Battery/Alternator issues (1 Viewer)

[jgordon]

Just pulled the truck out of an extended hibernation. Battery was unhooked. Expected it to be dead, and when I reconnected it and cranked, I actually got a bit of a kick to the starter. Not enough to turn over, but something.

Then tried to jump the truck. Here's the stupid part (yes, all of my issues begin or involve some form of idiocy on my part). When I was jumping it, the positive lead of the cables came loose and rested on a headlight ring. Didn't notice this until I saw a wisp of smoke coming off the ring as the cable was trying to weld itself onto the ring.

I couldn't get the battery to hold a charge, so I replaced the battery. All was good, except now I get an odd issue. When the truck is parked for more than a few minutes, it's tough to start. Will get my charge/brake/oil lights to light up, but when I turn the key, I just get a click. try it a few times, nothing but click. Then it'll just barely crank over, and I'm fine again.

Took it to a mechanic, as electrical stuff is over my head. He put a meter on the battery, and told me that my alternator was on its last legs, as there was a very low charge (11 volts, that climbed to 13.5/14 over a minute or two) on the battery with the engine running.

Would an alternator be the cause of all of this? Or is there something that I did when I tried welding my jumper cables to the truck? All the fuses are fine, and she seems to be fine other than this.

If it's the alternator, are there any recommended sources? Or just the standard napa reman stuff?

Thanks.

 

[stocksail]

could be just the regulator or a poor ground and not the whole alt.

if you do need an alternator, i think the general consensus is that if you have an OEM one to try to have it rebuilt. a lot of people have had just fair luck with reman alts.

 

[cruiserhunter]

Just a thought, but make absolutely sure you have a great connection at the terminals. When I had electrical problems, I ran checked every part and component... Put new battery terminals on and charging/starting problems stopped.

Might not be your problem..but cleaning the battery posts and terminals costs nothing and new terminals a 10bucks.

Wish I knew more... Good luck!!!!

Patrick

 

[jgordon]

So the plot thickens a bit. The problem appears to be something other than the battery. It seems like the battery has a full charge. So when the truck is running, the alternator appears to be charging it. If it were a ground cable, wouldn't the electrical connection be spotty?

When I try to start it, I get a solid "thunk" and all of the lights are on. Headlights shine brightly, etc. etc. - it just doesn't start. It was intermittent for a while. I'd get the thunk a few times as the starter tried to engage, but it wouldn't turn over. Then, eventually, it would just fire up. No tweaking or changes to anything on my part. But now it appears to be more severe, and the truck just won't turn over, either on its own or with a jump.

I have no idea what this could be. Starter?

 

[superjuice]

I used to carry a hammer in my 60 just for tapping on the starter, I'd give that a shot, hit it on the back

 

[lovetoski]

First, just want to emphasize the point about to make sure your battery cables are clean. I wasted a bunch of money once because I didn't do that. Also, pull the starter end and clean it as well. Also, make sure the ground cable from the battery to body is clean.

Doing all of the above is free, and is needed PM anyways. If that doesn't solve the problem, then it's likely that your starter is getting old. It's a common wear item for higher milage toytota trucks. The funky symptoms you are getting are consistent with a failing starter. Try to get a reman OEM, it'll provide longer service than the super cheap ones from autozone/etc.

HTH

 

[jgordon]

Starter seems likely, although I will do the suggested cable checking and cleaning. Dumb question, but wheres the damn starter? And what's a good source for oem? Cruiser dan?

 

[lovetoski]

Starter seems likely, although I will do the suggested cable checking and cleaning. Dumb question, but wheres the damn starter? And what's a good source for oem? Cruiser dan?

Starter is on the bottom of the engine, passenger side, mounted at the junction of the engine and bell housing.

Cdan is a good source for a starter.

 

[ntsqd]

It may only need new contacts in the starter's relay. Search that topic and there has been plenty written about their replacement.

 

[lovetoski]

It may only need new contacts in the starter's relay. Search that topic and there has been plenty written about their replacement.

Here's the thread...from the FAQ

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/105626-here-toyota-part-s-starter-rebuild.html

 

[rrv333]

Rebuilding the starter is a 1/2job. You'll spend more time removing and replacing the starter than you will rebuilding it.

 

[Landpimp]

You fried(welded basicly) the starter solenoid contact when you grounded out the battery, more than likely it was on its last legs

 

[jgordon]

It was definitely the starter. A friend showed me where to whack it (that doesn't sound good) and it fired right up. New starter inbound from cruiser dan. I'll take a look at rebuilding this one for next time.

Many thanks.

 

[mrt6644]

I've had my 89 FJ62 exactly one year. I got it when it had 137k miles.
I had always suspected a charging issue as the PO had it checked for battery issues, and changed the battery.
I installed a couple of voltmeters to monitor the voltage over he last year.
When running, the voltage would rear 13-14 depending on temperature and what I had running. It seems a little low compared to modern cars, but figured that was normal.
Tonight I went out to dinner with my daughter. I recall seeing the voltage at a normal range on the way.
But when leaving to drive home, I noticed the brake and batt lights stayed on as I drove off.
The voltmeter showed 11.7-11.9 all the way home, so obviously no charge.
Anyway, I'll look into it in the morning.
I guess first thing is to check belt.
What breaks on these? Is it usually the regulator?
Otherwise how does an alternator go from fine to dead in one moment?

 

[Spiva]

I've had my 89 FJ62 exactly one year. I got it when it had 137k miles.
I had always suspected a charging issue as the PO had it checked for battery issues, and changed the battery.
I installed a couple of voltmeters to monitor the voltage over he last year.
When running, the voltage would rear 13-14 depending on temperature and what I had running. It seems a little low compared to modern cars, but figured that was normal.
Tonight I went out to dinner with my daughter. I recall seeing the voltage at a normal range on the way.
But when leaving to drive home, I noticed the brake and batt lights stayed on as I drove off.
The voltmeter showed 11.7-11.9 all the way home, so obviously no charge.
Anyway, I'll look into it in the morning.
I guess first thing is to check belt.
What breaks on these? Is it usually the regulator?
Otherwise how does an alternator go from fine to dead in one moment?

Did you ever find a fix for this? Mine just started with the battery/brake lights this morning. I took it to the shop, and the alternator tested good. Any other potential culprits?

 

[mrt6644]

Did you ever find a fix for this? Mine just started with the battery/brake lights this morning. I took it to the shop, and the alternator tested good. Any other potential culprits?

My issue was due to a bad alternator. I bought a used alternator from a member here and it's been fine since.

 

[Spiva]

My issue was due to a bad alternator. I bought a used alternator from a member here and it's been fine since.

Great news. And thanks for the quick reply!

 

[mrt6644]

Well I have the same issue tonight. Replacing the alternator last time seemed to work. But I have the same problem now and am wondering if maybe it was another issue?
I did replace it with a used alternator last time so it's possible it failed again.
Someone mentioned that the brake light should not come on due to a bad alternator, that it's possibly a ground issue.

 

[Spiva]

Mine was the alternator, and the brake light and battery lights came on whenever there was a power drain. Turn signal, Windows, wipers, etc. As soon as it was replaced, the problems went away. I was short on time, so I had my mech handle it. He used an aftermarket Bosch, and it's been fine ever since.

 

[mrt6644]

Ok, so then the brake light can come on due to a failed alternator.
I doubt any shop has one in stock near me.