egg is getting scrambled
True. I’ve got shoulder belts attached to the rear hoop, it’s just for where to attach the center receivers.Factory shoulder belts were either attached to the exhaust tube "roll bar" or the removable tin hard top, so just about anything is an improvement it seems to me. Either of your mounting choices for lap belts are probably strong enough to cut a person in half before they break.
It's a 40. Any real crash will have your noggin bouncing off enough steel it won't matter how well you're strapped in, the egg is getting scrambled
If they attached to the seat, then they aren’t on the floor when the seat comes out or is folded forward. Plus I hate having to pull the belts back up through the seat after it had been folded forward. That said bolting to the floor would be more straightforward… and how often would I need to pull them back up on a vehicle that sees <3000 miles a year.
The hinge pins of the seat aren’t overkill… but when it’s locked down at 4 corners it ain’t going nowhere and Chrysler designed it to keep 2-3 car seats secured.
The problem is I tend to think in terms of overkill engineering and forget seatbelts are normally attached to thin sheet metal not metal as thick as my 40 frame.
Only an 8/10 paint job, but 1000x better than no paint from the factory. After it has cured for a few years, I’ll throw a third coat over the thin spots… maybe.
If I was anal, I’d clip the hog rings and take the foam off… but since it was raw steel from the factory, and it’ll never see the light of day again, I sprayed it and didn’t worry about a bit of overspray on the back of the foam.
Last edited:
bcsteel
SILVER Star
I have a bj70 rear seat in my 40. To get in for an adult is s***e, getting out is even worse. Put it in there for our little boy who’s pretty stoked on being in the truck. He’s 30 pounds so getting him in and out isnt terrible. I sense a hernia soon tho.
It’s also really awesome when he jumps from the center console and his muddy rubber boot lands on both testicles.
Carry on.
It’s also really awesome when he jumps from the center console and his muddy rubber boot lands on both testicles.
Carry on.
From the driver’s side it’s a bit of a challenge… but I’m 6’4”+ and I can get in & out on both sides.
The passenger seat folds forward almost flat which helps.
Chinese fire drills at traffic lights were a real challenge 30 years ago… as the driver I didn’t change seats but 4 passengers did.
In is much easier. Out the 16” wide CARR step helps as does the Oh s*** bar
The passenger seat folds forward almost flat which helps.
Chinese fire drills at traffic lights were a real challenge 30 years ago… as the driver I didn’t change seats but 4 passengers did.
In is much easier. Out the 16” wide CARR step helps as does the Oh s*** bar
I dug through my pile of spares and cleaned up a straight one that was in good shape. I then Refurbished a drag link (or would it be a relay rod) and installed a 555 rod end.
Probably hit it with a first coat of paint before installing it.
Probably hit it with a first coat of paint before installing it.
Painted the relay rod and installed it with a new set of TREs. First time in 32 years it has had a new set of TREs. Probably hit them with some paint soon too.
Painted. Still haven’t put in grease nipples. Not urgent by any means.
cruisedeisel
Toyota's for life
Is that a bj60 power steering box? It probably would have been easier for me to go in that direction and delete my relay rod? Not drag link??? Now I’m confused.
My 33x12.5 bfg’s rub on the push pull steering and suck. Going to the main land to pick up some 33x10.5 soon. There’s only 3 of them so, two for the front and one for the spare. And only 150$ for 3 @ 75 percent. Older but kept in a garage for 10 years. What could possibly go wrong?
My 33x12.5 bfg’s rub on the push pull steering and suck. Going to the main land to pick up some 33x10.5 soon. There’s only 3 of them so, two for the front and one for the spare. And only 150$ for 3 @ 75 percent. Older but kept in a garage for 10 years. What could possibly go wrong?
cruisedeisel
Toyota's for life
Do you finally have matching gears and 4x4 for the first time in how many years???
Scout II P/S box and Saginaw Pump. The P/S will turn 33x10.50 BFGs on dry pavement with 1 finger (or the palm of hand) while at a standstill.
Yup... it's been a couple. Not sure how many exactly. I believe it was 2011 that I bought the pair of thirds... and about 2012 +/- that I swapped in the rear set.
Looking back, it's hard to believe how much time has passed. It has been 7 years since I swapped in my newer (1972) SBC... I knew a few years had gone by, but I never though it was 7 years.
That makes more sense of how it could be 12 years. I'm so looking forward to wheeling it again. Especially with power steering, TREs, and a fully rebuilt front end.
That makes more sense of how it could be 12 years. I'm so looking forward to wheeling it again. Especially with power steering, TREs, and a fully rebuilt front end.
cruisedeisel
Toyota's for life
I installed a saginaw pump on my 3B Bj60 with 35's and welded front end. The stock toyota wasn't up for the task. The steering wheel feels way better too. Tracks better as well. The stock one was always over heating the fluid and blowing its load all over the place.
There’s tons of information online on boosting pressure and flow. I know and applied the basics when I built my pump… but it’s more or less stock. The boost is perfect. It doesn’t feel over boosted, turns with no effort, but lacks road feel. Just what I wanted.