Big brakes for 08-15 using 16+ parts

[Willie G]

Still looking for a friend.

I would love to see Ashville again...only been 30 years....but it's just too far.

 

[Whitesc300]

Another note on the upgrade, my 2015 brake pedal had a squishy air sound previously when depressed(not sure how to best describe it, but noticeable).
This sound went away when I upgraded the front/ changed out the rear brakes. I just noticed it on my drive home tonight.

 

[Jbuckley21]

Hi all,

Finally got around to doing this right before I send it off to Mainline. Used the industrial bit Drill America bit and some tap magic with my basic Ryobi on the low setting and didn’t take even 30 seconds each hole.

Dumb question, getting mixed info when searching the sites for pads, is it really the same size pad as 08 through 15? I assumed larger rotor and might mean a slightly larger pad, but doesn’t really look to be the case? Or maybe not everyone has updated info on their specs, which is unlikely.

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

Hi all,

Finally got around to doing this right before I send it off to Mainline. Used the industrial bit Drill America bit and some tap magic with my basic Ryobi on the low setting and didn’t take even 30 seconds each hole.

Dumb question, getting mixed info when searching the sites for pads, is it really the same size pad as 08 through 15? I assumed larger rotor and might mean a slightly larger pad, but doesn’t really look to be the case? Or maybe not everyone has updated info on their specs, which is unlikely.

Same brake pad part numbers for 08-15 and 16+

0446560280​

​

Oddly I'm finding 0446560281 for 2019+ , but the parts show as interchangeable and I'm not certain as to what the difference on the newer part number is.​

 

[bloc]

Hi all,

Finally got around to doing this right before I send it off to Mainline. Used the industrial bit Drill America bit and some tap magic with my basic Ryobi on the low setting and didn’t take even 30 seconds each hole.

Dumb question, getting mixed info when searching the sites for pads, is it really the same size pad as 08 through 15? I assumed larger rotor and might mean a slightly larger pad, but doesn’t really look to be the case? Or maybe not everyone has updated info on their specs, which is unlikely.

Same brake pad part numbers for 08-15 and 16+

0446560280​

​

Oddly I'm finding 0446560281 for 2019+ , but the parts show as interchangeable and I'm not certain as to what the difference on the newer part number is.​

I'm guessing here, but it could be a slight change to the pad compound. I can confirm TRD, Hawk, and EBC pads are interchangeable between the larger and smaller brakes though, I've put all of those in both early and late 200 calipers.

 

[Jbuckley21]

Thanks guys!

Follow up stupid question, what drives the improved breaking then? I get the larger rotor should equate to improved braking, but would assume only if larger contact area from pads. Calipers appear to be nearly same size, just eyeballing it, and must be if pads are interchangeable. It’s not as though the Calipers compress harder…

Not a mechanic or engineer, just couldn’t get my head around this.

 

[bloc]

Thanks guys!

Follow up stupid question, what drives the improved breaking then? I get the larger rotor should equate to improved braking, but would assume only if larger contact area from pads. Calipers appear to be nearly same size, just eyeballing it, and must be if pads are interchangeable. It’s not as though the Calipers compress harder…

Not a mechanic or engineer, just couldn’t get my head around this.

Basically the pad & caliper moving outward means a given amount of friction there has more leverage against the tire/wheel compared to the smaller rotor. Not unlike grabbing a cheater bar to help give mechanical advantage over a very tight bolt. In this case it's an incremental but noticeable difference.

 

[TeCKis300]

Thanks guys!

Follow up stupid question, what drives the improved breaking then? I get the larger rotor should equate to improved braking, but would assume only if larger contact area from pads. Calipers appear to be nearly same size, just eyeballing it, and must be if pads are interchangeable. It’s not as though the Calipers compress harder…

Not a mechanic or engineer, just couldn’t get my head around this.

Yup to above.

In addition to mechanical leverage, the larger rotor has the benefit of more mass to sink the heat generated from braking. This reduces peak temperature reached in an equivalent braking event. The larger rotor also has more surface area and vanes to cool off quicker.

All things that contribute significantly to braking larger loads, resulting in more consistent and repeatable brake performance.

 

[bloc]

In addition to mechanical leverage, the larger rotor has the benefit of more mass to sink the heat generated from braking. This reduces peak temperature reached in an equivalent braking event. The larger rotor also has more surface area and vanes to cool off quicker.

Very good points.

 

[Jbuckley21]

Thanks for the feedback, almost done installing, hope to pad in later today or tomorrow. Look forward to end result!

 

[Jbuckley21]

Did you all go with the 133# Front Brake Caliper torque specs post conversion? Assume so given it’s now effectively 16+ on the fronts. Versus the 08-15 which I think were 75#s

 

[bloc]

Did you all go with the 133# Front Brake Caliper torque specs post conversion? Assume so given it’s now effectively 16+ on the fronts. Versus the 08-15 which I think were 75#s

Yes. Larger bolt with a different pitch, 133 is in the factory service manual and should be used with 16+ calipers.

