BEST 60 series radiator available???

[Elbert]

Good Replacement radiator caps are: Futaba and Sankei. Both are "made in Japan".

Where do you get one of the ones listed above?

 

[hatman406080]

Another plug for CSF. Mine is working fine.

Small gripe; the way it was boxed/packed did not adequately protect the fill neck. It got dented in transit. I was able to hand bend it and make it work.

...................................................good so far

 

[FJ62 BattleCruiser]

Where do you get one of the ones listed above?

Partsgeek.com

 

[desmocruiser]

did you get your new radiator yet? i am looking for a replacement as well.

I dropped my old OEM off at a very reputable radiator shop last week. They are going to check it out and determine if it can/should be reworked.

Should hear back from them in a day or two. They were swamped with the 95* days we have been having. Typically a 1 day turn aroun, but since the engine is a week or so away, I asked them to take their time.

 

[mrlocksmith]

I bought a Ron Davis (Which is the one made for and sold by Man-A-Fre). After 18 months I had cracks in all 4 corners that had to be expoxy'ed up. 8 months later it is still holding. I did not know about the in-flexibility of the mounts that will cause cracking.

As far as better performance, I found the the clutched fan comes on more as it is dissipating heat faster. This keeps the motor cooler but only when the an is on.

Mark

 

[VTCDN]

this is going back to the time of dirt !!

A TRUE rad shop can order a 4 row core copper solder in unit, and rebuild it..
only addition is for the slush guys , get the AT cooler checked ,at 18-20 psig ..

FOR ME !! This is the second , ONE is NO OIL !!!!!


VT

 

[Moby]

I bought a Ron Davis (Which is the one made for and sold by Man-A-Fre). After 18 months I had cracks in all 4 corners that had to be expoxy'ed up. 8 months later it is still holding. I did not know about the in-flexibility of the mounts that will cause cracking.

As far as better performance, I found the the clutched fan comes on more as it is dissipating heat faster. This keeps the motor cooler but only when the an is on.

Mark

I'm glad your epoxy fix is holding. I had both corners of my Ron Davis rad epoxied by a very experienced local radiator shop and it didn't make it 2 months. They pressure tested it overnight so I'm pretty sure the repair that they did was as good as it could have been, but the fundamental problem still existed.

Ron Davis told me that supposedly Man-a-fre has developed special rubber mounts. They don't show them on their website but it might be worth a call to them to protect your current investment.

If I go back to aluminum in the future it will be with a very flexible custom mount. With a custom mount I'll just buy an off the shelf unit to keep the price down. And I'll go with a cross flow.

 

[ntsqd]

I'm at the radiator research stage of my engine swap. Copper has a much higher heat transfer rate than does aluminum. The problem is the solder used to hold the fins to the tubes. It acts a bit like an insulator, which reduces the copper/brass radiator's heat loss ability to about that of an aluminum radiator. I think the c/b still has a slight advantage, but it's so small that it isn't relavent. There is some talk about a different method of fastening the fins to the tubes that results in better thermal transfer from the tubes to the fins, but there seems to be a lot of argument over if it is as effective as claimed.

If you're up to making the mounts for a cross-flow, the radiator from a '92 Z-28 application (26-1/4" x 17" core) is very nearly a perfect fit in the opening. The problem with the Z-28 application is that they are almost always a plastic tank, aluminum core type radiator of only a max of 1-3/8" thick. If you search there are up to 4 core copper/brass radiator's in this core size. Look at U.S. Radiator's listings. The issue may be the hose bung size(s). The bungs are in the right places for the 2F/3FE, but I do not know about the size(s). I've been looking for one to work with an SBC so I don't know what is needed for a 2F/3FE.

