Bearing grease in differential. Please Help. (1 Viewer)

[Hayes]

Hey all.
I'm new to this forum, but I thought I could drum up some good advice here.

I've got a '93 FZJ82 with 130k miles.
I've owned it for about a year and a half.
Love it.

Quick back-story:

When I bought it, the previous owner provided receipts from a Toyota dealer showing that the front wheel bearings had been repacked & serivced. Sweet.

Shortly after I bought it I had a local lube shop replace all the fluids in the diffs, t-case, and tranny. No comments from the shop, so I figure everything looked good.

Problem:

That was about a year (~20k miles) ago.
Today I decided to drain and fill the diffs and t-case again.
Everything looked nice--except what came out of the front differential.
Thick, nasty grey sludge. Looked like grease in the gear oil to me.
A call to the Toyota dealer supported my interpretation. They said I probably had a leaky bearing seal, and I likely had grease in my diff and oil in my wheel bearings.

Question:

1. What are the probable implications?
2. What would it take to trouble shoot and fix the problem(s)?

Caveat:

I wouldn't consider myself experienced with automotive mechanics. I can change fluids, sparkplugs, batteries, etc., I'm good at following instructions, and I'm not afraid of jumping into a project--if I know what I'm getting into.
But I've never attempted anything like tearing down a hub or an axle.

Don't want to pay to have it fixed.
Could I take care of this myself over a weekend?

Please advise.
What would you do?

Thanks.

Hayes

 

[IdahoDoug]

Hayes,

Welcome. This is likely the #1 most discussed topic here. It's not a big problem, so do a search.

So, by "local lube place" do you mean one of those places that is to service what McDonald's is to food? One of those places notorious for "whoops, forgot to change the front differential oh well get this customer out of here"? Or did you actually just have them check the fluids while you were there for an oil change?

DougM

 

[tarbe]

It is more likely moly grease from your birfield due to a leaking axle seal, than wheel bearing grease. Once you tear it apart you'll see why this is so.

Do a search on diff breathers, too. If your diff breather is plugged up, you'll suck air through your axle seal into the diff (when it cools) and bring birf grease through.

There is only so much grease in your knuckle/birf - if you had a bunch in your diff, guess where there is less than an ideal amount of grease?

I wouldn't wait long to get in there and straighten things out.

Where are you? Maybe someone on the board can help out.

 

[John E Davies]

Check out this page and you will get a great look at what you are facing to correct the problem:

http://george4wd.taskled.com/birfield.html

And one more:

http://www.colorado4x4.net/tech/knuckle_rebuild/knuckle_rebuild.html

I am getting ready to order parts Monday to do the same job (my first time). I bought 2 gallons of cheap gear oil at Walmart and plan to flush the axle 3 times before filling with Royal Purple synthetic - it's important to get as much of that nasty black glop out of there as possible.

John Davies
96 LX450

 

[MaddBaggins]

Ditto on what Tim said. I just repacked my birfs and all was good. When I pulled the oil seal there was gear oil right there waiting to run out. gave me a good idea how well that seal works if it is good. But if yor diff cant breathe then something has got to give.
Side-note: last time I changed my diff oil was b4 my lift was installed. The lift changed the angle of the frontaxle housing just a little. I believe that added to the the oil running out my birf when I pulled the axle. Birf grease and diff oil were not mixed and when I had done the diff last it was not overfilled. The slight change in angle sent more of the oil down the shaft and that didn't even occur to me until I pulled the axle and oil ran out.

 

[Hayes]

Yeah.
It was one of those places.
I'm less worried about how it happened, and more concerned about how to straighten it out.

I'll search the forum for info.
Thanks for the links, too.

I won't be able to attempt much until next weekend. If I flush as much of the grease out as possible, do you think it would be reasonable to continue driving it? It's my daily driver, and I figured I've been driving it around for god knows how long with that sludge--another week with clean gear oil couldn't make it worse?

I'm in Salt Lake City, Utah.
I'd definitely welcome assistance if anyone's bored.
I'd buy lunch, beers, or both.

Hayes

 

[MaddBaggins]

Use some cheap gear oil, don't go wheeling and try not to hit the highway and you will be fine for another week

 

[IdahoDoug]

Hayes,

It's not time critical provided your diff is full of fresh oil and there's enough grease in the birfs that you're not hearing bad clicking. Also, find another Toyota mechanic because there's physically no way wheel bearing grease can get into your differential. Simply no way, and to blame that shows a level of ignorance of the 80's construction that is shocking. Please tell me it's not one of Larry Miller's dealerships!

