beefed 80 axles vs. 60/14b

[Josh83]

Assuming I am to the limits of my stock 80 axles, am I better off going full chromo treatment, or going to a 60/14b combo?

I could do all the work myself. Additionally, I could sell my stock 80 axles to a mini trucker and recoupe most of my costs for the one tons. But at the same time the chromo 80 axles would be less work. Would the offset on the tcase give me problems with the 14b? I would't mind a swap to some part time case with a centered offset.

Cost aside, what would you guys do, and why?

 

[Josh83]

I'm posting from me Treo so I can't edit.

I am looking at my options because I am running bias ply 36" swampers and I'm wanting to add a front locker. I am also considering 38's in a year or so.

The one tons would be stock for now other than gears and lockers. I am also willing to do surgery to fit them full width.

 

[Mace]

how hard do you wheel?

 

[wngrog]

With 36's you are not at the limits of those axles with Chromo stuff by any stretch.

 

[GreasedPiggy]

It's your driveshaft that will give you some issues.

If you go with the 1350 yoke, your (stock) deflection
angle will be about 20 degrees. The 1310 is about
1/3 less strong but has close to 30 degrees of functional
deflection. Modifying the 1350 to go to higher angles
almost always will reduce the strength a bit.

Your rear driveshaft could be made into a CV type.
Then the offset to your TC is less of an issue, when
combined with normal vertical pinion travel.

With any wheel over 35" and fairly hard wheeling in
mind, you may start to see the 1-tons as something
to give you options in the future.

 

[Josh83]

I know I'm not at the limits of chromo, but I guess what I'm asking is, is it worth spending the money on the 80 axles or should I just spend the money on the one tons. So, stock one tons vs. chromo 80's. I've never broken a stock 80 birf, but I try my best to be careful and I like the loud pedal. I do find myself backing off of things because I'm worried about the axles.

 

[alkaline747trio]

With 36s and open front, I would be all over the skinny pedal. Anything over that is a stretch though. For 38s+, 1-tons are about the best bet. I plan on snagging a Chevy 60 housing and a Ford 60 diff for the front to be highpinion and PS offset. For the rear, I'll probably go custom housing or just get it re-tubed. Then I'd be happy up to 42s, and be rock stable.

 

[Josh83]

Wouldn't you have to run HUGE lift to fit a hp60 under an 80? Are you planning to go full width with your setup? I'm running a fairly low setup (j's + 20mm all around) and I really want more stability. if I don't go full width I'm going to tub the wheelwells and try to get it down to a 2.5" OME setup.

 

[alkaline747trio]

Full width for sure, and the diff offset is enough to the outside that it shouldn't interfere with the oil pan, but if it does I might modify the pan. I want 2.5" SAW coil-overs, 3-link, and HP60/14B. You dont have to go full-width, you could just run it a few inches over stock, bust out the sawzall, and go with what you've got. If you need full-widths, then you need to fun a sawzall.

 

[LandCrusher'70]

Cost aside, what would you guys do, and why?

I would run Volvo portals. Why? Because you gain lots of ground clearance, you can use a standard lift, and you can run large meats without worry. TiredIronGRB's writeup explains how to do it. He made it look easy.

BTW: I understand that there are now disc brakes available for these axles.

 

[Mace]

how hard do you wheel?

you never answered this..

If you have never broken anythign with 36" tires and only want to do 38's...

1 tons are pretty pricy for little benefit and lots of headaches.

Also, how much do you have to spend?

 

[Tapage]

I would run Volvo portals.

All in all I thought this it's a nice option .. coz are really upgrade in ground clearance and streght.

I believe with a mild wheeling you will keep pretty nice in 80 series housings with cromo axles .. 0 headaches and 100 reliability ..

Also I would considere the Alvaro issue with the steering box running big meats ( this also aply to me ) but my conclusion it's

1. Cromo axles
2. Portals ..

 

[concretejungle]

I agree with Mace fo' sure. Go break an axle first, then you know you need to upgrade something. Then, make the decision.

 

[Mace]

Volvo portals are not that strong without upgrading them as well.

If you are gonna upgrade, do it right..

 

[alkaline747trio]

I have yet to see numbers or hear how a beefed Volvo compares to beefed 80 axles. I guess I'm ignorant, but I didnt think there were any worthwhile upgrades for the Volvos, and that the best/only real strength upgrade from built 80 axles were 1-tons.

 

[concretejungle]

i also thought that because the volvos have the reduction boxes at each wheel, for that reason the stress was not very great at all on the axle shafts?

 

[Mace]

yes, the reduction at the axle ends does reduce the forces on the shafts themselves.

And there are upgrades for everything.. It just depends on how much you have to spend..

 

[wngrog]

I have yet to see numbers or hear how a beefed Volvo compares to beefed 80 axles. I guess I'm ignorant, but I didnt think there were any worthwhile upgrades for the Volvos, and that the best/only real strength upgrade from built 80 axles were 1-tons.

There are some good Volvo parts out there, but the biggest 'upgrade' is the ground clearance without a stupid lift.

I would do 5.99:1 Volvo's all day long before I went to the trouble of doing a 1 ton front axle in an 80 (rear is easy)

Spend the jack on the front axle. There are some great parts out there.

 

[alkaline747trio]

I'm guessing that a 1-ton front has been done in an 80 before, but it seems like it's not as easy as it looks. A chevy housing is PS offset, and the Ford 3rd is HP...where's the interference/problems?

 

[projektdotnet]

Longfield Super Axles . Friend has a 40 running 38.5 IROK Bias with stock axles (no cromo) and every now and then he replaces a birf if he wheels with too much skinny pedal but otherwise its fine.