 

[Moby]

I'm at the radiator research stage of my engine swap. Copper has a much higher heat transfer rate than does aluminum. The problem is the solder used to hold the fins to the tubes. It acts a bit like an insulator, which reduces the copper/brass radiator's heat loss ability to about that of an aluminum radiator. I think the c/b still has a slight advantage, but it's so small that it isn't relavent. There is some talk about a different method of fastening the fins to the tubes that results in better thermal transfer from the tubes to the fins, but there seems to be a lot of argument over if it is as effective as claimed.

If you're up to making the mounts for a cross-flow, the radiator from a '92 Z-28 application (26-1/4" x 17" core) is very nearly a perfect fit in the opening. The problem with the Z-28 application is that they are almost always a plastic tank, aluminum core type radiator of only a max of 1-3/8" thick. If you search there are up to 4 core copper/brass radiator's in this core size. Look at U.S. Radiator's listings. The issue may be the hose bung size(s). The bungs are in the right places for the 2F/3FE, but I do not know about the size(s). I've been looking for one to work with an SBC so I don't know what is needed for a 2F/3FE.

The bit about the solder is my understanding of the compromise with copper/brass as well. It's also my understanding, but again I'm no expert, that a bigger part is the ability to produce larger tubes. For example 2 1" tubes in an aluminum rad is often claimed to have the same efficiency as a 4 row copper/brass. Now, I don't know why that equates to better thermal transfer, but that's the argument that I've heard from multiple sources.

I'm in no rush to swap radiators again (for the 3rd time). I need to see how my new 4 row copper/brass and SPAL fans with a custom shroud do. The SPALs, although the claimed cfm is the same as my old Contour fans, seem to do better. If they don't make the nut the MarkVIII fan sitting under my bench is going in with a custom shroud on a cross flow aluminum universal unit (hopefully multi-pass) from AFCO, Griffin or the like.

 

[Beams37]

Question

So here are my two questions for the pros:

1: Everyone likes CFS ... How much would a replacement from there cost? I didn't see prices on their website.

2: How do you "epoxy" a small hole in your current radiator? What product should be used? And could it be done at home?

Thanks,

Josh

 

[Slowerthanu]

I have never found aluminum to be more efficient than brass/copper in a street driven application.

Point in case, most OEM Aluminum radiators have plastic end tanks, not only is this cheaper, it holds up better.

My 420HP Pontiac has plastic end tanks and never gets warm even during spirited canyon runs.

Using an aluminum radiator is covering up another problem in the system. A good engine driven fan/ shroud combo or an EXCELLENT electric fan combination, along with proper tuning and a properly sized brass radiator should cool any street motor without issues.

I have a buddy with a 650HP Mustang that has a stock radiator and it NEVER overheats.

 

[goodol84]

So here are my two questions for the pros:

1: Everyone likes CFS ... How much would a replacement from there cost? I didn't see prices on their website.

2: How do you "epoxy" a small hole in your current radiator? What product should be used? And could it be done at home?

Thanks,

Josh

anyone able to answer Josh's ?'s. I am curious as well.....

 

[ntsqd]

One of the things that I read in my research was that since the car mfg's buy metal by the pound that an aluminum radiator is less costly to them. Coupled with AL's greater strength than C/B at temperature means that the tubes can be wider, which is said to result in more direct coolant to tube surface area. My simple surface area calcs don't support that claim, so there must be something that I'm missing.

So here are my two questions for the pros:

1: Everyone likes CFS ... How much would a replacement from there cost? I didn't see prices on their website.

2: How do you "epoxy" a small hole in your current radiator? What product should be used? And could it be done at home?

Thanks,

Josh

Re #2; Are we talking about an aluminum or a C/B radiator? For a C/B I would suggest looking into pinching the tube closed (if possible) and soldering it.

For an epoxy I would start with looking for an epoxy that will work up to 300*F, at least. Then look for what it bonds to the best. Mfr's pages have this sort of info. The problem very likely won't be finding an epoxy to do this. The problem will be narrowing the field down to the best option.

