Battery isolator question (1 Viewer)

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mudking82

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Well I have searched and read and read and read for hours, days now about this subject. Time to just ask the questions tailored to my needs.

I want to run two batteries, one for starting and to power the stock electrical loads, the second auxiliary battery to be used to power a fridge, inverter, winching duty, etc. I want a simple and fairly cheap solution.
I am NOT concerned about being able to push a button in the cab and "self jump start", though if it comes with it fine, no problem.
I DO want both batteries to get charged whenever I am driving.
I do NOT want to risk having my accessories pull down my starting battery.

So here are the questions:
1. Do I just need an isolator that has a spot for the alternator to hook to on it?
2. If so, which one is recommended? (I have read about diode, relay/solenoid, and solid state)
3. Does charging the auxiliary battery through the isolator enable it to get a good quality charge?
4. If I am wrong or you have a good suggestion please help. Please enlighten me.
I want to know the details, not just a "I had good success with X brand dual setup", I have already read all those threads. Thanks in advance.
 
Last edited:
We have a complete dual battery kit for the 80 series here at Iron Pig Off Road, and it addresses everything you outlined that you need in a cost effective package; here are the answers to your:

1. Do I just need an isolator? No, you need a separator along with the applicable wiring, terminals, and battery tray with hold down hardware. Our kit does happen to come with the self jump start switch inside as well.
2. If so, which one is recommended? (I have read about diode, relay/solenoid, and solid state) We use a relay/solenoid system 100A continuous, 400A peak. We use the Sure Power separator system and it works great, and is a simple setup without the expensive bells, whistles and digital displays. The most bang for the buck.
3. Does charging the auxiliary battery through the isolator enable it to get a good quality charge? Yes with our system.

We allso suggest putting the winch on the main/starting battery because if the winch is being used and draws down the charging voltage, it will separate and only allow the winch to pull from the auxillary battery, trying to protect the charging system. If its hooked to the main battery you get the advantage of the charging voltage and it will not hurt the charging system. Its how we set up all of our installs and it works perfectly. If you would like more info please flle free to give us a call toll free at the shop, the number is 866-IRONPIG and we'll be happy to help you with your project!
 
Terry I went to the website but couldn't find any prices on the battery kit.
 
So what is the difference between a typical isolator and a separator?
Separator: http://www.surepower.com/pdf/separatorinterconnect.pdf
Isolator: http://www.surepower.com/pdf/isolator1.pdf

What I get out of it is that an isolator will charge both batteries equally because the alternator charge wire hooks directly to the isolator. Whereas a separator will give priority to charging the main battery first before switching and charging the auxiliary battery.

Also for an isolator you must run your alternator charge wire direct to the isolator instead of the main battery. With a separator you leave the alternator wire going to the main battery, and when it switches to charge the auxiliary battery it is actually allowing amps to flow from the main battery to the auxiliary battery by connecting them in parallel.

Is this all correct?
 
Last edited:
Appreciate the summary, for some reason no one spells it out :hillbilly:


mudking82 said:
So what is the difference between a typical isolator and a separator?
Separator: http://www.surepower.com/pdf/separatorinterconnect.pdf
Isolator: http://www.surepower.com/pdf/isolator1.pdf

What I get out of it is that an isolator will charge both batteries equally because the alternator charge wire hooks directly to the isolator. Whereas a separator will give priority to charging the main battery first before switching and charging the auxiliary battery.

Also for an isolator you must run your alternator charge wire direct to the isolator instead of the main battery. With a separator you leave the alternator wire going to the main battery, and when it switches to charge the auxiliary battery it is actually allowing amps to flow from the main battery to the auxiliary battery by connecting them in parallel.

Is this all correct?
Click to expand...
 
Rockrawler said:
We have a complete dual battery kit for the 80 series here at Iron Pig Off Road, and it addresses everything you outlined that you need in a cost effective package; here are the answers to your:

1. Do I just need an isolator? No, you need a separator along with the applicable wiring, terminals, and battery tray with hold down hardware. Our kit does happen to come with the self jump start switch inside as well.
2. If so, which one is recommended? (I have read about diode, relay/solenoid, and solid state) We use a relay/solenoid system 100A continuous, 400A peak. We use the Sure Power separator system and it works great, and is a simple setup without the expensive bells, whistles and digital displays. The most bang for the buck.
3. Does charging the auxiliary battery through the isolator enable it to get a good quality charge? Yes with our system.

We allso suggest putting the winch on the main/starting battery because if the winch is being used and draws down the charging voltage, it will separate and only allow the winch to pull from the auxillary battery, trying to protect the charging system. If its hooked to the main battery you get the advantage of the charging voltage and it will not hurt the charging system. Its how we set up all of our installs and it works perfectly. If you would like more info please flle free to give us a call toll free at the shop, the number is 866-IRONPIG and we'll be happy to help you with your project!
Click to expand...

Terry,
I too am interested. I didnt know you had a kit available.. More info or a link?
 
separators are also called combiners. Check out the "west marine combiner 150". They work great in my boats and rig.
 
Just bought one of these on ebay USA, $120.00 inc shipping to Spain, 300Amp Voltage Sensitive Relay (VSR)

I will be fitting this to my system, the parallel function is good for over 1200 amps, so my winch will be on the aux as will everything else. I used a 'typical' vsr on my Discovery which worked fine however you could not pull the amperage through it if using the winch on the aux as someone mentioned earlier, with the BEP VSR you can have your cake and eat it, marine specification quality as well, no affiliation ect, be careful of mixing battery types as well as this can bring about some issues as well.

regards

Dave
 
Well I ended up getting the Sure Power 100 amp Model 1314 from these guys: https://www.allbatterysalesandservice.com In case anybody needs the type of stuff they sell I highly recommend them. Fast service, free shipping over $60 if it is under 10 lbs. Made two orders already, excellent service. I got it all installed and it works great.
 
shoot some pics when you are done!!

Looks interesting.

Mike
 
Well I still don't have pics yet, but I just added a nice little Datel panel gauge to the setup. Installed it to the right of the rear heater switch in place of the blank. Turns out this little meter fit snugly in there as if it was made for the Cruiser dash! Then installed a three position switch, switched left tells me main battery voltage, switched right tells me aux battery voltage, middle position meter is off. Meter is self powered and not illuminated. I will get some pics soon for you though.....
 
So how are you going to hook it up? Are you going to use a switch at all or just hook the batteries and alternator to the isolator and let it rip?

Curious because I just got a Noco 90 amp isolator from a MUD member. And I already have a Blue Sea's switch and circuit fuse block.
 
I bought the Sure Power 100 amp Model 1314, which is a separator. Once the primary battery starts charging the separator combines the batteries allowing both to charge. When either one drops to about 12.6 it disconnects so neither draws the other down. So no, I did not go the way of any heavy duty switches. I am very happy with this set up.
 
For those that have done a simple solenoid approach for the dual battery set up, do you have LED's in your dash or the stock bulbs? I am having problems with my dash lights (BRAKES, Oil, ATF, etc.) coming on when I tap into the "CHARGE" circuit or a.k.a. Alternator Good signal and it can not engage my soenoid. I can disconnect from the "Alternator Good" connection and go straight to another +12V source and the solenoid engages but does not work when connected.

Has anyone done this sucessfully with the solenoid approach and LED's in the dash?
 
What I am trying to figure out is, why I can not tap into the "Alternator Good" and trigger my solenoid. When it starts the solenoid does not engage. :meh:
 
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