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No. I have an aux fusebox in the right rear side panel area (used the power wire that went to a 7 pin trailer harness for the 12v to the fusebox) I pull 12v from that. I ran +12 to the switch then to the lights. I would normally use a relay but given the low draw of these 2 LEDs and the fact that they are on a dedicated circuit (not a factory circuit) I didn't think it was worth it.
 
The rear hatch lock cylinder hasn't worked since purchasing the rig (the hatch would lock and unlock with the electric lock on drive'rs door, but wouldn't open or lock with the key). It looked tampered with, and I assumed it was broken. A replacement cylinder was priced at $155 from the dealer. Took it to a local lock smith, and after $30 it opens and locks with the key. It's so much nicer when I need to put groceries in the back.
 
I rebuilt my rear lock myself. It was just seriously gummed up.. (But I also matched the keys I wanted to it)
 
I rebuilt my rear lock myself. It was just seriously gummed up.. (But I also matched the keys I wanted to it)
post a thread with instructions tips and pics, or it didn't happen:p
 
I thought I did.. Hmmm...
 
Love this thread. My keys were slapping against my steering column and making me nuts. Found this stuff on amazon for like 17 bucks: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NZFROY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

No key noise at all now, and had plenty extra to snug up my tuffy box to keep all my gadgets calm. Stuff is easy to cut and sticks very well.

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Love this thread. My keys were slapping against my steering column and making me nuts. Found this stuff on amazon for like 17 bucks: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NZFROY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

No key noise at all now, and had plenty extra to snug up my tuffy box to keep all my gadgets calm. Stuff is easy to cut and sticks very well.

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That is the best bloody idea EVER!!! doing this. Cheers
 
Love this thread. My keys were slapping against my steering column and making me nuts. Found this stuff on amazon for like 17 bucks: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NZFROY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

No key noise at all now, and had plenty extra to snug up my tuffy box to keep all my gadgets calm. Stuff is easy to cut and sticks very well.

Good idea! I just got some Velcro from my local CVS and used just the loop side to do this same thing. I think it was Velcro brand, less than $10 IIRC.
 
Never thought to line the inside of my console with my leftover stuff! Brilliant!! Even have some spare steel around that I may try and make a small compartment like you have for your light for mine and random pens/whatnot.
 
Ever since my family had cruisers, they lined the area under the ignition key slot with a small sheet of cork to quiet down the key noise. It has been done in every single land cruiser (ranging from 60s, 70s, 80s and 90 series) since I can remember.
 
Made myself a plug for the 12V outlet under the dash.

2.30 for the plug at home depot.
5.98 for the cigarette lighter style outlet.

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Made myself a plug for the 12V outlet under the dash.

2.30 for the plug at home depot.
5.98 for the cigarette lighter style outlet.


Cool.
Any idea on the gauge of the wire in the stock harness for that plug so you know what you can safely plug in there?
 
Plus it looks like one might be able to wire a hard mounted cig socket into that hole in the support metal frame next to the 2 prong socket...


This pic should help with the wire size. Looks like 10 gauge.

And yes. That's a good idea for the hole.

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Made myself a plug for the 12V outlet under the dash.

2.30 for the plug at home depot.
5.98 for the cigarette lighter style outlet.


You all know this already, but just in case, this outlet was designed for a light (linear load) that doesn't care which side is positive or negative. Non linear loads (everythibg else, electronics, etc) do care.

Don't ask me why I'm writing this.

Luckily that's one reason fuses were invented.

Test and mark your plugs. The are the same size.

Cheers
 
The rear hatch lock cylinder hasn't worked since purchasing the rig (the hatch would lock and unlock with the electric lock on drive'rs door, but wouldn't open or lock with the key). It looked tampered with, and I assumed it was broken. A replacement cylinder was priced at $155 from the dealer. Took it to a local lock smith, and after $30 it opens and locks with the key. It's so much nicer when I need to put groceries in the back.

Squirted some lithium grease in mine the other night and jiggled the key in it for a couple minutes. Good as new.
 
Made myself a plug for the 12V outlet under the dash.

2.30 for the plug at home depot.
5.98 for the cigarette lighter style outlet.

Dumb question but where did you plug it into under the dash?? Could you get a longer wire and run it to the rear of the vehicle and have a 12v there also?

Thanks
 
Could you get a longer wire and run it to the rear of the vehicle and have a 12v there also? Thanks


You are now talking about what, in my opinion, should be a more permanent, proper aux outlet install: Battery>fuse>wire (properly routed and protected) to rear location>aux outlet. Be sure to size your fuse and wire to handle the anticipated load. (this is the simple plan of course)
 
I thought I had posted this before, but I guess not. The '80s MR2s used the same outboard A/C vents as the 60s. If you're wanting to make all of your vents open/close, they seem to be a little bit easier to find in junkyards.
 

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