Battery Tray mod for Optima Battery (1 Viewer)

[DTAYLOR]

Putting an Optima battery in was a good idea, but presented a few minor issues.

1. It put undo stress on the battery cable ends, and connector crimp. Over time I've had to re-crimp.

2. The hold down bolts now either need to be trimmed, or shimmed. Either way they are too long, and in the way.

3. When doing any number of under the hood proceedures, one must remove the battery, and this is easier if you have a simple low maintenance connection at the battery terminals.

Solution: a 12 inch section of 2X6 lumber. This raises the battery by 1.25 inches, and now the connectors are level (no preasure), the bolts extend fully and are out of the way.

Mod time: 15 minutes
Cost: $2.50 (if you don't have some laying around)

 

[DTAYLOR]

better pic of bolt position

here we go

 

[KLF]

A 2x6 will be 1.5" thick, won't it?

I've always used a piece of scrap 5/4 decking, about 8" long or so. Perfect 1" lift, hold down works perfectly now. Maybe it's different in an 80-series.

 

[DTAYLOR]

A 2x6 will be 1.5" thick, won't it?

I've always used a piece of scrap 5/4 decking, about 8" long or so. Perfect 1" lift, hold down works perfectly now. Maybe it's different in an 80-series.

I would think both the LX and LC are the same, not real sure though.

My 2x6 was actually 1&3/8" (closer to 1.5 than 1.25). I guess it varies a bit on the lumber.

 

[corsair23]

You need to paint that wood orange to match the hold down bar

 

[Walking Eagle]

didn't it come with the little stand thing to raise it up?

 

[jamisobe]

So how's it runnin? It must be nice to be leak free??

 

[Trunk Monkey]

didn't it come with the little stand thing to raise it up?

Exactly, the ones I see at Costco have a nice riser included. Putting a piece of wood under a battery is a mod? I'll have to post pics of my spare 2 quarts of oil sitting in front of the battery mod.

 

[Morse_FJ40]

Yeah, mine already has the spacer!!! Costco rules!! I'm not bias or anything!!!!

 

[corsair23]

Exactly, the ones I see at Costco have a nice riser included. Putting a piece of wood under a battery is a mod? I'll have to post pics of my spare 2 quarts of oil sitting in front of the battery mod.

I don't think the Optima risers are big enough...Maybe 1/2" IIRC? I could look at the ones I have sitting at home to verify...And IMO they are pathetic and don't stay in place very well. They are 'supposed' to snap into place on either side into the two holes you see in the pic above. But they continually pop off. I've seen some of the newer ones have a top 'tray' deal that goes over the top but I believe can also be used to sit the battery on.

One of the reasons I have been avoiding going with an Optima is the size difference (on top of the bad luck I've had with them). Everyone I have talked with that has gone with an Optima, Odyssey, etc. has raised then one way or the other and none so far have done so with the Optima 'risers'...

What would be smart for Optima, Odyssey, etc. to do is to come up with standard battery size cases for those out there that want a sealed battery without the need to mod to get it to fit. They can continue to sell the case they have now for those that like the smaller size. I however just was a nice reliable sealed battery that will fit right in like an OEM one would ;p

 

[DTAYLOR]

So how's it runnin? It must be nice to be leak free??

Jamisobe,

It feels pretty good. I can't beleive how much power it has, and I have not yet put a timing light on it. I just got back from a 40 mile run in it and it acts like it wants to run a lot faster. All kinds of pedal left at 75-80. I'm going to keep it there or under till I get 500 - 800 miles on it, then up up and away.

 

[DTAYLOR]

Exactly, the ones I see at Costco have a nice riser included. Putting a piece of wood under a battery is a mod? I'll have to post pics of my spare 2 quarts of oil sitting in front of the battery mod.

I really don't remember. If it did, I didn't save it, or the guy at Batteries Plus took it off before he brought it to the counter. Now that you mention it, I think I've seen them on Optima displays around various auto stores.

Obviously, anything that raises the battery the correct height would do. Wood is light weight, and cheap. that's why I used it. Plastic molded to fit would be better, especially if it had some kind of oposing notches to hold firm in the factory battery tray.

 

[jamisobe]

Jamisobe,

It feels pretty good. I can't beleive how much power it has, and I have not yet put a timing light on it. I just got back from a 40 mile run in it and it acts like it wants to run a lot faster. All kinds of pedal left at 75-80. I'm going to keep it there or under till I get 500 - 800 miles on it, then up up and away.

Did you have the cylinders bored and switch to larger pistons? Any mods to the engine?

 

[DTAYLOR]

Did you have the cylinders bored and switch to larger pistons? Any mods to the engine?

We used the old pistons, Toyota rings, bearings, etc. I had the head shaved, ports polished. That's it.

After shop 1 did the head, and messed up my idler pulley bushing, I didn't trust them to do anything else. I had shop 2 redo the head, and check the work of shop 1. They said it looked OK, but they thought I would be happier with it if they re-worked it. This is where it got polished. The guy at shop 2 builds heads for several NASCAR engine shops, so it wasn't hard for him to talk me into this, besides, it only cost an additional $150.

Obviously, I got a good look at it after both shops had finished. The difference was night and day.

I can't wait to see how it does after I get it broken in, then later, a SC...

Forgot to mention, had the injectors flowed at RC Engineering in Torrance CA.

 

[jamisobe]

We used the old pistons, Toyota rings, bearings, etc. I had the head shaved, ports polished. That's it.

