Axle snap ring doesn't fit? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jan 25, 2011
Threads
31
Messages
217
Just replaced my CVs with CVJ axles, D/S went in without issue, snap ring on P/S seems a little too thick to slide in all the way, do they make these in slimmer thicknesses?
IMG_1859.jpeg
IMG_1858.jpeg
IMG_1860.jpeg
 
Maybe something like this would help?


Eeek! Maybe I’m seeing things, but those splines don’t look “great” to me. Were those axles just re-booted?

Are you trying to reuse the old snap ring? I thought that was a no-no…
 
Last edited:
Maybe something like this would help?


Eeek! Maybe I’m seeing things, but those splines don’t look “great” to me. Were those axles just re-booted?
They're from CVJ:


I had previously bought Cardone Axles that the hub flanges wouldn't slide over so I bit the bullet and bought a set of these, they were fine out of the box, camera on my phone just might be a bit of a potato
 
Another thing that might make life easier

 
Another thing that might make life easier

You need one of these ☝🏾 or something similar to pull the axle out.

do they make these in slimmer thicknesses?
Yes, and the snap ring is supposed to be replaced with a new one of proper thickness pretty much every time one is removed, because they never return to their original inner diameter again.

Eeek! Maybe I’m seeing things, but those splines don’t look “great” to me. Were those axles just re-booted?
I agree, and yes, CVJs are just overly and unwarrantedly expensive reboots. Most of them have trashed outboard splines and are no better than what you’d get at a junkyard.
 
Are you trying to reuse the old snap ring? Please D O N T. These stretch when removing and can later fall off if reinstalled- creating much more troubles for ya. Hopefully you also used a new locking tab washer as well.

The snap ring puller tool helps but not necessary- you can make a puller to get it done in a pinch. But you do need an assortment of snap rings so that you can fit the right gap. No option but OEM- and as posted before Cruiser outfitters sells an assorted kit.

But I suggest reading the FSM to measure snapring gap so you ensure correct fit otherwise you cause wear to axle stub, washers and bearings.
 
Another thing that might make life easier

Just gave this method a go with some scrap I had laying about. It was out as far as it was originally, looks like I'm going to have to get the correct thickness snap ring, I can't find my feeler gauge or calipers anywhere to confirm but the old snap ring didn't want to go.
 
the old snap ring didn't want to go.

This is probably a “good thing”, as it lessens the chance of a future “bad transfer case” post, when the used snap ring pops off, while driving down the road. 😁
 
Are you trying to reuse the old snap ring? Please D O N T. These stretch when removing and can later fall off if reinstalled- creating much more troubles for ya. Hopefully you also used a new locking tab washer as well.

The snap ring puller tool helps but not necessary- you can make a puller to get it done in a pinch. But you do need an assortment of snap rings so that you can fit the right gap. No option but OEM- and as posted before Cruiser outfitters sells an assorted kit.

But I suggest reading the FSM to measure snapring gap so you ensure correct fit otherwise you cause wear to axle stub, washers and bearings.

Yup :D

 



PS wheel bearing and knuckle tear down 043.JPG
018.JPG


You can pull by hand, but doesn't settled grease between brass bushing and outer axle of FDS (AKA CV) as well. You can also put a temporary snap ring on, and drive around the block. Then come back, with wheels on the ground. Which helps push FDS axle outward. Then pull by hand and place on the very thickest "new" snap ring. Making sure gap between hub flange and snap ring less than 0,20 MM.
Snap ring gap check 8x1.25mm.JPG

Tool for pulling made (first made) with just lying around the shop
Snap ring to wheel hub flange Gap.JPG


It also best to put a new grease cap on. Cap must be very very tight, to keep water out.
Or you'll likely see brown grease, which indicates water contamination next service.

66640389566__60D08B38-2D89-4B42-B54A-77EA80BCE3BF.JPEG
 
Last edited:
I'm in the middle of the same job and have been thinking about how to pull the axle to fit the snap ring, so this timely! This is a slick trick if the right hardware is laying around. Would a freebie auto parts store rental axle puller do the same?

FYI, on this other thread 2001LC posted the FSM instructions on selecting the right snap ring, in case you haven't found it already. (edit - didn't notice he already posted this info above, my bad)

The mom and pop shop that did the rotors on my LC for the PO definitely appeared to reuse the snap ring, as well as the star lock washers, rusty cone washers, and somehow mashing the cr@p out of axle nuts. Needless to say I wasn't thrilled to see it, but at least I know it will be back together correctly. Just a word of warning for folks, if you have some indy shop (that doesn't specialize in LCs) do rotors or bearings, you might want to pop the dust cap and see if you need to put in a new snap ring given the advice above. x2 with the dust cap as noted above. They reused the dust caps and I had the brown grease like in the picture.
 
I'm in the middle of the same job and have been thinking about how to pull the axle to fit the snap ring, so this timely! This is a slick trick if the right hardware is laying around. Would a freebie auto parts store rental axle puller do the same?

FYI, on this other thread 2001LC posted the FSM instructions on selecting the right snap ring, in case you haven't found it already. (edit - didn't notice he already posted this info above, my bad)

The mom and pop shop that did the rotors on my LC for the PO definitely appeared to reuse the snap ring, as well as the star lock washers, rusty cone washers, and somehow mashing the cr@p out of axle nuts. Needless to say I wasn't thrilled to see it, but at least I know it will be back together correctly. Just a word of warning for folks, if you have some indy shop (that doesn't specialize in LCs) do rotors or bearings, you might want to pop the dust cap and see if you need to put in a new snap ring given the advice above. x2 with the dust cap as noted above. They reused the dust caps and I had the brown grease like in the picture.
The "axle nuts" can get dorked if a shop doesn't have a 54mm socket, and instead uses a cold chisel to spin the nuts.
 
The "axle nuts" can get dorked if a shop doesn't have a 54mm socket, and instead uses a cold chisel to spin the nuts.
That's gotta be it for sure. Total hack job. Looks like they even cut a notch in the outer nut to assist. I'm sure they dialed in the preload perfectly hammering with their chisel. That would explain why my bearings were spinning on the spindle. 😡
 
The "axle nuts" can get dorked if a shop doesn't have a 54mm socket, and instead uses a cold chisel to spin the nuts.
Mine were dorked when I bought it.. and they had been repacked multiple times by the Lexus dealer lol they were in great shape, but I still found it surprising nonetheless.

Also FWIW, my driver side was too tight for the snap rings in the kit from Cruiser Outfitters at first too. I just filed down the old one and drove it down the road a few miles and it settled in and I was able to use one of the new ones.
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom