Bent Out of Shape: Rear Axle Trouble After a Nasty Knock (1 Viewer)

[yOHda]

Yes, we are all 100% guessing as this is something kind of impossible to figure out through pics. You won’t know exactly until you get it to a mechanic.

 

[bloc]

There was someone on here with a similar hit and the rear brakes were dragging at certain spots in the axle rotation. 100% a bent shaft. I don’t remember whether they had control arm problems though.

 

[warriorofthelost]

I finally got back in town and took the LX to a shop to get a handle on the damage. They tried to do an alignment to figure out what is wrong, and came back with pitch and caster values out of spec as follows:

According to the shop owner, it means the rear differential got damaged when the other vehicle hit (the rear passenger wheel) and the entire rear differential ('rear end' so to speak) will have to be replaced. He did go over the underbody with a flashlight and reported that there was no frame damage or any other damage. That said, he didn't remove anything or dig into the rear drivetrain to see specifically what the issue might be as he said the whole diff / rear end simply has to be swapped.

This is quite disappointing, as it is a poor harvest season at our farm so far and he put the damaged at 2800 (USD, ~3800 CAD) at parts for the used replacement rear end/diff and 1500 (USD, ~2000 CAD) for labor, totaling around ~4500 USD.

A few questions for the experts here:

Are rear differentials / rear ends generally replaced whole or is it worth digging into it to see what specifically is damaged? Is rebuilding an option?

Should I get a second opinion? Maybe at the dealers?

What should be the labor cost here that I should aim for as I talk to various shops? Is this a difficult job which needs a very specialist mechanic / Lexus dealer?

Regarding the part cost, I see it selling used online for ~$2100 to $3000 (USA sellers online). What to look for while buying?

Lexus doesn't have a part number for the whole thing as I understand they don't sell it as a complete unit but individual parts. Is this correct? I wanted to see what a new one would cost.

Is it realistic for me to do the work myself? I have done some minor things like changing spark plugs etc. before.


Thank you so much for your help in this difficult time!

 

[Boston Mangler]

I finally got back in town and took the LX to a shop to get a handle on the damage. They tried to do an alignment to figure out what is wrong, and came back with pitch and caster values out of spec as follows:

According to the shop owner, it means the rear differential got damaged when the other vehicle hit (the rear passenger wheel) and the entire rear differential ('rear end' so to speak) will have to be replaced. He did go over the underbody with a flashlight and reported that there was no frame damage or any other damage. That said, he didn't remove anything or dig into the rear drivetrain to see specifically what the issue might be as he said the whole diff / rear end simply has to be swapped.

This is quite disappointing, as it is a poor harvest season at our farm so far and he put the damaged at 2800 (USD, ~3800 CAD) at parts for the used replacement rear end/diff and 1500 (USD, ~2000 CAD) for labor, totaling around ~4500 USD.

A few questions for the experts here:

Are rear differentials / rear ends generally replaced whole or is it worth digging into it to see what specifically is damaged? Is rebuilding an option?

Should I get a second opinion? Maybe at the dealers?

What should be the labor cost here that I should aim for as I talk to various shops? Is this a difficult job which needs a very specialist mechanic / Lexus dealer?

Regarding the part cost, I see it selling used online for ~$2100 to $3000 (USA sellers online). What to look for while buying?

Lexus doesn't have a part number for the whole thing as I understand they don't sell it as a complete unit but individual parts. Is this correct? I wanted to see what a new one would cost.

Is it realistic for me to do the work myself? I have done some minor things like changing spark plugs etc. before.


Thank you so much for your help in this difficult time!

If the shop owner told you the “differential” is damaged verbatim, I would 1000% get a 2nd opinion.

The differential is the center piece that bolts into the housing that holds the gears. Even if it was damaged and exploded to bits, it wouldn’t effect alignment

Me might of meant the housing, the housing may be bent.

But if he’s a shop owner and using the wrong simple terminology, I’d get the hell away from them

 

[Broski]

If the shop owner told you the “differential” is damaged verbatim, I would 1000% get a 2nd opinion.

The differential is the center piece that bolts into the housing that holds the gears. Even if it was damaged and exploded to bits, it wouldn’t effect alignment

Me might of meant the housing, the housing may be bent.

But if he’s a shop owner and using the wrong simple terminology, I’d get the hell away from them

I think your splitting hairs, also he in Canada so terminology could be different.

But it never hurts to get second opinion

 

[Broski]

For sure you can do the job your self.
Most part out guys and junk yards only sale the hole rear end.

 

[Boston Mangler]

I think your splitting hairs, also he in Canada so terminology could be different.

But it never hurts to get second opinion

Ahh.. missed the Canada part. Valid

 

[warriorofthelost]

Do you guys think it is worth paying someone to take things apart and see what's wrong? It might be a couple hundred more in diagnostics, so maybe I'm better off just swapping the whole differential thing if that is the eventual outcome.

 

[bloc]

No it’s probably not worth investigating further. I’d bet the axle could be swapped in the time it would take to disassemble the unit and inspect it.

It’s actually not a very difficult job if you have the tools.