After shop 1 did the head, and messed up my idler pulley bushing, I didn't trust them to do anything else. I had shop 2 redo the head, and check the work of shop 1. They said it looked OK, but they thought I would be happier with it if they re-worked it. This is where it got polished. The guy at shop 2 builds heads for several NASCAR engine shops, so it wasn't hard for him to talk me into this, besides, it only cost an additional $150.

Obviously, I got a good look at it after both shops had finished. The difference was night and day.

I can't wait to see how it does after I get it broken in, then later, a SC...

Forgot to mention, had the injectors flowed at RC Engineering in Torrance CA.

Sounds like you gained some intake flow. Did you do anything with the exhaust?

 

[DTAYLOR]

Sounds like you gained some intake flow. Did you do anything with the exhaust?

Exhaust ports were polished as well. I considered putting a header on it, but all I found in research told me there was little if any gain due to the well designed stock manifolds.

Next step for me is the timing advance mod, then Supercharger, then maybe a chip, depending on bang for the buck ratio.

 

[cruzizzle]

Are you serious?

I bought a reverse terminal Optima and it did NOT come with a spacer. However, I had an unused spacer from another Optima I bought for another car (different group) and it fits the 80 battery perfectly. I'm not sure how many [red] battery groups they make, but maybe the spacers are made to fit them all. Don't know why they wouldn't include it with all of them.

Now, as far as the wood goes:

I have an idea. Let's use a big water sponge to hold moisture and accelerate rust on adjacent parts that will do nothing but rot and looks like total ass. Don't forget to get the treated version on your 5/4" and paint it with Thompson's Water Seal. If you wanted to get really fancy, you could look into some of that synthetic decking.

Dude, that wood has to go. Battery spacers are FREE and even if you can't find an Optima spacer, any parts store will give you one of whatever battery brand they carry. You've obviously spent some time detailing under the hood, and now this?

Fair warning for you other carpenters out there that decide the decking solution suits your discerning taste- I'm not sure of the thickness on a standard battery spacer, but I think its less than 1.25". Keep in mind that unless you trim the all-thread on your hold down posts, I think a 1.25" piece of wood is going to put you awful close to a new fresh air inlet in the corner of your hood. Oh well, I guess that could be fixed with some plaster and lathe.

 

[jamisobe]

Exhaust ports were polished as well. I considered putting a header on it, but all I found in research told me there was little if any gain due to the well designed stock manifolds.

Next step for me is the timing advance mod, then Supercharger, then maybe a chip, depending on bang for the buck ratio.

The constricted collector/downtube used to squeeze the exhaust to the outside of the frame is what hampers flow from most aftermarket header attempts as well as the shorter more restrictive stock cast iron manifolds. There is no prefab high flow collector available due to the complexity, but try talking to the guy who ported your head. He may know someone who can fab it for you. It's a tight fit, but a true 2 into 1 free flowing collector allows headers to breath. Otherwise a bottleneck downstream at the tube juncture will nullify any potential flow improvements upstream. There is no prefab high flow collector on the market due to the complexity-I searched high and low and the closest I've seen after the fact is what LX posted up. He showed some very long JDM headers that ended up in the outside gunnel where a collector still needed to be added.

Look at any high performance header system and compare the collector to the stock 95-97 collector/downtube juncture. Its obvious.

 

[DTAYLOR]

I bought a reverse terminal Optima and it did NOT come with a spacer. However, I had an unused spacer from another Optima I bought for another car (different group) and it fits the 80 battery perfectly. I'm not sure how many [red] battery groups they make, but maybe the spacers are made to fit them all. Don't know why they wouldn't include it with all of them.

Now, as far as the wood goes:

I have an idea. Let's use a big water sponge to hold moisture and accelerate rust on adjacent parts that will do nothing but rot and looks like total ass. Don't forget to get the treated version on your 5/4" and paint it with Thompson's Water Seal. If you wanted to get really fancy, you could look into some of that synthetic decking.

Dude, that wood has to go. Battery spacers are FREE and even if you can't find an Optima spacer, any parts store will give you one of whatever battery brand they carry. You've obviously spent some time detailing under the hood, and now this?

Fair warning for you other carpenters out there that decide the decking solution suits your discerning taste- I'm not sure of the thickness on a standard battery spacer, but I think its less than 1.25". Keep in mind that unless you trim the all-thread on your hold down posts, I think a 1.25" piece of wood is going to put you awful close to a new fresh air inlet in the corner of your hood. Oh well, I guess that could be fixed with some plaster and lathe.

Dear snoop dog, (or whatever your in-the-hood handle is)

I hear you about the wood, and I agree it isn't as pretty as the rest of the engine compartment. I'm sure I'll eventually find a more suitable spacer.

You are correct in your assessment that most battery spacers are too thin, hence useless for my intended application (raising the battery).

I have an idea, why not pull your pants up, tuck in your shirt, turn your hat back around so the bill shades your eyes, and find something more suitable, and share that with us.

Now go get your shine box..

D

 

[Hornd]

Dear snoop dog, (or whatever your in-the-hood handle is)

I hear you about the wood, and I agree it isn't as pretty as the rest of the engine compartment. I'm sure I'll eventually find a more suitable spacer.

You are correct in your assessment that most battery spacers are too thin, hence useless for my intended application (raising the battery).

I have an idea, why not pull your pants up, tuck in your shirt, turn your hat back around so the bill shades your eyes, and find something more suitable, and share that with us.

Now go get your shine box..

D

I'd use a piece or 2 of composite (deck Board) before I used Treated Lumber.