DougM

 

[Hayes]

Actually Doug,

The previous owner had receipts from Larry H. Miller showing a "front end" service. I don't have it in front of me, but I recall that it included "repacking the bearings" and generally going through "the front end."

I'll just say that I've heard some negative remarks about LH Miller's service department, and the thought of them having messed something up did cross my mind.

Any dealership work I've had done has gone through Mark Miller, and I've be very happy (with everything but the bill).

The comment about the wheel bearings came via a very short phone conversation with one of their service reps. He may have misspoken, misunderstood, or been confused.

To be perfectly honest, I don't really know my wheel bearings from my birfields, but I plan on figuring it out. I'd like to keep my Cruiser running strong and smooth for a long time. Don't have time tonight, but I'll be spending some time poking around the web to try and educate myself.
At this point I'm worried about what damage I've caused, and I don't want to make anything worse.

I'll be checking back in here for more hints and tips, and with any updates.

Thanks again.

Hayes

 

[firetruck41]

Do a search for birfield repack here on the 80 series forum, also look under the "axle" section of the IH8MUD Technical Links
Oh yeah, Welcome to the forum! (obligatory welcome smiley)

 

[RavenTai]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=42722

I have not seen the DVD but it sounds like a great idea, think it would be good for someone like you to "see what you are getting into"

Besides a birf job you need to at lease delete the evil flapper in the breather, if not a full relocation.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=1614

If the seals are in good shape (probably not at this milage) this will help keep the grease and oil separated

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=19978

contact CruiserDan (member here) for parts and manuals, click on the "American Toyota" banner above but I think he is on vacation right now.

 

[TX_TLC]

Actually Doug,

The previous owner had receipts from Larry H. Miller showing a "front end" service. I don't have it in front of me, but I recall that it included "repacking the bearings" and generally going through "the front end."

I'll just say that I've heard some negative remarks about LH Miller's service department, and the thought of them having messed something up did cross my mind.

Any dealership work I've had done has gone through Mark Miller, and I've be very happy (with everything but the bill).

The comment about the wheel bearings came via a very short phone conversation with one of their service reps. He may have misspoken, misunderstood, or been confused.

To be perfectly honest, I don't really know my wheel bearings from my birfields, but I plan on figuring it out. I'd like to keep my Cruiser running strong and smooth for a long time. Don't have time tonight, but I'll be spending some time poking around the web to try and educate myself.
At this point I'm worried about what damage I've caused, and I don't want to make anything worse.

I'll be checking back in here for more hints and tips, and with any updates.

Thanks again.

Hayes

To clear things up also...Toyota's "front axle and bearing service" for the 80 DOESN'T include the inner axle seal. Seems crazy to tear it down that far and not replace a $2.00 seal I know....I had 2 different Toyota Service departments tell me this and I believe C-Dan has said the same thing. Kinda like how the birf kit he sells includes the inner seal where the "Toyota Birf Kit" doesnt...and is more expensive SO if the PO just had them service the bearsing they probably didn't touch that inner seal which probably means it is original.

I considered myself at your current skill level prior to rebuilding my front axle. It is easier than it sounds when reading all the pages upon pages of info. All the stuff comes off...then goes back on.

Sounds like the DVD would be handy as well...get to see how it comes off and what it looks like.

Good luck! Post back if you have any questions! And welcome!

 

[Hayes]

Would you guys expect me to find any damage or excessive wear and tear?

What should I look for?

What about the diff itself?

Hayes

 

[IdahoDoug]

Would not expect ANY damage. Hayes - relax! Buy 4 feet of 1/4 inch rubber fuel line. Locate the front axle snorkel vent and pull it off the nipple on the axle. Stuff one end of the new fuel line onto the nipple and zip tie it to something at the top of the firewall. Done.

You simply have some grease contamination in your front diff that will cause absolutely no damage unless you've been hardcore wheeling under the most severe temperature conditions imaginable for weeks at a time. This is about the only condition I can imagine where the diff would need perfect gear oil and even then it would simply cause the front diff to start whining slightly at 350,000 instead of 450,000. Don't sweat it - the truck's overbuilt.

DougM

 

[Hayes]

OK.
I am officially relaxing.

Thanks.

Hayes