 

[Moby]

One of the things that I read in my research was that since the car mfg's buy metal by the pound that an aluminum radiator is less costly to them. Coupled with AL's greater strength than C/B at temperature means that the tubes can be wider, which is said to result in more direct coolant to tube surface area. My simple surface area calcs don't support that claim, so there must be something that I'm missing.

I wish I had more data about why this claim is made but unfortunately I don't. I hear it all the time but that doesn't make it true.

For an epoxy I would start with looking for an epoxy that will work up to 300*F, at least. Then look for what it bonds to the best. Mfr's pages have this sort of info. The problem very likely won't be finding an epoxy to do this. The problem will be narrowing the field down to the best option.

At least in my experience the aluminum radiator repair industry uses special epoxy specific to the job. Whether or not that is necessary I don't know. I mean I hear of field repairs of aluminum radiators with JB Weld But FWIW a professional repair shop doesn't use run of the mill epoxy. For my repair the epoxy was heated to allow it to flow back into the corners of the tanks. Oh and the guy I used stressed repeatedly how import it is to get the surface clean. He used a combination of cleaning techniques, including bead blasting.

 

[chitown40]

So here are my two questions for the pros:

1: Everyone likes CFS ... How much would a replacement from there cost? I didn't see prices on their website.

2: How do you "epoxy" a small hole in your current radiator? What product should be used? And could it be done at home?

Thanks,

Josh

Radiators, automotive radiators, condenser, oem radiators, truck radiators

The 60 series radiator from them is a CSF brand radiator. They offer a lifetime warranty and free shipping. Search their site for a 1985 Toyota Land Cruiser radiator. It will work for all 60 series trucks including FJ62s. There is an Auto Trans cooler built-in. If you have a FJ60 you won't use it.

Their price is $242 and change.

 

[texast6]

another thumbs up for cfs

 

[natebobc]

New guy with stupid questions

Everyone always talks about the solder on Copper/brass radiators as the limiting factor. What about the paint? Doesn't it act at an insulator between the copper and the air? I was thinking this is another advantage to aluminum radiators. FYI, I have had a reworked CB radiator and a summit aluminum now for a week with a V8. The aluminum has made a huge difference.

Can anyone comment on the seal between the front of the cruiser and the radiator? I have seen a few people remove it. I was thinking it is important for keeping hot air in the engine compartment from just recirculating through the radiator vs cool air from the front coming through, regardless of having a fan shroud. I didn't have it before I went aluminum but now I am wondering if that was my problem. Anyway the aluminum doesn't have a shroud or the seal and no problems. I haven't done a hot day test yet but I will let you know how it goes.

 

[Elbert]

Can someone remind me where the nut-inserts go... I'm swapping back to a aftermarket 4 core radaitor and wanted to make sure I have the nut inserts in the right place. Don't they mount the shroud to the radiator? I've forgotten the OEM mount setup for the fan shroud.. I need to come up with some bolts as well (if anyone knows the size off-hand). the ones that mate the shroud to the radiator.

I bought the 4 core radiator from autozone...as I had one a few years ago and it was well made and came with eveything except the radiator cap.

 

[VTCDN]

aluminum to be more efficient than brass/copper== Crap to the % x factor.. DUH


Number one !!!!is the RAD ,is the the best rad to keep the engine and other crap we do from breaking.

I have purchased a few new 4 row cores in complete rads due to FJ in usa was the only types that were sold in huge numbers , BJs were very small numbers and huge $$$, just sweat solder the tanks over to the original .. IF you can't do this , FIND A REAL rad shop.

VT

 

[haryv]

With parts becoming more obsolete and scarce, It may be a good idea to bring some parts with you on long travels. I seen a picture of a fj60 that had two radiators. I though, mm that is strange. After giving it more thought I said mmm I wonder if that radiator is a spare in case the primary fails. Well, that would make a whole lot of sense. Why not! why go to the grief of being stranded some where waiting days for replacement radiator when you have one under the hood!

Just think of the items that can suddenly go and leave you stranded and if practice carry them, or there rebuild kits on board.