I’d go for quality of upkeep before age/features personally
"Best Value" LX 570? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter willc
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Really? Won’t rotors, calipers, and backing plates cost more than that?
I own a 2009 LX. So my answer if quite biased.
It’s the same frame and engine across all years.
Newer has more tech progressively, but the 2009 LX is roughly the same tech level as a 2015 tlc.
For me I’d rather have the simpler tech and not have to fight thru the OEM layers that make no sense in the modern day of CarPlay/AA.
I bought one of the cheapest 200s for sale at the time, it had 209k miles.
I assumed that I’d spend a bit baselining and fixing, but over 6 years it has actually been less than I thought it would.
Being older model / less cost base I don’t fuss about cosmetics outside, no worry about pinstripes etc.
Since it’s all the same underneath the sheet metal you can decide what matters most to you and just find that version.
For me no car loan, no cosmetic concerns, and as low tech as an Lx got was the sweet spot.
It’s the same frame and engine across all years.
Newer has more tech progressively, but the 2009 LX is roughly the same tech level as a 2015 tlc.
For me I’d rather have the simpler tech and not have to fight thru the OEM layers that make no sense in the modern day of CarPlay/AA.
I bought one of the cheapest 200s for sale at the time, it had 209k miles.
I assumed that I’d spend a bit baselining and fixing, but over 6 years it has actually been less than I thought it would.
Being older model / less cost base I don’t fuss about cosmetics outside, no worry about pinstripes etc.
Since it’s all the same underneath the sheet metal you can decide what matters most to you and just find that version.
For me no car loan, no cosmetic concerns, and as low tech as an Lx got was the sweet spot.
Depends on which route you take but yes, very doable under $500.
Parts:
1) Brake calipers from second gen Tundra or Sequoia. I don't believe their brakes changed at all through even the current 2020 modes, though I haven't verified. Mine were used from a 2014 Tundra with 25k miles. These can be found dirt cheap from many sources. Re-manufactured, car part recyclers, car part retailers, Ebay, etc.
2) Brake rotor from a Tundra or Sequoia. As a previous track enthusiast, my personal preference is OEM. Anything else in the aftermarket is of questionable metallurgy or quality control. Except for the top tier brands which won't be a better value.
- OEM Brake Rotors left/right - 43512-0C020
3) Brake pad of your choice. Or re-use current pads if there's a lot of life left. Or aftermarket, which specified same pad for LC, LX, Tundra, Sequoia. I personally like upgraded street pads like Hawk HPS, Stoptech Street Performance, or TRD.
4) Hard brake line from caliper to suspension bracket
- passenger side: 473160C091
- driver side: 473170C031
5) Brake line from bracket to chassis
- Stoptech stainless brake line kit: 950.44023
- OEM: 90947-A2016
6) DIY line retension bracket (**more info in install below)
7) Brake fluid
8) Optional - Tundra brake shield though I found gentle massaging of the 200-series one to be perfectly viable.
Worthwhile to link to prior art on this install that details how to swap the brake shield which I didn't bother with. Takes this up to a 3-4 banana job.
STOP, collaborate and listen.....Tundra brake swap
First I would like to thank Brian Jowett (@bjowett ) for figuring out that this is possible and providing some of the parts at a better cost than available anywhere else. Second I want to thank Camelback Toyota and their parts department. They have gone above and beyond looking over parts...forum.ih8mud.com
I'm easily under $400 all said and done, which is dirt cheap for a legitimate brake upgrade. Barely more than a standard full up brake job.
Notes:
- I choose to simplify and streamline the install with minimal parts/effort by not changing the splash shield. As it is thin stamped steel, it's easily bent for the bit more clearance the larger rotor takes
- Tundra flexible line from suspension bracket to chassis is 1.6" longer, which can be expected as the Tundra suspension arms are about 1.5" wider. This works well here for either Tundra suspension swap, or stock, or extended down travel with OEM shock spacer
- The Tundra brake line setup is different (refer to below picture). The stock rubber brake line on the 200-series is a single piece, with a banjo fitting at the caliper, and retention bracket at the suspension upright. The Tundra setup requires a hardline at the caliper using a standard double flare connection. This is mated to the flexible brake line at the suspension bracket. A retention mechanism needs to be devised to secure the different line type. Potentially, there is a Tundra bracket that can be used, but this has not been identified
Tundra setup left, 200-series right
View attachment 2413683
One small benefit of the 2008-2011, though it is aesthetic - You can remove the lower LX door cladding to get a cleaner "LC-type" look. On 2008-2011 it is attached with double-sided tape; on 2013+, there are holes in the doors.
