Bad Battery Bad Starter? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Feb 9, 2021
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Location
Clovis, CA
After a day or two of sluggish starts, I was unable to start my LC and had to jump start it. Immediately replaced the battery after getting it jumped (9/15). Fast forward to today (9/26), also experiencing sluggish starts. Took it to the auto parts store to have them test the battery they sold me and they reported the battery was low on charge, the alternator seemed good, but the starter could be going bad. This LC is a 2021, with less than 45,000 miles on it, no engine modifications (other than the 10 day old battery). Does it seem reasonable to have a starter fail at this mileage or is there something else to look at?
 
I would go to another (competitor) auto parts store to see what their battery tester says. Not to say your starter COULDN'T be bad, but it is highly improbable unless you're doing a LOT of short trips and starting your truck time and again to get to that 45k miles.

You sure your battery terminal connections are good? I'd start there and escalate (other auto parts store, etc) to see where the issue is.
 
I would go to another (competitor) auto parts store to see what their battery tester says. Not to say your starter COULDN'T be bad, but it is highly improbable unless you're doing a LOT of short trips and starting your truck time and again to get to that 45k miles.

You sure your battery terminal connections are good? I'd start there and escalate (other auto parts store, etc) to see where the issue is.
Good tip. I'll get a second opinion on the battery before signing up for a new starter.
 
I'm not saying it's impossible, but I'd bet heavily against a 45k mile toyota landcruiser starter being bad. IMO far less likely than a new parts store battery being bad.

What parts store? Is the new battery the same group number (27F) or just one "that fits"? Also if they try to sell you the premium "AGM" battery don't go for it. Your vehicle isn't set up to charge that correctly. I'd just go with the nicest standard type flooded lead acid battery I can find.
 
I'm not saying it's impossible, but I'd bet heavily against a 45k mile toyota landcruiser starter being bad. IMO far less likely than a new parts store battery being bad.

What parts store? Is the new battery the same group number (27F) or just one "that fits"? Also if they try to sell you the premium "AGM" battery don't go for it. Your vehicle isn't set up to charge that correctly. I'd just go with the nicest standard type flooded lead acid battery I can find.
I believe I was sold a 27RPR battery. See picture.
IMG_4001.jpeg
 
Starters typically don’t fail in a “sluggish” fashion. It’a more so, if a starter is bad, you’ll simply get a click and no engine turnover.

Sluggish starts indicate a bad battery or bad connection thus not providing the starter enough juice.

My guess is that battery is bust (which is happening more common with the Chinese junk batteries which are being produced).

Before you replace the battery though, I would reseat the terminal connections to see if they’re just not making a good connection.
 
Another thought - you can pull out the battery and manually charge it with a battery charger overnight to see if the battery is charging and throw it back in the rig to see if it helps your starting situation.

If that’s the case, my guess would be a bad alternator since it leads to the battery not getting adequate amperage to charge while the vehicle is running. (Though if you didn’t have a good connection in the first place, it could also just be a bad connection since the alternator isn’t able to send enough power to the battery).

If you have a voltmeter, you can see how much juice is running through the battery while the vehicle is running. That will also tell you if the alternator is working properly. If I’m not mistaken, you should be in the 14-15 volt range while the vehicle is running. The base battery at full charge (when the vehicle is off) should be reading mid to high 12’s for the volts.
 
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After running around this afternoon, I think the problem may have been solved (fingers crossed). Stopped by the dealership and they couldn't test my battery at the time so we set up an appointment for tomorrow. The service guy said he believed it was a battery issue because starters usually work or they don't. Next stop AutoZone for a second opinion on the state of the battery. They tested it and said the battery was fine, alternator was fine and the starter was faulty. The kid at AutoZone said it was due to having a push button starter - they just go out faster than a keyed ignition (hmm?). After running my kids around I went to the original place of purchase - O'Rileys. They also tested the battery and instantly said, the battery is bad, it has a charge but wasn't strong enough to work properly. The kid at O'Riley said he'd never seen this before and had no problems warrantying it. Swapped in a new battery, the LC started right up like normal. It ran like normal with no stuttered starts later on. Hopefully the new battery swap will do the trick.

