ntsqd
technerd
What he said.
Best tool to cut metal angles (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter TXSunDevil
- Start date
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AFAIK, many 6" cut off wheels are rated at around 10,000. And I have seen some lower than that. Personally, I would not use a 10,000 one on a 11,000 rpm grinder. I would not even use a 6" wheel rated at 11,000 rpm on a 4.5" 11,000 rpm grinder, actually. The tool is just not designed for that. But, eh, it's your face.
brian
SILVER Star
like i said, it's not always scary.
ntsqd
technerd
Like I've said, there are better ways to do the job and since the thread title is "Best way to..... "
brian
SILVER Star
It's all about skill level
I have used a 6 inch wheel on a 4.5 inch grinder for a long time and I am still here. I have never had one blow up on me, but I have had a 4.5 inch disk let go. Just wear your PPE. The RPM rating for the wheels is about the same and they are never close to the max when you are cutting which is when they fail.
YMMV
YMMV
MrMikeyG
SILVER Star
Not trying to derail the thread here, but this could be good info to @TXSunDevil too.
What is everyone using for a welding jacket or sleeves? I know it makes a huge difference if your whole day involves sparks, but I generally wear Large Tall for shirts and jackets, and I'm having a devil of a time finding any tall sizes. I'm debating just grabbing a used heavy canvas Carhartt jacket off of ebay.
What is everyone using for a welding jacket or sleeves? I know it makes a huge difference if your whole day involves sparks, but I generally wear Large Tall for shirts and jackets, and I'm having a devil of a time finding any tall sizes. I'm debating just grabbing a used heavy canvas Carhartt jacket off of ebay.
brian
SILVER Star
Long sleeve tee shirt...100% cotton.
If its cool outside a heavy cotton button down work shirt.
If its cool outside a heavy cotton button down work shirt.
If you are welding overhead, I like the Miller flame resistant welding jacket with the Velcro collar to keep the berries from going down my neck. Hot berries will make you wiggle and dance. They are cheaper than Carhartt.
www.weldingsuppliesfromioc.com
Miller Classic Cloth Welding Jacket
Choose from several sizes of Miller's classic cloth welding jackets.
www.weldingsuppliesfromioc.com
MrMikeyG
SILVER Star
Thanks. I know there's no need to get crazy since I'm only a hobby welder, but I wore sleeves at a class and didn't really dig that. Synthetics will melt though, so no polar fleece when it's cold out.
Also, I just found out about the jflf.org pretty good stuff.
Also, I just found out about the jflf.org pretty good stuff.
- Thread starter
- #71
I have been wearing a long sleeve FR shirt or the Lincoln sleeves that came with the basic Lincoln PPE kit I bought. I also ordered a leather apron from Harbor Freight. I keep getting metal shards in my jeans and shirt
MrMikeyG
SILVER Star
Yeah, metal shards don't shake out as easy as hot brass on the range.
- Thread starter
- #73
Now that I have figured out how to cut these tow hooks out I need to try out my new hole saw. I realized my hand drill would probably not be the best so I figured I would get a drill press and a vise. Now I have been told to use some type of wood on the top of the plate here. How do I do that? I tried youtube but can't find what I am looking for. It seems I would have to trace this pattern onto a piece of wood and cutout with a jigsaw? Any ideas would be great, I do want to be able to use and move the vise.
Looks like you got an entry level drill press. Those usually don't run very slow. Check if the lowest speed is low enough for the holesaw you plan to use so that you don't burn it up in no time. And use plenty of cutting oil.
Not sure what you mean about needing a wood piece that will follow the (table?) pattern. It is a good idea to have a sacrificial wooden board under the vise if you think you may hit the table with the holesaw if it is bigger than the center hole in the table or off-center. But that's not really necessary if your piece is held in the vise and you are careful or use the stop to prevent the holesaw from going too low. (Do check that the empty space in the vise under the workpiece is bigger than the holesaw, though, and center the hole over that.) And don't think you have to tighten the vise down. On the contrary, in most cases you want it to be able to move freely so that the bit centers itself in the centerpunched divot you use to locate the hole. It is however, a good idea to have some sort of stop to prevent it from spinning if the bit were to catch. Your vise is pretty big for the table, though, looks like half of it will be sticking out, that's not so great.
Not sure what you mean about needing a wood piece that will follow the (table?) pattern. It is a good idea to have a sacrificial wooden board under the vise if you think you may hit the table with the holesaw if it is bigger than the center hole in the table or off-center. But that's not really necessary if your piece is held in the vise and you are careful or use the stop to prevent the holesaw from going too low. (Do check that the empty space in the vise under the workpiece is bigger than the holesaw, though, and center the hole over that.) And don't think you have to tighten the vise down. On the contrary, in most cases you want it to be able to move freely so that the bit centers itself in the centerpunched divot you use to locate the hole. It is however, a good idea to have some sort of stop to prevent it from spinning if the bit were to catch. Your vise is pretty big for the table, though, looks like half of it will be sticking out, that's not so great.
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- Thread starter
- #75
The 7/8” hole saw was slow going but I got them drilled. I ended up using c clamps to hold the vise on the base. The nuts would not hold it in the correct spot
@TXSunDevil , time n patience is your friend. i'm seconding what was said about drill speed. keep in mind, the larger the hole diameter, the slower the drill speed n keep it lubed/cooled. pcs are looking respectable, nothing to be ashamed of
regarding the original ? when i've got angles that need to be dead nuts on, i'll lay out my cut on the stock, cut it aprox 1/16'' longer, then dress down to lay out with a belt sander, or grinder with a flappy disc. patience grasshopper 
- Thread starter
- #78
Thanks, I set the saw on the lowest speed and used cutting oil. I have realized exact repeatable cuts will probably not happen in my garage so I will just fill when needed. This is a process and I am on step 1
when i started fabbin' back, oh fawk, can't remember when, dad had me cutting my metal with a hack saw, then a file to fit the joints. those were the baby steps. keep at it man, you'll do fine
