I need a new battery and wondering what people would recommend? I am not interested in doing a dual battery setup as I will probably buy a PLB40 in the future. Will be eventually running a couple additional lights, a winch and a fridge . The PLB40 will be used for the fridge. I also don't want to need to top off the battery with Solar or anything.
Battery Recommendation
- Thread starter Ramzizaz
- Start date
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FWIW......factory battery finally died in my '10 Kioti tractor
So I figured might as well take the 3 YO Interstate from the '11 GX and use in tractor
Looked around and most AGM batteries were $180+ to fit the GX
Went online to Summit Racing and ordered an Optima Red Top 9020-164 for $212 shipped
Had it the 3rd day after I ordered it....installed easily...be sure to use spacer underneath
I'm sure we'll have pros/cons on the Red Top....but that's what I did just last week
So I figured might as well take the 3 YO Interstate from the '11 GX and use in tractor
Looked around and most AGM batteries were $180+ to fit the GX
Went online to Summit Racing and ordered an Optima Red Top 9020-164 for $212 shipped
Had it the 3rd day after I ordered it....installed easily...be sure to use spacer underneath
I'm sure we'll have pros/cons on the Red Top....but that's what I did just last week
I did all the research and basically came to the conclusion: pick your favorite auto parts store and get whatever they have, or this:
I got the Odyssey and did the charging diode mod to make sure the AGM gets charged to the slightly higher voltage.
Battery Search
Use our Battery Search tool to find the right ODYSSEY® battery for your car, truck or powersports vehicle. Choose from a wide range of options in our Performance Series, Extreme Series and Pro Series categories.
www.odysseybattery.com
I got the Odyssey and did the charging diode mod to make sure the AGM gets charged to the slightly higher voltage.
I usually buy the Ever Start Maxx batteries from Wal-Mart. I've been running them for over 10 years in all of my vehicles because:
1. Price is comparable to other high-performance lead-acid batteries
2. Liberal return policy. I ruined one from a vehicle that had a short somewhere and slowly drained the battery, they replaced it no questions asked.
3. Few places in the USA are more than an hour from a Wal Mart. If you have a battery die on vacation, you can use the warranty almost anywhere (as long as you keep the receipt).
4. They usually last 5+ years for me - the same as any other lead-acid battery. Cold-cranking performance in sub-freezing temperatures has been good.
1. Price is comparable to other high-performance lead-acid batteries
2. Liberal return policy. I ruined one from a vehicle that had a short somewhere and slowly drained the battery, they replaced it no questions asked.
3. Few places in the USA are more than an hour from a Wal Mart. If you have a battery die on vacation, you can use the warranty almost anywhere (as long as you keep the receipt).
4. They usually last 5+ years for me - the same as any other lead-acid battery. Cold-cranking performance in sub-freezing temperatures has been good.
Any mods required to fit these batteries? spacers etc?
If you do change your battery, please know you can 'upgrade' to the larger Group 27F. They are bigger and a little cheaper than the 24F. I did not have to modify anything. I just bought the bigger battery and plopped it into the same battery tray. But you should measure it on your own, to be sure.
I used this video as reference:
I used this video as reference:
Looks like they do make both the stock 24F size for $100 (Verify your identity - https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-Maxx-Lead-Acid-Automotive-Battery-Group-Size-24F/28275657) as well as the upgraded 27F size for $120 (Verify your identity - https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-Maxx-Lead-Acid-Automotive-Battery-Group-Size-27-12-Volt-810-CCA/28275658).
I got my batteries from Costco where they partner with Interstate.
As of today in my area:
The lead-acid 27F is $94
The lead-acid 24F is $90
The AGM 24F is $160
As of today in my area:
The lead-acid 27F is $94
The lead-acid 24F is $90
The AGM 24F is $160
r2m
Richard
I've been using Odyssey batteries for almost 20 years in all our vehicles.
I use 2 P1200's in the same space as the single factory. They are expensive, but worth it.
I absolutely do not recommend any of the Optima's.
I use 2 P1200's in the same space as the single factory. They are expensive, but worth it.
I absolutely do not recommend any of the Optima's.