I appreciate everyone that chimed in to help! Really appreciate it! These types of problems drive me obsessively crazy. There's a reason I buy Toyota cars - for better reliability and ease of maintenance.
 
After running around this afternoon, I think the problem may have been solved (fingers crossed). Stopped by the dealership and they couldn't test my battery at the time so we set up an appointment for tomorrow. The service guy said he believed it was a battery issue because starters usually work or they don't. Next stop AutoZone for a second opinion on the state of the battery. They tested it and said the battery was fine, alternator was fine and the starter was faulty. The kid at AutoZone said it was due to having a push button starter - they just go out faster than a keyed ignition (hmm?). After running my kids around I went to the original place of purchase - O'Rileys. They also tested the battery and instantly said, the battery is bad, it has a charge but wasn't strong enough to work properly. The kid at O'Riley said he'd never seen this before and had no problems warrantying it. Swapped in a new battery, the LC started right up like normal. It ran like normal with no stuttered starts later on. Hopefully the new battery swap will do the trick.

I appreciate everyone that chimed in to help! Really appreciate it! These types of problems drive me obsessively crazy. There's a reason I buy Toyota cars - for better reliability and ease of maintenance.
Unfortunately, it’s becoming more and more common for batteries to suffer this problem. (Low quality foreign junk)

Usually I stick with Costco Interstate batteries or Toyota true starts, but the best is the Panasonic battery which comes from Japan that’s originally installed in the cruiser. Too bad we can’t get those here in the States off the shelves :(
 
This was a good video and a learning experience for me. Turns out many of the batteries by different brands are actually only made by a few manufacturers like Johnson Controls.

 
Check the terminal tins at the bends too (on ground), like shown in the pic above

Had this issue on both my 2012 and 2014 Tundras with the 5.7, lonnnng, painful story short, that tin 90 deg terminal was cracked, BARELY hanging together at the bend on BOTH my 2012 and 2014. Replaced them to real cabling, and zero issues from then on,

Very poor design
 
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I bought one of those, different model but same brand. Much more expensive model too. It told me every battery I tested needed to be replaced. Sent it back.
It’s an inexpensive device and I was skeptical but it’s worked well for me. I actually have one plus a NOCO jump pac in every vehicle.
 
Unfortunately, it’s becoming more and more common for batteries to suffer this problem. (Low quality foreign junk)

Usually I stick with Costco Interstate batteries or Toyota true starts, but the best is the Panasonic battery which comes from Japan that’s originally installed in the cruiser. Too bad we can’t get those here in the States off the shelves :(
I agree. I usually like to make an informed, thought-out purchases. Instead I reacted to the problem and made a panic purchase. My next purchase will be a jump pac to throw in the back and hopefully never need.
 
I agree. I usually like to make an informed, thought-out purchases. Instead I reacted to the problem and made a panic purchase. My next purchase will be a jump pac to throw in the back and hopefully never need.
Noco typically gets down to about 40% off for Black Friday. I’m very happy with mine.
 
Another noco fan here. I have one at the house that can “recondition” SLA batteries. To a point anyways.

But if you’re looking for long term battery health, get a trickle charger. They’re great!
 
Starters typically don’t fail in a “sluggish” fashion. It’a more so, if a starter is bad, you’ll simply get a click and no engine turnover.

Sluggish starts indicate a bad battery or bad connection thus not providing the starter enough juice.

My guess is that battery is bust (which is happening more common with the Chinese junk batteries which are being produced).

Before you replace the battery though, I would reseat the terminal connections to see if they’re just not making a good connection.
Don't neglect inspecting ground connections to motor or frame, seems many overlook this part of the equation,
 
Don't neglect inspecting ground connections to motor or frame, seems many overlook this part of the equation,

Yes! Exactly! I had 2 cracked ones on different 2 trucks.
 

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