Bearing thrust washer wear, normal?

[bhsdriller]

Is this normal wear on the washer? Using the trail gear kit, had the nut torqued to 35 ft/lbs.

Locknut

• bhsdriller
• Dec 5, 2018

I was getting some noise that sounded kind of like a loose bearing. Should I go tighter on the nut?

 

[inkpot]

Normal for being too loose

 

[Bambusiero]

Was just into that a couple of days ago, and mine look like that as well, only with deeper grooves. (but I remember they already were grooved last time, so it might be old news)
So - same question. Is the groove a problem?
Was wondering if replacement is a good idea?

No signs of any other issues on mine.
Spindle surface step (from inner bearing race spin wear) - barely able to feel.
Bearings - smooth.
In fact, the whole adjustment nut preload thing was a question because the bearing are so smooth.
With the adjustment nut way over-tightened (for grease squeeze out), could spin the tire with just one finger.
So, basically, nothing to judge how tight to go.
So I "tightened by feel" (guessed), and took it out on the freeway for 15 miles or so on a cool evening - hubs mildly warm - OK I guess.
Have the feeling a little tighter wouldn't hurt?

 

[shocktower]

Was just into that a couple of days ago, and mine look like that as well, only with deeper grooves. (but I remember they already were grooved last time, so it might be old news)
So - same question. Is the groove a problem?
Was wondering if replacement is a good idea?

No signs of any other issues on mine.
Spindle surface step (from inner bearing race spin wear) - barely able to feel.
Bearings - smooth.
In fact, the whole adjustment nut preload thing was a question because the bearing are so smooth.
With the adjustment nut way over-tightened (for grease squeeze out), could spin the tire with just one finger.
So, basically, nothing to judge how tight to go.
So I "tightened by feel" (guessed), and took it out on the freeway for 15 miles or so on a cool evening - hubs mildly warm - OK I guess.
Have the feeling a little tighter wouldn't hurt?

Replace them I have had a worn one like that and I had to buy a new spindle, I now always replace them

 

[Rifleman]

Replace them I have had a worn one like that and I had to buy a new spindle, I now always replace them

Or just flip it over to the other side if it's got no wear on it.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I've used them in similar condition when time was against me to get it buttoned up again.
Use a mill bastard file, or some emery paper on a hard flat surface to debur them.

Order a replacement so you can change it out next time you're in there

 

[mudgudgeon]

Agreed that bearings have been too loose.

 

[Bambusiero]

But if you flip over the grooved washer, then the adjustment nut is bridging across the groove.
That could give unpredictable and variable preload results, that could relax with time (exactly what you don't want to happen).
Also, the grooves on mine have a tiny raised rim, which would be getting crushed, some, as you tighten.
Too iffy, IMO. Would rather keep the perfectly formed groove in contact with it's bearing race, or replace with nice new flat.

 

[mudgudgeon]

But if you flip over the grooved washer, then the adjustment nut is bridging across the groove.
That could give unpredictable and variable preload results, that could relax with time (exactly what you don't want to happen).
Also, the grooves on mine have a tiny raised rim, which would be getting crushed, some, as you tighten.
Too iffy, IMO.

Make your own judgement, but recurring Will alleviate the issues you raise.
If it's lightly scored and burred, you can make do. If it's deeply grooved with large burrs and galling of the metal, toss them away

 

[Bambusiero]

So, if properly pre-loaded, should never see a bearing race groove or rotary polishing?

 

[Rifleman]

But if you flip over the grooved washer, then the adjustment nut is bridging across the groove.
That could give unpredictable and variable preload results, that could relax with time (exactly what you don't want to happen).
Also, the grooves on mine have a tiny raised rim, which would be getting crushed, some, as you tighten.
Too iffy, IMO. Would rather keep the perfectly formed groove in contact with it's bearing race, or replace with nice new flat.

This all comes down to judgement, and common sense, if you feel the washer is to damaged to reuse, then don't reuse it, It's as simple as that. YMMV

 

[jonheld]

Why would you reuse these parts if they show any signs of wear?
OEM thrust washer (90214-42030) $4.50 list price
OEM lock washer (90215-42025) $3 list price

 

[Rusty Marlin]

Because its 10 o'clock on the Friday night before you leave on The Trip that's been planned for like 6 months and a replacement washer didn't come in the rebuild kit.... and "F'it! I'm putting this pig back together and going on my trip!" All hypothetical of course.

That's why they would get reused.

On that note, I'll order a set before I tear into my spindles after the new year.

 

[bajaphile]

I was getting some noise that sounded kind of like a loose bearing. Should I go tighter on the nut?

Check the small screws that came with the kit for wear. The ones that come with the TG kit are too tall and will rub up against the drive flange and make a high pitch noise.

You can buy replacement lower profile panhead screws from Ace, or your favorite hardware store. They are M3 x 0.5 - 10

Every single 80 axle I've taken apart has some sort of groove on the thrust washer. Through the years and reading on here, I've tightened the axle nut at 35-45 ft-lbs (not inch-lbs) and generally been much better off.

 

[bhsdriller]

Check the small screws that came with the kit for wear. The ones that come with the TG kit are too tall and will rub up against the drive flange and make a high pitch noise.

You can buy replacement lower profile panhead screws from Ace, or your favorite hardware store. They are M3 x 0.5 - 10

Every single 80 axle I've taken apart has some sort of groove on the thrust washer. Through the years and reading on here, I've tightened the axle nut at 35-45 ft-lbs (not inch-lbs) and generally been much better off.

Yep I've already replaced them with the panhead screws, I have an extra washer i'll throw on and tighten it up some more.

Thanks for the input

 

[Tools R Us]

But if you flip over the grooved washer, then the adjustment nut is bridging across the groove.
That could give unpredictable and variable preload results, that could relax with time (exactly what you don't want to happen).
Also, the grooves on mine have a tiny raised rim, which would be getting crushed, some, as you tighten.
Too iffy, IMO. Would rather keep the perfectly formed groove in contact with it's bearing race, or replace with nice new flat.

If slight wear, we flatten them on the belt sander, more wear replace, they are cheap.

 

[Tools R Us]

So, if properly pre-loaded, should never see a bearing race groove or rotary polishing?

I wouldn't say none, there is always witness marking, but greatly reduced. Depending on rig setup and use, we preload with 30-35fl/lb on the inner nut, then the rest to FSM.

 

[shocktower]

Or just flip it over to the other side if it's got no wear on it.

Ususall if they are that worn, they are pretty close to done, and for the price of that washer VS a spindle or accident go new and be safe

 

[Bambusiero]

Why would you reuse these parts if they show any signs of wear?

Because its 10 o'clock on the Friday night...

Yup - 'xactly why!
But, now that I'm all torqued up about it I'll probably get new ones, go back in soon, replace and re-pre-load according to the excellent hints by @Tools R Us and @bajaphile.

But - screws? I have no screws. I seem to remember some screws in the rear hubs though. Did you mean that?

 

[Tools R Us]

...
But - screws? I have no screws. I seem to remember some screws in the rear hubs though. Did you mean that?

Some run the "upgrade" nuts from Trail Gear that have screws, somewhat like the rear.