- Thread starter
- #11
Is the advantage of the AGM battery that it can be more deeply discharged than the lead-acid and used as a single battery for overlanding? Do those needed additional charge on top of the regular alternator charging?
I am not a battery expert, but I've done a lot of reading. Still, the forum members will correct me where I am wrong.
My understanding is that you will still want to get an auxiliary battery if you plan to have a lot secondary loads. For that, you'd want a deep-cycle battery.
AGM doesn't necessarily mean you get a deep-cycle battery. Although the marketing seems to state you can drive more stuff like navigation, dvd players, etc.
If you want to power stuff while the engine is off, you should look specifically for a deep-cycle battery and use that to drive your secondary loads. The starter battery is meant to provide a lot of current for the starter and keep storage power while driving. They are not meant to get to lower states of charge. In my system, I plan on putting a fridge, camp light, and a few connectors to charge my RC helis, phones, and fun stuff like that. So, I am setting up a secondary battery system with LiFePO4 which is meant to cycle to low states of charge.
Battery stuff is fun, but it requires you get an idea of your use-model. I would start there and then think about what system you want to setup.
On topic, I wanted the biggest cheapest battery for my starter battery. That happened to be a Costo/Interstate battery sized to Group 27F.
- Thread starter
- #13
Thanks for the info. For the accessories that are powered off when in camp, I am planning on getting a Dometic PLB40 since it works up to 2000 cycles and can be charged while driving and has solar input as well. The battery I want now will be primarily for starting but will be good to have until I get the PLB40 which is about $850. It seemed like the cost of a dual battery setup with a DC to DC, Solar Input, New Tray and Additional Battery would be comparable and way less complex to just have a PLB40 installed.
Bingo. Use a battery isolator / charger to keep your aux battery in shape, and let your car keep the start battery where it needs to be.
For the same price as that PLB40, you can get a 100Ah Battleborn Lithium instead. What was your reason for the PLB40? Thanks.
- Thread starter
- #16
It already has a solar input, charges easily off the car and is more portable and compact than the Battleborn. I am not going to be boon-docking for more than a couple days so don't need a massive battery. I was thinking about a Goal Zero 500x but the chemistry in the Dometic seems a lot better for 2000 cycles vs 500 for the Goal Zero. The other option I was thinking about was a Dual Battery but probably would rather go with the PLB40
For close to the same price, I bought a bigbattery.com system supporting 12.8V@170Ah.
Yeah, this does simplify things if you are going to manually disconnect it from the 12v charger. And you obviate the need to do all the fun secondary battery systems.
BTW, you seem like a person who knows exactly what they want and the use-case. You are on the right and logical path. I have to say this is the logical way, but seems no fun at all. I've completely gone off the deep end in my battery setup, so I admire your conviction.
The PLB40 uses a LiFePO4 battery which does support 2000 cycles and Goal Zero is NMC which, indeed, only supports around 500 cycles.
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- Thread starter
- #19
Can you share a bit more details here? Does it use Lithium and where it is located? I am planning on running a 12v plug to the rear (thank you Lexus for not having one) which is tied to the ignition so that it will not drain the car battery when the car is off and the PLB40 can charge while cruising.
Now I need to figure out if I should spring for an Odyssey 34R-PC1500T or just get a Group 27F Costco or Walmart Battery
This the one I got: 12V 170Ah LiFePO4 Power Block – BigBattery.com - https://bigbattery.com/products/12v-lifepo4-power-block/
Will Prowse on YouTube did a few reviews on them and he seems to like the capacity, BMS, and cells. He did not like the low-temp cutoff, though. This battery will not have solar, inverter, DIN nor 12v cig connections. You have to build a distribution box to support those. So you may be better off with the PLB40 for your use-case. But for the capacity, it's tough to beat. It is 4x the capacity of the PLB40!
I calculated I can run my 60L fridge continuously for 4 days if that is the only load. I have an extremely hungry wife, so I need fridge capacity.
Ramzizaz, I implore you to stick to your plan. Your conviction is unique. Please do not go down the path of overboarding like me. It is a sickness.
Man, you came for a starter battery now you are looking at a 2000Wh battery! I love it!!