 

[marques]

The front calipers were sticking on my '13 LX, resulting in uneven pad/rotor wear, so obviously it was the perfect opportunity to upgrade. Fairly straight forward other than drilling the holes out to 9/16". The reamer was not very effective and I couldn't even finish a single hole. I tried drilling both CW and CCW and ultimately it just spun generating heat but not cutting any more.

What did work was to use a standard 1/2" metal bit (which I already had) followed by a 9/16" bit (which required a quick trip to Home Depot), followed by a quick cleanup of any small burs on the edges of the holes. It may have been nice to also have a 17/32" bit to drill in 3 steps.

I torqued everything in place and bent the heat shields away from the rotors in a few spots to avoid any rubbing. Bled/flushed the calipers with about 3/4 liter of brake fluid until there were no air bubbles left. I followed that up with bedding in the new pads and life is good .

 

[KLF]

Gathering parts to do this upgrade now, as my front rotors and pads are close to done. This was the obvious choice for me (vs the Tundra parts), as I have already installed the SDHQ stainless lines a few weeks ago. I'm actually kinda surprised that the grooves in my DBA rotors are almost gone. Yes, as someone else posted, they are noisy at very slow speed (parking lot).

Trying to decide on calipers, I can get reman'd from NAPA up the street for $100 each, or new from McGeorge (Ourisman) for $140 plus shipping.

Considering the backing plates, I'll never turn down a chance to swap out older slightly rusted parts for new ones. $103 each now, ouch. Can I use a slide hammer to pull the front hub/bearing unit? Might have to get a loaner puller from Advance Auto.

 

[bloc]

Gathering parts to do this upgrade now, as my front rotors and pads are close to done. This was the obvious choice for me (vs the Tundra parts), as I have already installed the SDHQ stainless lines a few weeks ago. I'm actually kinda surprised that the grooves in my DBA rotors are almost gone. Yes, as someone else posted, they are noisy at very slow speed (parking lot).

Trying to decide on calipers, I can get reman'd from NAPA up the street for $100 each, or new from McGeorge (Ourisman) for $140 plus shipping.

Considering the backing plates, I'll never turn down a chance to swap out older slightly rusted parts for new ones. $103 each now, ouch. Can I use a slide hammer to pull the front hub/bearing unit? Might have to get a loaner puller from Advance Auto.

Slide hammer isn't the right tool as you'll be pulling the hub away from the CV, and the thing keeping the CV from pulling through will be the back of the knuckle, and the seal installed there.

You really need a press/puller that attaches to the lug studs or a 3-jaw type that catches the back of the hub face, then pushes the CV out through the back.

I'd absolutely go new Genuine Toyota over napa reman for that price. Factory coatings, seals, bore dimensions, etc.

 

[KLF]

Finally have all the parts in house. Pulled the OEM rotors out of the box to take a look, I don't like that there is no paint or any corrosion protection on the inside. I'm gonna scuff sand and paint the new backing plates with Rustoleum satin black. Was also thinking about using some High Heat Rustoleum on the inside of the rotors, or is there a better product? (Please don't suggest POR15, never wasting money on that stuff again)

I guess it can't hurt...

 

[Yossarian]

This mod has been on my radar for some time, but I always thought the brakes have been up to the task (especially compared to the earlier LC's). Now moving to the newer BBS Pro rims the caliper is stupid close to the rim on my earlier 200. I'm not keen on the free hand enlarging of the holes to fit the larger bolts, but the 16+ conversion solution appears to be the best of the options we have.

Time to start sourcing parts?

 

[bloc]

This mod has been on my radar for some time, but I always thought the brakes have been up to the task (especially compared to the earlier LC's). Now moving to the newer BBS Pro rims the caliper is stupid close to the rim on my earlier 200. I'm not keen on the free hand enlarging of the holes to fit the larger bolts, but the 16+ conversion solution appears to be the best of the options we have.

Time to start sourcing parts?

Tundra calipers wouldn’t require bolt hole enlargement, but you will need to piece together brake lines. Or you could modify the caliper and banjo bolt to use the 200-series lines as @bjowett did long ago.

That said plenty of us have successfully done the enlargement.. I do believe for most the step bit is a better method than the reamer, but that has worked too.

 

[KLF]

I have all the parts now, waiting in the garage. Plan to do this on Tuesday or Wednesday when the weather warms back up, for probably the last time.

I did apply the hi-heat paint to the inside of the rotors. I also am not impressed with the factory paint on the new backing plates, so I did a scuff-sand on them and applied a coat of Rustoleum primer and 2 coats of Satin Black. I don't like the sandwich of stiffener plate at the bolt holes, looks like a good place for water to hide and start rusting. So I also filled in the gaps with black RTV.

 

[KLF]

RTH: I have searched this thread back and forth, I know it's here, but I can't find the torque value for the larger caliper bolts. Finishing up this job right now. Anybody know?

Edit: Found it only a few posts above, 133 ft-lbs. Off I go to start bleeding!