Before/after pics in the post below:
forum.ih8mud.com
Before/after pics in the post below:
"All_Terrain_Turtle" LX Build Thread
Started the first part of a full transmission fluid replacement (not flush). I chose to drop the pan and change out the filter. Followed the procedure @NLScooby put together here A few notes of things I did to make the job easier: Sprayed PB Blaster oil on the 12 transmission pan bolts 2...
forum.ih8mud.com
My #1 piece of advice would be to prioritize maintenance records over mileage/model year. These trucks will practically run forever if they are taken care of.
I'm cheap, so I got a 2010. If I had wanted to spend more money, I would have gotten an LC instead of an LX, not a newer LX. Just this guy's $.02
I am poor so I got the cheapest LC. 16+ lx/Lc are best looking
08-10 are ugliest. I am ugly as is my truck.
I am ok with that
- Thread starter
- #30
@pcut are you a 200 convert? I think I'd like that 13-15 LX but I'm also very happy with my 100 series. A lot of what I read from people who have owned both makes it sound like a 200 series is always the better option. Looks wise I give it to the 100, but the 200 series LX I drove was really impressive.
- Thread starter
- #31
that would actually be a big benefit to me. the less chrome the better.One small benefit of the 2008-2011, though it is aesthetic - You can remove the lower LX door cladding to get a cleaner "LC-type" look. On 2008-2011 it is attached with double-sided tape; on 2013+, there are holes in the doors.
Before/after pics in the post below:
"All_Terrain_Turtle" LX Build Thread
Started the first part of a full transmission fluid replacement (not flush). I chose to drop the pan and change out the filter. Followed the procedure @NLScooby put together here A few notes of things I did to make the job easier: Sprayed PB Blaster oil on the 12 transmission pan bolts 2...
- Thread starter
- #32
I would rank them
16+ LC
08-11 LX
13-15 LC
13-15 LX
08-11 LC
16+ LX
But beauty is in the eye of the beholder I guess!
well lc > lx. That is a given, thus I dont mingle those two.
Lc
16 + best
08-11 second
13-15 worst
——
lx
16+ best
13-15 second
08-11 worst
This is a dilemma I'm currently putting myself through. O n Tuesday I'm sending a 2015 LX with 87k for PPI, and also looking at a 2013 LX with 140k miles and trying to get it scheduled for PPI as well. Pricing is same given mileage adjustment and I think these are a good sweet spot (at least for me). I have the money for a 16+ LX but, I know I'll feel less guilty hauling stuff, going to home depot, scuffing it up, going to the beach, etc. having spent less money, and to just use it. But I also really appreciate great headlights, updated safety tech (BSM for my wife), and more modern things in general, hence the strong pull to lean towards a 16+. Not a fan of the 16+ mouse, but as others have said, it isn't good, but doesn't kill the deal for them once adjusted to using. So, to conclude, I also can't decide, but this has been a really good thread, and ultimately there is no wrong choice. Everyone has their use case and comfortable cash limits. For me, I'm tired of being on the sidelines of the 200 community and will hopefully be joining soon.
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
A fellow Pensacolian! Can’t go wrong, but if headlights matter the early ones are awful
Oh nice. Yeah we came here 2 years ago via Houston, San Antonio, Michigan, Toronto, Philly, NJ/NY. Its been great so far. Would be cool to meet up to check out your set up.
Discrimination. You are excused from being wrong
The right order from top to bottom best to worst looking.. it's simple, really.
'13-15 LC
'13-15 LX
'16-21 LC
'16-21 LX
'08-11 LC
'08-11LX
bloc
SILVER Star
For what it’s worth the 13-15 headlights can be very good when aimed correctly and using upgraded osram or Philips HID bulbs.
I hope one of those pans out for you though.
i will not take such abuse !!!Discrimination. You are excused from being wrong
The right order from top to bottom best to worst looking.. it's simple, really.
'13-15 LC
'13-15 LX
'16-21 LC
'16-21 LX
'08-11 LC
'08-11LX
however you are my brother - so all is ok
agree 10000% 08-11lx is the worst and ugliest for sure
Good to hear and will know soon enough.
