Before your hood lock fails, got a backup plan?

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Feb 4, 2015
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Today i was going to do the 7 pin mod on my truck. After opening up my dash, i came across an old car alarm that the PO never told me about. So since i was already there, i made up my mind to remove that alarm before it starts giving me problems. While removing it, i opened my hood (this turned out to be a good thing) to remove the alarm wires going to the battery.

It took me about an hour to do the 7 pin mod, and remove the alarm. I finely had everything done, and started screwing on the last two items, the levers for the fuel, and hood release. I reach down, and tested the fuel door lever, everything was fine, next i tried the hood lever. As i pull on it, the cable broke off up inside it's casing. Right then i started thinking to myself, what would i do if this happen miles from home, how would i get my hood open?

I then did a search on Mud to see how other members got their hoods open. I came across 3 different ideas, the first was to reach up from underneath the truck to unscrew the anti theft latch. I have to say, since i have a hidden winch mount in the way, there is no way that would work for me. Plus from what i read this is a real pain in the ass way to open your hood, and You'll need arms about 4 feet long. Next was an idea to have one person push down real hard on the hood, while someone else pulled on the cable with vice grips, since my cable snapped off up inside it's casing, this was a no go. Last, i came across what a member called plan "C" this involves busting the plastic grill out of your truck to get at the latch, smashing the grill out of my truck is a DEFINITE no go, so plan "C" is out.

So i though to myself, we need to come up with a plan before we are locked out, So this is the idea i came up with.



First i started out with some .095 cable, windshield washer tubing, shrink tubing, and some crimp fittings.
upload_2017-3-15_21-14-52.webp



Now i took one end of the cable, and looped it around the hood release arm inside the hood latch, and crimped it in place. The release arm that this cable goes around is the same release arm that the inside hood release uses.
upload_2017-3-15_21-18-12.webp



Now i attached the rubber tubing to the inside hook release cable.
upload_2017-3-15_21-20-50.webp



I formed the other end of the cable into a loop, and covered it with shrink tubing.
upload_2017-3-15_21-24-2.webp



This is what the finished product looks like.
upload_2017-3-15_21-25-40.webp


Please take note, this cable is totally hidden from view behind my grill when not in use, and is only pulled out through the grill opening in case of an emergency. Now i know some member may like this idea, and some may not. But at least with this in place, if your hood release fails, you've got a backup way to open your hood. And we Mud members, are all about backup plans, right?
And before anyone asks, yes i am going to replace the inside hood cable, this is just for emergency's.
 
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Simple, yet effective. Also make it easier when doing something where you have to open a d close the hood a few times. That bit of walking, time after time, can really drop the morale when on a stool or creeper and having to get up and walk over, open the door, and pull the latch repeatedly. Anyway, great job. I dig it!
 
I've done this on the K5 years ago, not nearly as elegant as above, though. Came in real handy when the hood cable did snap.
And I do find myself using it more frequently when I need to open the hood but I'm too lazy to get the keys and open the door...
 
A while back my hood was very difficult to close. Slamming it like you wanted to kill it was the only way..i decided one day to fix it. I ripped everything apart, adjusted it, oiled it, put it back together. Pulled the hood release latch and the hood didn't pop. Stuck solid. I was racking my brains for 20 mins or more on how i could get it open. Then i noticed the fuel flap sticking out....:mad:
 
I recall a member of this or another forum having an under the bonnet fire in the middle of nowhere, the first thing that melted was his bonnet release! I am not sure of the facts but it is possible if he had a battery mod that put the positive near the bonnet cable and it shorted out or whatever, the result was his car was completely burnt out! The main point is you can have all the extinqauishers in the world, if you cannot disconnect the battyer the fire will reignite.

This is a great mod and well posted.

Regards

Dave
 
Either end of the stock hood release cable could break or even be pinched somewhere in the middle and go unnoticed until the hood is closed. @Rifleman, your backup should work regardless. Nice solution!
 
This happened to me years ago in a 98 Tacoma... I broke my grill lol.

This is an awesome idea, it's going on the list.

Thanks!!!!
 
I actually did something like this on my Nissan Leaf. The charge door in front is released by an electric solenoid. One day my door wouldn't open, which is a big deal when you need to charge the car every day. Long story short, some kind of rodent had chewed the wire and neutralized the solenoid. Repairing the wire wasn't difficult but in case the rat came back, I wanted an alternate way to get the door open.
 
Keep us posted on how you solved this.
I got lucky. My cable was just a little stretched. I dowsed the release with silicon spray and from underneath used a long metal rod to apply pressure while my daughter worked the release. The weekend trip was saved.

I will be replacing the cable and making a secondary pull.
 
...The main point is you can have all the extinguishers in the world, if you cannot disconnect the battery the fire will reignite.
^^^
This is why a dash-switched and failed-closed relay, and/or auto-breaker, directly after the tap into the factory charging path for all after market wiring and devices is critical to power use and safety.
The faster, safer way to isolate every 'bright idea' of ours from the engineered systems...the better.

Tho, IMO this is a great time to add a current shunt in the circuit - and a dash-mount display for E&A monitoring - to determine baseline power generation and consumption rates for any given scenario.
This can be correlated to engine rpm for near real-time use-case power profiles to aid in aggregate power efficiency calculations.

Orrrr you can see which direction of the windshield wipers requires more current... at what speed.
It really is a Pandora's (power) box.
 
^^^
This is why a dash-switched and failed-closed relay, and/or auto-breaker, directly after the tap into the factory charging path for all after market wiring and devices is critical to power use and safety.
The faster, safer way to isolate every 'bright idea' of ours from the engineered systems...the better.

Tho, IMO this is a great time to add a current shunt in the circuit - and a dash-mount display for E&A monitoring - to determine baseline power generation and consumption rates for any given scenario.
This can be correlated to engine rpm for near real-time use-case power profiles to aid in aggregate power efficiency calculations.

Orrrr you can see which direction of the windshield wipers requires more current... at what speed.
It really is a Pandora's (power) box.
I forget what country it is, but they require an external bumper-mounted battery disconnect on all vehicles.

Then people shut them off and steal the battery "key" to piss off the owners.
 
The main point is you can have all the extinqauishers in the world, if you cannot disconnect the battyer the fire will reignite.
This is one of the main reasons why when the fire department shows up to any car fire, one of the first things they do is open the hood, and cut the battery cables to prevent a source of reignition.

.
 
This is one of the main reasons why when the fire department shows up to any car fire, one of the first things they do is open the hood, and cut the battery cables to prevent a source of reignition.

.
Hopefully, FD's have a data base showing the locations of batteries in all makes and models. My X5's battery is in the trunk, under the floor and a plastic cover. It'd take Sherlock Holms and @tomrayjr 's sawzall, 'cause the trunk is electronically unlocked and we all know what that means - only works when you don't want it to. :rolleyes:
 
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