beefed 80 axles vs. 60/14b

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I'm guessing that a 1-ton front has been done in an 80 before, but it seems like it's not as easy as it looks. A chevy housing is PS offset, and the Ford 3rd is HP...where's the interference/problems?

Depends on how wide you want your WMS. It will get very tight mounting coils between the D60 diff & knuckle & lining the coil buckets to the framerail. Track bar location may be an issue too. A 35 spline 60 in the rear would suffice, the 14 bolt is too clunky unless heavily shaved. You gonna 3 link the front or ?...
 
If you have never broken anything with stock axles, then just get longs....

To much talk of building rigs up with parts you don't need. Wheel it hard find out what it can really do. If you start snapping longs (doubtful) Then look to other options....
 
80s!!!!!

one tons are for 44"s, 383s, and Jeeps ;) The diffs will drag the ground with 38"s on them.

Unless you are a mad-wheeling-trailer-queen, get the chromos and stay Yota :idea:

I beat the hell out of my chromo mini axles with a 3.4l, full exo, and 37"s and dont have many problems. If you have a real fat piggy, just done go bigger than 39"s with the 80 stuff. I just watch the Slee guys replace two ring gear with a raeeelllllyyyy fat piggy. Both front tires were five feet off the ground (boy scouts honor) at full throttle when one broke. It was worth it :beer::beer:

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If you really want to sell them though, Ill bring my torch up this weekend :grinpimp:

Or go Diamonds. . . . .44"s on Yota

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At least in that picture we were not fixing the axle but cleaning the alternator and swapping the brushes. :D

Truck was built for UA, but we had it done 90% for CM07.
Alright, where is the build page and pictures/details on this beast? :flipoff2:
 
44" tires would be about stock, but with the weight of bigger tires, I would consider 5.99 more reasonable for 38-40, and the 7.xx+ more suitable for larger than 40s. And who's gonna complain about a better crawl ratio?
 
44" tires would be about stock, but with the weight of bigger tires, I would consider 5.99 more reasonable for 38-40, and the 7.xx+ more suitable for larger than 40s. And who's gonna complain about a better crawl ratio?




That would be just too cool :cool: 44's with what a 4" diff lift?

I know 80's had multiple gears ? 3:90 ? 4:11 ? :confused:

screw the better crawl ratio I want to drive it too where I want to wheel it :D ,use it, and to see the looks on peoples faces,


IH8TrailerQueens :grinpimp:
 
Tirediron runs the 5.99s with 40's and is very happy with the streetability considering the 3FE, I believe. And being a little over geared wont really affect highway cruising unless you normally cruise 90, 7.xx w/ 44's and stock tranny would be reasonable on the highway doing 70ish.
 
mmmm, stay with what you got. I ran 36 TSL SX's with stock gears and stock axles, open in front, Aussied in rear... no issues and I'm kinda hard on things (look at the dents in my wagon).
I say first break what you got and then go chromo, then if that ain't enough, go to something else.... I think the headache ain't worth running <38's

ANd hey, if you chromo and then hate it.... gimme a call and I'll buy them!
 
I'm running into the same questions... However, I wheel very hard. I'm breaking 80 birfs with 35's... Now my truck is sitting, needing Longs and 5.29's if I keep these axles. I'm planning on running 40's with j's and a lot of cutting. I just don't know if spending the $2000 to get my axles where I want them is better than selling my factory locked axles for D60s... Or Rockwells.

I've already nixed the portal idea because of parts being harder to find...
 
Christo, you seem very hard on stuff. If you were to do a fullbodied LC, not doing any EXTREME rock crawling, but Tellico stuff with a heavy foot, would you stick with stock axles, or would you go 1-tons?
 

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