Balancer bolt removal with motor out of engine

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Oct 25, 2014
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I have looked and just found references to the bolt through the flywheel through an inspection cover. I assumed that was the way I would take the balancer bolt off with the motor out of the engine but...there isn't an inspection cover. The bellhousing goes all the way around the flywheel.

I still have the trans on for now so should I take it off and then jam something in the flywheel and go that route?
 
I thought that there is an inspection cover made of plastic on the bottom. Or try an impact.
 
Alright. You will have to forgive me on this one. It was so munged up that there didn't look like any difference between the bellhousing and the inspection cover. You can't see the black cover when there is 1/8 of black sludge covering it....:)
 
Yeah. I went the 3/4 drive breaker bar route and it still isn't off. This is certainly making me rethink my priorities in hobbies.

Anyone else do needlepoint????
 
Howard, Is there any other job on the truck that needs a 3/4 impact gun? I am going to either rent or buy one tomorrow. If this is the only job then I don't need to keep one around.
 
Alright. I sliced and diced it and decided to try to get a commercial truck tire service to come knock the bolt off for me. Their trucks are mobile and carry a lot of air to take the truck tires off. I figure they are using 3/4 and maybe 1 in impacts to do the roadside service.

I just can't justify the $400 expense for a descent 3/4 impact and hoses for 1 bolt.
 
I bought a used electric impact wrench from a pawn shop years ago.

It was cheap and has served me well.
 
Wow. That was a disappointment. No commercial tire store would do that so I guess I'm back to the drawing board. I tried to rent a big impact and couldn't find one of those either.
 
Try the pawn shops as suggested by @45Kevin . You should be able to score one for less than $100. If you plan on doing your own wrenching, I can promise you you're going to need it more than just this one time.
 
1. Hook up a battery and use the starter motor to get it off by using a breaker bar and the engine on the ground.
2. Remove the tranny and flex plate, bolt a 6 ft piece of 1/4 angle stock to the crank shaft and use a breaker bar.
3. Make a tool that fits the holes in the pulley like Nuke said.

Quit screwing around and get it done.
 
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I guarantee this will work.
Take your 3/4" HF Wrench to a place that sells metal tubing.
Get a thick wall piece that the handle just slips into (Schedule 80 if Gas Pipe).
Get a 6' Length and head home.

Remove inspection cover and put a 14mm bolt in Grade 8 or higher in the Transmission.
You can duck tape the pipe over your wrench to hold it if you want to get fancy.
Put all your weight on the 6' Bar till she comes loose.
Torque equals force X Lever Arm.
6'x 200lbs = 1,200 ft/Lbs of torque

Use your 2" PVC coupler to tap in new seal evenly.
Return bolt
Use same method to tighten, but don't go crazy.
If you snap that bolt off list Truck in Mud Classifieds and move on to something else....mechanics isn't for you.
 
Why not do this seal when the engine is back in the truck and you can use starter bump method, or you going beyond seal replacement?
With right tools its a very quick job. Doing Oil Pump cover gasket as well? I would.
 

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