Best under-the-truck brake line flaring tool??o

[namsag]

Well you may have seen my other thread about removing/replacing my LSPV. It’s a ball of rust, I been prepping it for a week, steel brushing, spraying with Kroil, tapping, rinse, repeat.

I was able to break the two mounting stud nuts loose, and two of the brake fittings loose, but of course the last one is problematic. I even did the torch and wax candle trick. It rounded off (I was using a line wrench) before I realized it was happening, I wasn’t even using as much force as with the other two fittings that I got loose. Any tips for something else to try?

It looks like I won’t get this off without buggering it up and I may have to cut it. I will have to re-flare the line, it will have to be done on the truck with me underneath there. I have seen some very nice bench flaring units but what kind of flaring tool is best for working on a line under the truck?

Any advice appreciated, thanks, namsag.

 

[2fpower]

Not many options. I would use the standard old thing typically; however, last time I used the (typically benchtop) big eastwood unit held in a huge pipewrench by a friend.

 

[namsag]

Wow thats some friend! No room for that in this case unfortunately.

 

[excessive]

I have that same Eastwood tool above , and it makes the most perfect flares every time - it’s great. It does require a lot of force to activate, so I built a holder for it . The holder needs to be at least 3 feet long to hold it while pulling the lever.

 

[Red Merle]

I "rented" a brake flaring tool kit from one of the auto parts stores that I was able to use to make a couple of flares in the engine bay after I boogered one of them when I did this job. It was something like this, but I am not sure if it was this exact kit.


https://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-648...1522451393&sr=1-3&keywords=brake+flaring+tool

As for the bolts, I have had good luck using these on rusted and rounded bolts. Just go slow.

https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-BOLT-GRIP-Extractor-Expansion-394002/dp/B000QW6K8I

 

[JeepinPete]

This style vice grip plier is the best for brake lines, power steering hoses, etc. They do not slip, and they do not round over the nut:

IRWIN VISE-GRIP Locking Plier,Plain Grip,7" L - 4NV39|7LW - Grainger

As for the best tool, this is it. Inline hydraulic, kicks butt on all kind of tube forming:

Fairmount Hydraulic Flaring Tool

 

[Landseer]

I used this, it got the job done nicely:
OEM Automotive Tools Inline Flaring Tools 24364

 

[namsag]

Thanks for the recs fellas!

 

[Malleus]

The problem with what you're asking to do is that you don't have enough slack in the brake line. You're better off replacing it. It's still available OEM.

 

[mudgudgeon]

The problem with what you're asking to do is that you don't have enough slack in the brake line. You're better off replacing it. It's still available OEM.

if you have to buy a specialized tool, it'll likely be more than the replacement part.
Another option could be remove the damage line, take it somewhere and have a replacement made

 

[Malleus]

You could do that, but the availability of OEM quality lines here are two: slim and none. I really like the OEM lines for the price. They're the right length, have all the bends to fit and they're plastic-coated.

Well you may have seen my other thread about removing/replacing my LSPV. It’s a ball of rust, I been prepping it for a week, steel brushing, spraying with Kroil, tapping, rinse, repeat.

I was able to break the two mounting stud nuts loose, and two of the brake fittings loose, but of course the last one is problematic. I even did the torch and wax candle trick. It rounded off (I was using a line wrench) before I realized it was happening, I wasn’t even using as much force as with the other two fittings that I got loose. Any tips for something else to try?

It looks like I won’t get this off without buggering it up and I may have to cut it. I will have to re-flare the line, it will have to be done on the truck with me underneath there. I have seen some very nice bench flaring units but what kind of flaring tool is best for working on a line under the truck?

Any advice appreciated, thanks, namsag.

Just put a vice-grip on it and spin it off. It's unlikely you'll break the fitting off in the valve. You'll never have to do this again, so as long as you take care not to damage the threads, you can put it back on the same way you took it off.

Pro tip: make sure you have plenty of denatured alcohol on hand to clean up all spilled brake fluid. If you don't, you'll never find all the leaks. The alcohol vaporizes after a couple of minutes, so anything that's still wet after you clean it, isn't clean.