What is everyones opinion on Whynter brand fridges?
Best size fridge for 80 series
- Thread starter mtkreitz
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Funny thing is, if I didn't have a guage, id never know and just kept driving it - dang guage!
that's why I like to take the 40 out - problem solved
and, my experience with the LX's S/C is that the heat only builds up when not driving fast enough
As far as I can tell they are the same as the Edgetsar.
My ARB has a low voltage sensor (adjustable). It turns itself off before the battery voltage gets too low to start the vehicle. I tested it in my driveway...Left the fridge running for several days. One day, I checked it and saw a warning light and noted the temperature in the fridge was 50* (I set if for 32*). I got in, turned the key and the engine kicked over, no problems! Once started, my fridge turned itself back on and started cooling down again.
Seems like most brands should also have the low voltage cut off...I wouldn't worry about current draw on these fridges (my experience is with ARB only). Seems to draw very little current. Admittedly, I haven't taken any measurements.
There are better fridges then the Edgestar but at $287 for a 63qt there's no better value.
I see mine on the back patio for a good part of the summer, dual purpose.
I see mine on the back patio for a good part of the summer, dual purpose.
Besides ARB what other fridges should I consider?
User manual - seems AC/DC --- so it has an inverter or power supply. If inverter bad, more DC draw; if power supply good, less DC supply required.
Draws 5.5A running at 12v (per website). What the manuals conveniently miss is the important spec of at TEMP A (inside) and TEMP B (outside) vs. how many watt-hours a day it draws? Arb at least specs that at 90 F it will stop holding max cold (the compressor is maxed out at that differential = thus running 24/7).
The Edgestar manual says nothing about typical power consumption. Only maximum, or 5.5A - so on a hot desert day, 5.5A * 24 Hr = 132AHr. I believed the Arb was less than that, but actually draws 7A at 24Hr == 168AHr. But to quote the Arb manual:
Those number make me suspect the Edgestar is a bit under powered and may have difficulty at even lower temps than 90F.
Draws 5.5A running at 12v (per website). What the manuals conveniently miss is the important spec of at TEMP A (inside) and TEMP B (outside) vs. how many watt-hours a day it draws? Arb at least specs that at 90 F it will stop holding max cold (the compressor is maxed out at that differential = thus running 24/7).
The Edgestar manual says nothing about typical power consumption. Only maximum, or 5.5A - so on a hot desert day, 5.5A * 24 Hr = 132AHr. I believed the Arb was less than that, but actually draws 7A at 24Hr == 168AHr. But to quote the Arb manual:
Those number make me suspect the Edgestar is a bit under powered and may have difficulty at even lower temps than 90F.
Waeco is what Im happily running in my 80.
In the past I have also owned Norcold with no problems
I have had an Engel for six years and it is great! They have fallen behind ARB on the gadgetry, but their fridge is top-notch.
I use mine weekly in the Subi for the long trips to the grocery store, and bolt it into the FJ40 or the Taco for camping. I use a wireless thermometer for monitoring the temps, and have gotten it into the single digit range. I can turn it off at night when camping and it keeps everything nice & cold. I generally run it around 30F in the daytime and even on hot nights I'll have ice in my water & juice the next morning.
I have two batteries in both the FJ40 and the Taco so I never worry about running the battery down and I don't think I've gone less than 12 volts even after two days of not driving. If I had a cool daddy solar panel like Phil I could run the Engel indefinitely.
This link describes the various fridge technologies and why the Engel (and ARB) compressors are the "best".
http://www.engel-usa.com/why-choose-engel/why-choose-engel-freezers/fridgefreezer-features
How many cranks do you figure you have at the fridge shut off point?
Again - not an expert but I've done research for a job that required batteries on a converoir belt. Charge will vary battery to battery; really, its impossible to really know charge state solely off voltage. You need one of the specific gravity bulb testors... and then the chemical makeup of the battery plates...
But as a general rule: here is a chart for a really good battery (12v Rolls middle range), per cell, so multiply by 6 cells:
We have had an ARB 50 quart for about 4 years and love it, that said it is a bit small for our needs so I'm going to sell it and upgrade to a 63 quart. On longer trips we end up needing a small cooler as well which isn't so bueno. Plus the lower height of the 63 should work better on top of the ARB drawers (1 with slide) I'm in the process of installing in the 80.
I am not sure about that...it turned over enough to start, but I could tell the battery had been discharged. I probably could have tried cranking my ignition two more times or so...But, GWCruiser seems to have some good input WRT that, I'll defer to him.
ARB's have three settings for low voltage cutoff. I use the lowest setting.
I've had my 63qt ARB for just over 3 years. It has taken a week or two off at a time, but has mostly been running since I bought it. I do try to maximize it's efficiency, by keeping it well stocked (typically just gallons of water).
I transfer the fridge between my 4runner, 80 and 100 depending on what I'm doing. All three vehicles are set up differently for my fridge.
My 100 is totally stock. I just use the factory outlet in the back, the fridge is on when the key is on. The 100 is used for towing the popup on camping/touring trips. I haven't experienced any problems running the fridge only when the key is on, but I keep saying I'll add an auxiliary outlet that doesn't require my ignition to be turned on...
My 4runner (single batt) and 80 (dual batt, under hood, manual switch) have auxiliary outlets that are always hot.
Based on my usage model, I do not think a dual battery set up is at all necessary. However, I (like most of you) navigate via computer/GPS, communicate via CB/Ham, and charge phones, DVD players and other iGadgets in addition to a fridge. Which made an additional fuse panel and auxiliary outlets necessary.
I recently read about using a motorcycle battery, installed where the sub goes (rear quarter panel), and a 100w solar panel- for 80 owners wanting a separate battery to run their fridge. I'd probably try that route, if I was just starting out...and wanted a dedicated battery for my fridge.
A MC battery seems like a bad idea for two reasons, not big enough, and not designed for it. Instead buy a PowerSonic 18 or 21 AH deep-cycle AGM or GEL instead for the same price; or a 35AH is you have room. At least they are designed for cyclic use rather than high start discharge like an AGM MC battery. If the fridge uses 10AH over night and you have a 20AH battery, you're in the middle life span category; a 35AH triples the expect life for a small bump in cost.
For those inclined, a good battery primer is attached.
http://www.power-sonic.com/ps_psg_series.php