Best tool to cut metal angles (1 Viewer)

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Got to play a bit today. The new saw definitely cut angles better.
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Now the problem is getting the EXACT same length. Still very difficult for me. I seem to be within a 1/16"
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I bought this tool to help with the corners. This coupled with the new saw really produced a good corner.
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A new saw, new corner clamp, $20 worth of steel and a drive across town, plus most of the days labor to build something I could have bought at Harbor Freight for $35 with a coupon. ;)
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I learned a bit today and I am really starting to hear the welder when it is working correctly. I just need a few more projects under my belt.
 
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If you want exact same length, use a stop maybe?
 
Next bench tool purchase needs to be one of these:

Amazon product ASIN B07FPTS12C
You can tweak pieces to get them all precisely the same length. Then clean up welds, round off sharp edges, etc. Very useful, I use mine a lot.
 
That looks pretty slick. I do not currently have a work bench I can mount that on. I do park my Cruiser in the garage so all my metal working tools get shoved over to one side and packed in tight.
 
It looks like you're in a similar position to me. I'm a pretty "green" welder, and for me to do it at home involves a lot of temporary setups.
Getting yourself up off of the ground helps a lot.
I like these:
Each horse folds, then you can "lock" them together in a unit. The gap at the ends lets you hold 2x framing lumber. 2 sawhorses, (2) 2x4x8 and a sheet of 3/4" cdx makes a pretty sturdy and easy take down work surface. Obviously wood is not an ideal fixturing and welding surface, but it will make fabbing your basic components a bit easier I would think.
 
I'm also limited on space, every project becomes a Tetris challenge to fit in the tools and materials. I actually found a cheap but heavy duty printer stand, and have all my metal working tools and grinder on that. Any time I'm doing metal grinding or cutting, I move it outside so I don't have to clean up and it avoids all that nasty metal shavings all over the place.
 
I have a heavily used ~25 year old HF band saw that I got used. This one, but green and a whole lot less shiny: 1 HP 4 in. x 6 in. Horizontal/Vertical Metal Cutting Band Saw I've found that the PO was correct in his observation that if it is cutting crooked when the cutting tension is set correctly that the blade is tired and needs to be replaced. Buying quality blades is crucial to the saw working correctly. You'll never get anything but crap cuts from an HF saw blade. I buy name brand blades from MSC and get good life out of them even when I do abuse them with odd cuts.
About the only part that really sucks on these saws is the stand. The Garage Journal forum has a thread (likely more than one now) on building a nice & sturdy stand for one. One of my 'round tuits.

I lay out miter cuts with a Starret Tri-Square. A quality one of these is a very good purchase. Mine was found used at the Saugus Swap Meet at one of those guys with a bunch of usually junk used tools for sale. Blade against the fixed jaw and the slide against the blade itself, side of the slide laid flat on the saw's bed.

By laying the first unit cut on top of the next one about to be cut and feeling how the ends match up I get really close to the same length. I make a point of keeping track of the first one and use it only for setting up all of the next ones to be cut.

I bought an 8' X 16' TuffShed, added sub-flooring, 12" sq parqueted flooring tiles, insulation, 8 quad outlets, mildly textured & white painted wall board, and a pair of 4' fluorescent lights (soon to be replaced with LEDS) and put all of the cutting & grinding tools in it. Still need to bring air into it for the blast cabinet.
 
My HF saw is an old green one too. I make a point of keeping the space between the blade runners as short as possible. It cuts plenty accurate for anything that will be welded. In fact, I can cut a sliver of material without the blade deflecting. Of course, it has to be tight for that.

But realistically, the fit would have to be inordinately bad for welding not to be able to take care of the gap with corners like the above. In practical terms, I think that any of the tools discussed here would be able to do a good enough job with reasonable care. A welder and a grinder: the big forgiver! :)
 
Really depends on the welding process. the fit shown above is on the bottom end of acceptable for GTAW, but more than acceptable for GMAW (MIG wire comes on a spool for a reason :) )
 
It looks like you're in a similar position to me. I'm a pretty "green" welder, and for me to do it at home involves a lot of temporary setups.
Getting yourself up off of the ground helps a lot.
I like these:
Each horse folds, then you can "lock" them together in a unit. The gap at the ends lets you hold 2x framing lumber. 2 sawhorses, (2) 2x4x8 and a sheet of 3/4" cdx makes a pretty sturdy and easy take down work surface. Obviously wood is not an ideal fixturing and welding surface, but it will make fabbing your basic components a bit easier I would think.
I currently have a HF Welding Table and a Clamping sawhorse similar to a Rockwall Jawhorse. I have considered building another shed, just not sure how far down the rabbit hole I am going to go.
 
I was concerned about the abrasive dust in the shop. It is excellent at screwing up machine tools. We had the room and the budget, so I did it. The guy that I used to chase a desert racer for has a 20' cargo container with all of his abrasive dust producers inside it for the same reason.
 
For that matter, I would be hesitant to use a cold saw in a place where I drive a vehicle. It's pretty hard to get rid of thousands of sharp little blades eagerly waiting to burrow into a tire...
 
Yes, I have to sweep them up before I pull the cruiser back in. I may have to use it in the unused section of my driveway if I get any flats. I do run E rated tires.
 
I have a small Makita cordless blower, it's super handy for stuff like that. After I'm done using the saw or sander, just blow all the swarf off the tools and driveway and on to the lawn. Takes only a minute or so.

It's not an issue for me, but I'd be careful with those metal shavings if you have pets that roam around. I could see them getting embedded in their paws... ouchie!
 
^ Good point about the pets!
And so much for those romantic barefeet dinners and walks on the lawn with the SO, eh? :)
 
@TXSunDevil ; Rabbit hole indeed. I went from used welder to "needing" a plasma cutter in 5 months. I did a bit of research last night regarding putting one of the expensive carbide blades on a standard 10" Miter saw. I'm not entirely sure the motor is up to the task long term, but we have a spare saw kicking around.
 
I am borrowing a plasma cutter right now. I just upgraded my oxygen acetylene torch regulator and torch today at my local welding shop when getting cylinders exchanged. I am not sold on the plasma yet. I could probably use some instruction. My cutting torch does a pretty decent job. I now have a portaband with a SWAG table, Makita carbide saw, grinder, welding table, welder and bunch of safety gear and misc stuff. I now realize I have all the tools to do the work. I just need to hone my skills. I have been watching a guy on you tube who makes incredible stuff with less tools than I have in my shop. I just need to put the time in, just tough with a job and family.
 
I hear you. I work in home construction so stuff tends to "follow" me home. If I got rid of all the random crap in my garage(neither car will fit regardless), I could set up a decent small shop, but as it is, half my tools are in the basement, and half in the garage.
My 80 came with a homemade welded on receiver hitch, plasma seemed like the best solution for removal.
 
Welding 45 degree mitered corners can be problematic because of uneven heating on the inside and outside edges. The inside typically heats more and therefore shrinks more so that the finished product will be a couple of degrees less than 90. No amount of clamping is going to change this outcome.

It is better to put a square notch in one tube end by cutting along the inside of one side for the width of the tube and then cutting out a square notch. The left over flap covers the open end of the other tube. It is a little more welding, but the joint tends to stay square After welding.
 
I do also remember seeing a vid on YT from a reputable channel about how to weld rectangular frames to minimize distortion by going back and forth etc.

added: not the one I remembered but here is one I just saw:



and here is one by Jody (if you don't know about him yet, he's quite possibly the best welder / welding teacher on YT - highly recommended ):

 
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