I purchased the Champion Radiator Model CC1214 above for my 1990 FJ62. The unit bolts in just fine but the fittings are for chevy engine conversion and I still have stock 3F engine, so according to my mechanic I need to have either a brass male adapter 3/8 x 18 npt to female M12 x 1.5 or he will have to cut the lines and clamp which is not his or my preferred installation. I have been uanble to find the brass adapter required. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
best source for FJ60 radiator (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Corbet
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I purchased the Champion Radiator Model CC1214 above for my 1990 FJ62. The unit bolts in just fine but the fittings are for chevy engine conversion and I still have stock 3F engine, so according to my mechanic I need to have either a brass male adapter 3/8 x 18 npt to female M12 x 1.5 or he will have to cut the lines and clamp which is not his or my preferred installation. I have been uanble to find the brass adapter required. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
My mechanic was hesitant to cut stating an adapter fitting if available was a better fix and more pressure resistant. He seemed to be more concerned than I was. To me not the end of the world if I can't find an adapter but would prefer overall.
Trans fluid is not under very high pressure. Clamps should work fine. The concern (in my simple mind) is making sure the hose doesn't pop off the fitting and lose fluid. That could ruin your trans.
A barbed fitting would be good, but as long as the fitting is secure its shouldn’t leak.
A barbed fitting would be good, but as long as the fitting is secure its shouldn’t leak.
Try the Parker Tube Fittings Catalog.
You're probably going to need two adapters; one to reduce the 3/8'NPTF & the other to screw into it and adapt to M12X1.5. If you poke around in there, I bet you can make something that will work without resorting to cutting lines and using hose clamps. Check out pg. 14.
The original Toyota fittings are steel (not brass) and were plated with cadmium.
The Parker fittings below are also steel but zinc plated, which is not quite as corrosion resistant as cadmium.
This is what I found… (as an example.. not sure if this is what you are looking for):
First adapter will reduce the 3/8-18 NPTF to 1/8-27 NPTF
Parker PN: 3/8 x 1/8 PTR
(this fitting is also available in stainless steel with a different PN & MFG from MSC Industrial Supply
The second adapter will screw into the 1/8-27 NPTF and leave you with a M12X1.5F
Parker PN: 1/8M12FHG8
If you web-search the part numbers want, you can find a vendor.
but..............check out the catalog and find the fittings you want to make sure that those are what you are looking for... The PN's above are only an example.
Hope that helps...
You're probably going to need two adapters; one to reduce the 3/8'NPTF & the other to screw into it and adapt to M12X1.5. If you poke around in there, I bet you can make something that will work without resorting to cutting lines and using hose clamps. Check out pg. 14.
The original Toyota fittings are steel (not brass) and were plated with cadmium.
The Parker fittings below are also steel but zinc plated, which is not quite as corrosion resistant as cadmium.
This is what I found… (as an example.. not sure if this is what you are looking for):
First adapter will reduce the 3/8-18 NPTF to 1/8-27 NPTF
Parker PN: 3/8 x 1/8 PTR
(this fitting is also available in stainless steel with a different PN & MFG from MSC Industrial Supply
The second adapter will screw into the 1/8-27 NPTF and leave you with a M12X1.5F
Parker PN: 1/8M12FHG8
If you web-search the part numbers want, you can find a vendor.
but..............check out the catalog and find the fittings you want to make sure that those are what you are looking for... The PN's above are only an example.
Hope that helps...
Hey Shaft...thanks for the pointers I'm of the mind set why cut a good line and have a lower quality fix, "if" there is a better option. I will keep you updated.
I have a really good radiator sitting in my garage that I need to put up for sale (went with a Champion when I put in the vortec).
jmcclusk
SILVER Star
I'm interested, is it stock/ how much?
You will be tripling the number of potential leak points... but do as you think is the "quality fix".
Having a whole new lines made by a hose shop with the correct fittings would be the "right" way to do it.
Cheers
Last edited:
I agree but for the time being the lines were cut and lines clamped. I have the cut lines, so I have the option to correct by getting the proper fittings. Speaking of leak points the fitting did not seat properly on the aluminum radiator for the radiator trans cooler and I was leaking trans fluid, so I took back to the mechanic and he said he did not trust getting the proper fit as being aluminum it was not cross threaded but boogered up and the o ring was not seating properly, so he scrapped the radiator trans cooler and added an external trans cooler. The mechanic questioned whether the aluminum radiator was a good option, as typically the aluminum radiators are for racing engines with short runs not regular over the road use. Not sure if that is an issue but that was his concern.
Not relevant to the current discussion but it is to the thread- I just installed a CSF 2708 radiator in my 87 FJ60. Direct bolt-in. $365 from my local radiator shop. I talked to him about repairing my 10 year old OEM Toyota radiator, which had been dented on the top and developed some hairline cracks, but he felt that the replacement CSF was a good choice.
Wanted to resurrect this thread...
I think I might attack this project in the coming weeks as my truck is running a little hot (now that warmer weather is finnaly here).
OEM Toyota is about $496 plus $25 shipping
Radiator.com has it at $410 (pickup)
O'Reilly has them at $389 plus shipping
jegs.com has them for $175.99 and free shipping (2 Row)
Cruiser Corp has them for $298 (3 Row) and free shipping
My repair funds are running low after an unexpected crossmember repair from my local welder, and I want to undertake this project myself.
Any Preference or recommendation from the group?
I think I might attack this project in the coming weeks as my truck is running a little hot (now that warmer weather is finnaly here).
OEM Toyota is about $496 plus $25 shipping
Radiator.com has it at $410 (pickup)
O'Reilly has them at $389 plus shipping
jegs.com has them for $175.99 and free shipping (2 Row)
Cruiser Corp has them for $298 (3 Row) and free shipping
My repair funds are running low after an unexpected crossmember repair from my local welder, and I want to undertake this project myself.
Any Preference or recommendation from the group?
Did you have to make any adjustments or was it a pretty easy fit?
I just installed the Champion 2 row. It's aluminum but I was impressed by the condition it arrived in and install was very smooth. No leaks and once I settled my other cooling issues it is doing the job.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1985-1986-1...213-/161570895987?hash=item259e603873&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1985-1986-1...213-/161570895987?hash=item259e603873&vxp=mtr
exact fit....no mods no changes, bolt in
http://www.autozone.com/cooling-hea...yota/land-cruiser/1986/6-cylinders-f-4-2l-2bl
Spectra Premium
Works well, I've had no issues
Rock Auto shows similar SPECTRA PREMIUM / COOLING DEPOT Part # CU12
but lists it out of stock... I think some of the suppliers had dropped making ones without the trans cooler (since the radiator fits F62s too). So nothing wrong with running a radiator with the trans cooler on a manual trans truck...the cooler is just not used.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2003
- Threads
- 117
- Messages
- 11,199
- Location
- Lancaster, Ohio, USA
- Website
- www.tlcperformance.com
CSF 2708 is reasonably priced from Amazon as well.
Not a fan of the cheap AL rad. Last one I saw did not fit perfectly, and the cap leaked because the neck was not machined perfectly.
Not a fan of the cheap AL rad. Last one I saw did not fit perfectly, and the cap leaked because the neck was not machined perfectly.
I picked up the CSF 2708 on Amazon as well. Cheapest place I could find it last year. Highly recommend.
