Axle Swap questions

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Ordered some more parts for the cruiser, including the rear calipers and brackets so I have everything I need to get the rear end on wheels again. :)

Do I need a special tool to remove the rear hubs? If so, where do I get this tool and does anyone have a picture of it. Thanks!
 
Well, I've had to reorder the right rear caliper twice for missing hardware parts and dust covers/shipping damage. Tuesday is the soonest I get another one.
 
Thanks. I will be ordering replacement calipers since they are ruined by prior improper installation.

If the viscous coupler locks up, your basically driving in high range 4WD all of the time that puts extra stress and increased wear on all of the drivetrain parts.

Thanks for the tips on bleeding and wiring. I usually bleed the furthest wheel too.

If you VC is frozen, it is a locked center diff you will destyroy the birfields and about everything, make sure it is good
 
If you VC is frozen, it is a locked center diff you will destyroy the birfields and about everything, make sure it is good

No you won't.

We have these things called differentials, they allow two tires to move at a different speed.
 
No you won't.

We have these things called differentials, they allow two tires to move at a different speed.

Guess you have never driven a full locked VC, it is the same as you CLD trust me, I took a bad one out of my LC and I could not drive on pavement, without barking the front tires, which would eventually destroy the front diff . But what do I know
 
Guess you have never driven a full locked VC, it is the same as you CLD trust me, I took a bad one out of my LC and I could not drive on pavement, without barking the front tires, which would eventually destroy the front diff . But what do I know

I bet that's why so many Land Cruisers destroy birfields at Cruise Moab every year.

All those poor 40s and 60s with no center diff to unlock and all those poor 80s that don't have the 7-pin mod or whatever Jon Held calls it.
 
So, it turns out the rear axle has hardly any wear. The drain plug has a huge magnet on it. When I pulled the rear hubs the outer bearing didn't have any visible wear.

To disassemble after cone washers are removed, use a 12mm socket on a 8mm bolt to break free the axle shaft. Once shaft is out you will see 2 Phillips head bolts. These lock the bearing preload retainer in place. I used an impact driver to remove. Then, a flat head screwdriver to remove the ring and then the hub will pull off.
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Next, I disconnected the ABS sensor plug & brake line. I removed each ABS bracket from the frame, parking brake cable assembly, and control arm bolts. Using a floor jack, jack stands, and a bottle jack I was able to move the axle around to get everything off and slide it out.
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I put the e-locker axle in place and using the floor jack I was able to get the rear track arm installed followed by the lower 2. Then, I began to install the new suspension. The springs are King Heavy Load and the shocks are Bilstein 5100. They are an inch longer and firmer.
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Parts cleaning, parking brake installation, and new seals for the wheel bearing repack. The FSM is very helpful here. Ordered a bearing adjustment tool.

This is the part I really like about these vehicles, how the bearings look like new. All that's needed is a freshen up of grease, oil, & seals. I was surprised to find USA made Timken bearings. Is that OEM?
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Parts cleaning, parking brake installation, and new seals for the wheel bearing repack. The FSM is very helpful here. Ordered a bearing adjustment tool.

This is the part I really like about these vehicles, how the bearings look like new. All that's needed is a freshen up of grease, oil, & seals. I was surprised to find USA made Timken bearings. Is that OEM?View attachment 1495312View attachment 1495313View attachment 1495314View attachment 1495315View attachment 1495316
Its good to find that all in such good shape. OEM Bearings are Koyo, but Timken are a good sub. I'm considering doing what you've done, as I have a line on some locked axles.
 
is this really cheaper/easier than going with eaton e lockers?

or is it just more an excuse to be able to bench rebuild the new axles you're swapping in :D
 
I wanted to go OEM , but had I not found some locally the Eaton would have been a nice option.
 
So, my vehicle came as an unlocked 97 and the donor e-locker axles are from a 96. I noticed this difference on the e-brake bell crank cable. The unlocked came with the loosely wound spring and the locked came with the tightly wound spring. I'm guessing they were cutting cost more as time went on.
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A l little more work today to button it all up on both sides today. Tool and FSM very helpful. Next is bleeding the brakes. I will get to the e-locker wiring later.
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Nice work. I swapped to e-lockers by retrofitting oem into the non-locked housings while the axles were still under the vehicle. Not doing that again. I think you are on the right track.
 
instead of removing brake lines, I'm pretty sure we just removed the hard line brackets and strapped the calipers with them still connected to the frame. Saves the mess and bleeding of brakes later.

Thanks! I'm starting the front axle swap and I see what you are talking about. I've removed the abs wires. My driver side caliper looks like there is no wear to the brake pads and on the passenger side caliper looks like they're almost all the way gone. I wonder if I have a stuck caliper?
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This was a rush job didn't even take tyres off lol. You will love your new axles with lockers. Best upgrade you can do IMO. Did you get factory harness? What a pia to pull out. While in there check for rust in lower panel cavity and drain holes are open. If you have door switches that don't work fix them to. So much plastic to take offbut totally worth the grief.

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I have the harness. Do you have any pics of where you found rust? I've noticed the rims like to rust to the axle. All my door switches work. I plan on ordering new calipers. Need to get my air compressor wired for this project.
 

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