Can you give some more detail about water tank? Curious what brand and size? Suggestions?
Barefoot Expedition Trailer Build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter barefoot
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- Thread starter
- #102
It is a 25 gallon tank from tractor supply.
Great looking build! You are doing an awesome job on that little trailer! I too have been following this tread since you started as well as the great job rezarf did with his build!
I have my trailer project in the garage waiting for some extra cash for parts so I can keep going!
I was wondering if you would be able to post a sort of list on the electronics you are using on the trailer like charger, switch panel, brake away, converter, etc.
Thank you and keep up the good work!
Paulo
I have my trailer project in the garage waiting for some extra cash for parts so I can keep going!
I was wondering if you would be able to post a sort of list on the electronics you are using on the trailer like charger, switch panel, brake away, converter, etc.
Thank you and keep up the good work!
Paulo
- Thread starter
- #104
Thank you. I will try to work up a list sometime this week.
I have been using the trailer and it is working well, but my assumption that it would need shocks has been proven true. Today I installed some using generic upper mounts and the rear lower mounts from a jeep TJ.
I have been using the trailer and it is working well, but my assumption that it would need shocks has been proven true. Today I installed some using generic upper mounts and the rear lower mounts from a jeep TJ.
- Thread starter
- #105
I installed the tj brackets mirrored side to side compared to how they are on the jeep. These are angled so that the lower is slightly inboard of the upper.
Any updates? Awesome trailer!
Yes, i ran a 40 lb propane tank for 15 years or so. (I know this was asked a Long time ago)
The valve screws into the tank with a standard right hand thread. They work very well... And are cheap.
very sweet build for sure, i like the rear angled part best
Great write up and your fab skills are amazing. I have a question about the floor. Did you drill holes on the edges to weld to the frame or did you weld the sides to the frame?
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- #111
There are five body mounts welded inboard of and flush with the top of the frames. The tub itself just has holes drilled through the floor to line up with the lower mounts. There is a .5" piece of delrin between the tub and the frame.JamesR said:
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- #112
larcie said:
I know, but I decided to copy the layout from the donor pickup (2wd early 90s Toyota). So far they seem to work well. I can switch to the rear springs from the 4wd version, or a 4runner in the future if I want lift or greater capacity.
Good idea. Thanks for the response.
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- #114
Update...
I've been using the trailer and my temporary ball style hitch had to go. After looking at various designs of multi axis hitches online I decided to build my own.
I had originally planned to use one of the max at hitches from kilby so my tongue was designed to telescope using a section of receiver tube I could pin the hitch in. When I decided to build a hitch I decided to make the attachment to the end of the tube permanent.
I've been using the trailer and my temporary ball style hitch had to go. After looking at various designs of multi axis hitches online I decided to build my own.
I had originally planned to use one of the max at hitches from kilby so my tongue was designed to telescope using a section of receiver tube I could pin the hitch in. When I decided to build a hitch I decided to make the attachment to the end of the tube permanent.
- Thread starter
- #115
Roll Axis
I welded a piece of 2x2 solid stock with a 1" hole through it into the end of the tube and used a 1"x8" grade 8 bolt through the stock for the roll axis. In order to get the thread length I wanted I ended up with a much longer shoulder than I planned so I used a tractor hitch part from tractor supply as a spacer it's ID matched the bolt and it OD just fit in the tube.
I welded a piece of 2x2 solid stock with a 1" hole through it into the end of the tube and used a 1"x8" grade 8 bolt through the stock for the roll axis. In order to get the thread length I wanted I ended up with a much longer shoulder than I planned so I used a tractor hitch part from tractor supply as a spacer it's ID matched the bolt and it OD just fit in the tube.
- Thread starter
- #116
Pitch Axis
I used more of the 2x2 solid stock for the pitch axis. This piece was drilled and tapped to accept the 1" diameter grade 8 bolt. After assembling the bolt into the solid stock, a 5/8" hole was cross drilled through both the stock and the bolt (not fun) This block is then pinned into a bracket made from a short length of 2.5"x2.5" tubing After initial assembly I welded a machine bushing to each side of the block to make the fit between block and bracket closer.
I used more of the 2x2 solid stock for the pitch axis. This piece was drilled and tapped to accept the 1" diameter grade 8 bolt. After assembling the bolt into the solid stock, a 5/8" hole was cross drilled through both the stock and the bolt (not fun) This block is then pinned into a bracket made from a short length of 2.5"x2.5" tubing After initial assembly I welded a machine bushing to each side of the block to make the fit between block and bracket closer.
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- Thread starter
- #117
Yaw Axis
The bracket that allows for pitch also allows for yaw as it is bolted to a ball mount/ draw bar with a layer of polyurethane sandwiched in between. There is a small piece of tubing that runs vertically through the drawbar, poly spacer, and bracket that allows me to tighten the bolt without crushing the poly isolator.
The bracket that allows for pitch also allows for yaw as it is bolted to a ball mount/ draw bar with a layer of polyurethane sandwiched in between. There is a small piece of tubing that runs vertically through the drawbar, poly spacer, and bracket that allows me to tighten the bolt without crushing the poly isolator.
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- Thread starter
- #118
Pics of the completed assembly.
Allows for...
- infinite roll (of course the RTT might have issues with that)
- greater than 180 degrees of yaw (limited by trailer / tow vehicle contact)
- approximately 140 degrees of pitch
Allows for...
- infinite roll (of course the RTT might have issues with that)
- greater than 180 degrees of yaw (limited by trailer / tow vehicle contact)
- approximately 140 degrees of pitch
Interesting design. I'm no expert, but somewhat different than others I've seen. Any particular inspirations, as I know there are several different camps when it comes to flexible coupling design? Or, as it seems, maybe you're rather like I am with wood, its seems, where you know what you wanna make and figure it out pretty well as you go along?
So far, I'm sticking to the tried-and-true, but loud pintle-and-lunette, but I'm always curious to learn more about these.
So far, I'm sticking to the tried-and-true, but loud pintle-and-lunette, but I'm always curious to learn more about these.
- Thread starter
- #120
As a matter, fact I planned to buy the max coupler, but I decided to build one out of materials I either had on hand or could grab off the shelf from a hardware store just to see if I could. To my mind there are a few main ways my hitch is different. First my hitch is welded into the main draw bar, where a the max coupler would have been pinned. Of course my draw bar telescopes/ can be removed from the trailer fairly easily. Second it can be disassembled/ adjusted/ repaired. I don't necessarily view this as an advantage over the max coupler, just a necessity due to the trial and error nature of its fabrication. I used machine bushings and a shaft collar for spacers. By adding or removing spacers I can change the preload on the main shaft. I am using a split lock washer collapsed approximately half way between two of the bushings to maintain moderate pressure (not as a lock). I found that if I just used bushings/ spacers the force needed to rotate/roll the hitch varied greatly depending on where the main shaft was in its rotation. Third it does not use a poly bushing for the pitch axis. No deep rationale here, just using what is available that would allow me to assemble/ disassemble. Full disclosure... This is my second attempt. The first was welded/ non adjustable and, while it was tight when I tacked it together, once it was fully welded it had loosened up considerably. I cut that off and started over.
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