If searching for the part in the states you’d look for a whole rear axle assembly. This will include the housing, differential in the middle, and the axle shafts and hubs. Likely the brakes too, but yours may be ok.

I would absolutely have them double check the panhard rod mount on the frame though. That link probably took the majority of the force from that impact. If the axle side of it is damaged that’ll get replaced. But the frame side will remain, need to insure it is in good shape.

 

[Boston Mangler]

Do you guys think it is worth paying someone to take things apart and see what's wrong? It might be a couple hundred more in diagnostics, so maybe I'm better off just swapping the whole differential thing if that is the eventual outcome.

I agree with @bloc

Disassembly isn’t required to see if something’s bent on the housing.

If you have a friend with a digital angle finder, pull the wheels off and measure the faces of each rotor. That’d tell ya right away.

Also agree on replacing the whole dang assembly at once. It’s not hard at all if ya got the tools.

Now…. Finding one might be a chore if the 200 has their own that isn’t shared with anything else

Maybe someone will chime in if there’s a compatible rear axle assembly…. Sequoia maybe? If so, those are a lot more plentiful

 

[warriorofthelost]

I think Sequoia and Tundra have 10.5" diffs while LC has 9.5" so that is a no go.

I would absolutely have them double check the panhard rod mount on the frame though. That link probably took the majority of the force from that impact. If the axle side of it is damaged that’ll get replaced. But the frame side will remain, need to insure it is in good shape.

Great point! I should triple check if everything else is indeed in good shape before putting in good money into the repair. On that note, can you think of anything else which should be checked to ensure everything else is in good working order?

It’s actually not a very difficult job if you have the tools.

I'm guessing the main tools are a lift and a secondary jack to securely lower and raise the new rear end?

__

Lastly, I am seeing prices ranging from 1700 USD for a 2008 with 3.9 ratio & 100k miles vs 2300 USD for a 2015 with 10k miles. Do these generally last a long time and are mostly problem free? Or is it worth paying the premium for a newer one?

 

[Boston Mangler]

I think Sequoia and Tundra have 10.5" diffs while LC has 9.5" so that is a no go.



Great point! I should triple check if everything else is indeed in good shape before putting in good money into the repair. On that note, can you think of anything else which should be checked to ensure everything else is in good working order?


I'm guessing the main tools are a lift and a secondary jack to securely lower and raise the new rear end?

__

Lastly, I am seeing prices ranging from 1700 USD for a 2008 with 3.9 ratio & 100k miles vs 2300 USD for a 2015 with 10k miles. Do these generally last a long time and are mostly problem free? Or is it worth paying the premium for a newer one?

Before ya go shelling out the cash for a new rear assembly, I’d get a 2nd or 3rd opinion.

I’m still have a very hard time believing the housing bent and nothing else

 

[Broski]

Floor jack, jacks stands and some basic hand tools.
I say go for it, I would go for the cheapest one you can find with up to a 100K miles on it.

 

[LX4x4]

Try to pretend you have insurance and go to a body shop and they can find out what is bent.
Links and panhard etc and other brackets.

It is not too difficult but I think it is very heavy you will need various jacks to not crush yourself, and obviously swapping the brake and rotor over.. Possible AHC disconnect or dismount if that is also involved.
You also want to tighten the links when the vehicle is on the ground. Lazy shops don't and then the vehicle could sit a bit uneven.

I don't know if you need to adjust backlash or such, depending how complete the rear end is.

 

[PDoyle]

This one popped up on an email to me a couple days ago.

https://www.copart.com/lot/57006124/2010-lexus-lx-570-sc-columbia?utm_source=email&utm_campaign=VehicleAlert_US&utm_medium=email_automated&utm_term=vehicle_alert&utm_content=Image

 

[bloc]

The only mildly problematic part on these rear ends are the axle bearings. Most last, a few don’t. I had to do one by 150k, and curt from cruiser outfitters said they are seeing more and more. But this is out of tens of thousands of vehicles produced over the years.

Sequoia axle will be wider even if you could get the correct ratio and the links happen to work.

 

[warriorofthelost]

I took my vehicle for a second opinion, and the kind shop owner kept the car overnight to check it out thoroughly. According to him:
• The frame and all mounts (panhard, control arms) on the frame are completely fine and undamaged.
• The panhard rod, LCAs, and UCAs are bent. The panhard (lateral movement control) bar, in particular, is badly bent.
• The rear axle is displaced towards the driver’s side, as the attached pictures clearly illustrate.

I was told that I need a new complete rear end (used), lower/upper control arms, and a panhard rod. The shop quoted $1,500 for the labor.

Given the new information and photos, I have a few questions:
1. Is the quoted labor rate fair? If not, what should I aim for?
2. I’ve found the necessary parts for around $2,500. Do you have any suggestions on where I could source a cheaper axle?

Any other advice or potential pitfalls to watch out for would be deeply appreciated!

 

[warriorofthelost]

some more pictures, with measures on each side clearly shown.

 

[Sandroad]

I would be fine with paying $1500 labor for that job. It will take some time to R&R get everything right.

 

[warriorofthelost]

I found someone selling a complete rear end for a good price (1500).

However, the rear end is regeared at 3.91. Would I be able to just use this or do I need to regear the front diff to match as well?