Bent Rear Lower Control Arm - Any Recommendations?

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Haha, have never seen that happen!

Kurt, any chance you know the difference in length between the 200 and 80/100 lower control arms?

Nope, but I can certainly measure... I've got several of each in the shop. We stock the SPC/OME for the 80/100, we have the SPC for the 200 and I have OEM take-offs (some damaged take-offs) for the 80, 100 and 200. I'll grab some numbers.
 
Replace or straighten/sleeve if they bend. But what do you do if they streeeeeeetch?

View attachment 1143383




We replaced them :D

These are the OE Toyota lower control arms on the Canguro Racing 200 Series. Following a few years of racing including the Baja 1000, several Vegas to Reno and others... they were due for fresh arms.


Holy crap. That is just nuts. That is my new one for the day. Crazy.
 
Nope, but I can certainly measure... I've got several of each in the shop. We stock the SPC/OME for the 80/100, we have the SPC for the 200 and I have OEM take-offs (some damaged take-offs) for the 80, 100 and 200. I'll grab some numbers.
I believe the 80 and 100 are the same length but differ in mounting bolt size (80 larger diameter.... 18 vs 16mm?).
 
I believe the 80 and 100 are the same length but differ in mounting bolt size (80 larger diameter.... 18 vs 16mm?).

Correct, 80/100 are one unit (OME for example simply offers them with a sleeve kit for either the 80 or 100, SPC and others do specific ones that have different bushings). The 200 is unique and I'll try and remember to measure :D
 
Replace or straighten/sleeve if they bend. But what do you do if they streeeeeeetch?

View attachment 1143383




We replaced them :D

These are the OE Toyota lower control arms on the Canguro Racing 200 Series. Following a few years of racing including the Baja 1000, several Vegas to Reno and others... they were due for fresh arms.

Kurt,
If only one side gets stretched, would it be a noticeable alignment difference on highway?
 
Kurt,
If only one side gets stretched, would it be a noticeable alignment difference on highway?

Sure. These arms were appox. 3/8" out of spec, that could be closer to 1/2" at the wheel depending on what the other LCA is doing.
 
We've got several used take-off OEM lower Control arms. Other than that we use the Icon billet adjustable arms which are really nice. The UHMW sliding pads on the bottom may seem overkill but they really work to help slide up rocks and position the tire on the rock to make it up the obstacles. since they are billet aluminum and very beefy they do not bend and since they are straight, they keep the driveshaft out of rocks.
 
I just ordered a set from metal tech. I'll post a fallow up ;) they look solid and come in adjustable or fixed . Great price to
 
For a 200? Got a link?
 
Hey bring this thread back up I bent my RLCA this last weekend how’s the metal tech working for you TIA
I gotta mention this. The jam nut on them requires you to cut some of the arm mount away for clearance. I just think it is ridiculous that a commercial off the shelf part, requires you to modify your frame. That’s the point of a commercial off the shelf part, NOT having to modify major components.
 
I gotta mention this. The jam nut on them requires you to cut some of the arm mount away for clearance. I just think it is ridiculous that a commercial off the shelf part, requires you to modify your frame. That’s the point of a commercial off the shelf part, NOT having to modify major components.
Thanx Rob and thanx for getting my skids out early too 🙌🏽 You have any recommendations beside the metal tech that are beefy?
 
Thanx Rob and thanx for getting my skids out early too 🙌🏽 You have any recommendations beside the metal tech that are beefy?
Unfortunately no. As far as raw strength, the metal techs are the strongest I know of.

Factory arms are .188 DOM, the same material as SPC. I used to recommend the Icon lowers as I ran those on my FJ from Tellico to hammers. Yet once I saw them fail from someone on here when under a 200, I stopped that.
 
Unfortunately no. As far as raw strength, the metal techs are the strongest I know of.

Factory arms are .188 DOM, the same material as SPC. I used to recommend the Icon lowers as I ran those on my FJ from Tellico to hammers. Yet once I saw them fail from someone on here when under a 200, I stopped that.
Thanks Rob wishing you and all the guys at budbuilt a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year 🎄🎄🎄🎅🎉🎊
 
How do you do fellow lower link benders?

I'm new to this part of the truck. Just noticed this sweet bit of trail damage.

The question: buy new OEM, figure out who can bend and sleeve, buy new aftermarket (which ones), and if OEM do I only repace the bent one (or better to do in pairs)? Don't think I need adjustability, because I'll just cause more weird problems with getting settings wrong. Probably.

Any insights from experience is helpful. This truck does see more difficult trails (obvi).

Thanks in advance!

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That's a pretty good bend. I'd try to bend it back straight if you have a press, but you probably wont get it perfectly straight with a good kink like that. If not, then just buy a new OEM one and shore it up with E&E LCA brace or welded angle iron.

No need to replace in pairs unless your bushings are also worn out.
 
I've got a set of Metal Techs off my 5th Gen, Johnny Joints on both ends, look like they should fit as far as length, but guessing bolt may be larger. Considering trying them out if they fit, can't imagine they aren't beefy enough
 

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