Best Upgrades for Under $100 (200-Series) (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Bummer, I just checked and it’s good up to 2015, I’ve got 2016
You can do it on a 2016 with no additional hardware. The mirrors will fold automatically when locked/unlocked if the switch is in the middle position. You can have your dealer (or any shop with tech stream) program the windows to go down with the remote. We charge 1/2 hr labor for this $62.50. While you are in there you can turn off the seat belt chime as well as other useful modifications.
 
You can do it on a 2016 with no additional hardware. The mirrors will fold automatically when locked/unlocked if the switch is in the middle position. You can have your dealer (or any shop with tech stream) program the windows to go down with the remote. We charge 1/2 hr labor for this $62.50. While you are in there you can turn off the seat belt chime as well as other useful modifications.
Thanks Eric but the mirror trick did not work... I thought that was for ‘19 and up
 
Thanks Eric but the mirror trick did not work... I thought that was for ‘19 and up
Sorry, I may have made an assumption there.
 
There may be a typo in Eric's directions. On my 2020, the mirrors will fold automatically when the switch is NOT in the middle position.
 
You can do it on a 2016 with no additional hardware. The mirrors will fold automatically when locked/unlocked if the switch is in the middle position.
What setting in techstream allows auto close/open with the door locks? I haven’t seen that option in the settings.
 
Looking at the Carfax of used 100s and 200s, I've noticed a trend that many Cruisers seem to have been in minor to moderate rear-end collisions. Which is hilarious because I don't know how you don't see a 3-ton hunk of steel in front of you, but I digress. I think using one of these would be a no-brainer. Cheap insurance.

Add me to the group who has been rear ended. The Nissan Frontier that rear ended me was totaled. Only a small dent in my lower tailgate and a plastic bumper was needed to replace it. But now thats on the car fax report, so yeah... It doesn't matter though, because I have no plans to sell the beast.
 
What setting in techstream allows auto close/open with the door locks? I haven’t seen that option in the settings.
If I remember correctly it was either windows to key fob settings
 
Another possible option from OZ if techstream can’t program 2016-2017.


I have not ordered this but am tempted to if I can’t sort out any settings on techstream for 2016.
 
Another possible option from OZ if techstream can’t program 2016-2017.


I have not ordered this but am tempted to if I can’t sort out any settings on techstream for 2016.
I ordered it, we’ll see
 
That is really clever, and yeah should work great and solve the side loading issue. I do like having the option of a metal shackle though.. not to mention the cost. But if these get cheaper, I’ll be very interested.

The Maxtrax is clever for sure but wow...the price!

I see other options that do solve the angle issue.
Here’s one with dual hitch-pin holes so it can work for either... I noticed a good number of others in the comparison part of the page...

GearAmerica Aluminum Hitch Receiver 2"x2" (Red) | 32,000 LBS (16T) MBS 16,000 LBS (8T) WLL | Heavy Duty Towing and Recovery for 4x4, Trucks, SUVs | Includes Steel Mega Shackle, Washers and ⅝ Pin Amazon product ASIN B0812ZYSSB
 
I picked up this version from Amazon this summer.

ALL-TOP Aluminum Shackle Hitch Receiver with Pin (35,000 Lbs Capacity)


71+N+qqOqzL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
 
It appears things have changed since I last checked.

Do any of the engineers here have thoughts on the hitch pin holes being aligned and meeting in the middle vs offset? Offset would technically be stronger but is that even needed?
 
"Stronger" would only apply if the holes not being used are behind the holes in use. This puts the steel in that section out of the tension zone.

But I think it's irrelevant. The forces it would take to part that thing through the holes would be soo large, I would think you would bend the crossmember first, or snap the strap. Highly dependent on the type of steel used, thickness of the square tube, strength of the pin, strength of the strap, etc.

The calcs should be easy, but I'm not sure on how the stress would propagate around the holes. I have an entire Mechanical Engineering department right down the hall from me, I could try to find one of the Materials professors and see how it is changed. Problem is, very few faculty are in their offices these days.
 
It appears things have changed since I last checked.

Do any of the engineers here have thoughts on the hitch pin holes being aligned and meeting in the middle vs offset? Offset would technically be stronger but is that even needed?

Been decades since I used my ME degree let alone done any stress analysis but lets just say if is a solid piece it is over engineered. Even if hollow, like my normal hitch there is no difference because the loading is on different sections.
 
Last edited:
Any Toyota dealer can get it for you. The nice thing about it is that it is designed for a vehicle without rear seats, so if you've taken the seats out, it has full coverage.
Little late to the party but that’s real nice especially for me. Those uncovered anchors are not comfortable to sit or lay on! Thanks for sharing.
 
I was gifted a Factor 55 hitchlink. Haven't used it yet but it sure looks nice.


4x4 Bling !!!!!
 
"Stronger" would only apply if the holes not being used are behind the holes in use. This puts the steel in that section out of the tension zone.

But I think it's irrelevant. The forces it would take to part that thing through the holes would be soo large, I would think you would bend the crossmember first, or snap the strap. Highly dependent on the type of steel used, thickness of the square tube, strength of the pin, strength of the strap, etc.

The calcs should be easy, but I'm not sure on how the stress would propagate around the holes. I have an entire Mechanical Engineering department right down the hall from me, I could try to find one of the Materials professors and see how it is changed. Problem is, very few faculty are in their offices these days.

Been decades since I used my ME degree let alone done any stress analysis but lets just say if is a solid piece it is over engineered. Even if hollow, like my normal hitch there is no difference because the loading is on different sections.

I completely forgot most hitch adapters are hollow. While aluminum isn't as strong as steel you are correct, solid, even with crossed holes, probably is still way stronger.

I was more thinking reduced cross section where the crosses meet compared to the holes not being aligned.. but if it'll rip the cross member off or shear the hitch pin first..

Either way a thought experiment. This is how my brain works.

I was gifted a Factor 55 hitchlink. Haven't used it yet but it sure looks nice.


If those had the cross-drilled holes I'd have one by now.

And, that brings up a good point. Factor 55 only drills horizontal holes in their 2" hitchlink, but the 2.5 and 3" versions have it cross-drilled.

Do they know something about strength that we don't? Or just a cost thing?
 
Does anyone know if the loncky steering wheel cover for the LC will fit an 11 LX? Can’t find an answer on their site and my wood is starting to get bad
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom