Axle questions (1 Viewer)

[SSCR]

Hey guys, I'm planning on ordering some Ruff Stuff Ford 9" axles for my FJ40 build. I'm using a stretched aqualu frame with a LC9 Vortec motor mated to a 4L60E trans and a late model Toyota split T case. I'm guessing with the split case I will need a passenger drop for both the front and rear.

I'm going to run 285/70/R17 tires so I didn't think I needed to step up to a Atlas 2, opinions on this? Any problems with a non-centered pumpkin axle, specially at higher speeds?

I'm also trying to get an idea on the axle length that I should use with 4.5" back spaced rims?

The suspension will be linked so I guess a bridge will also need to be fabricated for the rear axles links also.

Any ideas or suggestions?

Thanks

 

[Delancy]

Any suggestions?

Grant Metalangelo artistic freedom and let him order on your behalf.

Why all the trouble for 285/70/17?

Go big, man. Go big.

Edited: knowing Don, he'll opt full width, and that's worthy of, at least, 37s. Running gear can handle +40s, easily.

Why opt this route over the 40 axles you had?

 

[SSCR]

I didn't want to destroy the powder-coat finish on them when I decided to go with a linked suspension. Plus I wanted to go with the modern C knuckles in front. He also explained it would way easier to weld on the Ruff Stuff axles than trying to link the original Toyota stuff.

I ended up selling the axles Georg built for me and now need to get an order in with Ruff Stuff.

This is going to be an overland explorer and not a rock crawler so I would like to maintain the stockish 40 look as much as possible. I really hope to be able to take this thing up to 80 on the highway.

 

[Tigerstripe40]

I'm going to run 285/70/R17 tires so I didn't think I needed to step up to a Atlas 2, opinions on this? Any problems with a non-centered pumpkin axle, specially at higher speeds?

My opinion is that fabricated ford 9" axles are way overkill for your use here. Stock axles would have been just fine.
But, I'd say swap to an AtlasII considering that a split case will be the weak link here.
Might as well just go all the way, also, going the Atlas route would also make the truck easier to sell if you decide to sell it later down the road.

The offset axle won't present any problems going down the highway.

 

[SSCR]

Thanks guys, appreciate the feedback. Main reason I'm going with the fabricated axles was for of ease of welding all the brackets needed for the linked suspension.

I was originally looking at getting a set of custom Dana 44 axles but the price of the ruff stuff 9" axles was actually cheaper.

Beside the Toyota split case or the atlas is there another t case I should consider?

 

[Tigerstripe40]

Beside the Toyota split case or the atlas is there another t case I should consider?

The usual suspects are:
Atlas 2/4
STaK
NP-205
Dana 300
NP-203/205 doubler setup.

 

[Delancy]

I really hope to be able to take this thing up to 80 on the highway.

With the drivetrain and linked suspension, see no reason why that'd not be an expectation.

May consider a 37x12.5x17 KM2. They're a strong 35" on a 17x8 wheel.

Dunno how much room the Wizard needs for links and coil overs, but 60 width looks perfect on 40/55s with <4" lift, in my opinion.

80 width gives a wide track appearance, even with 4.5" BS wheels, especially in the short wheel base.

Full widths would be extreme for less than 40s, if aesthetics were the barometer.....my opinion....and you could probably push 40s with the V8 and 9s, maybe even 80mph, I dunno.

Man, I'd describe what you're gonna do to Don, set limitations if need be, and turn him loose.

 

[SSCR]

Yep, thanks. I'm in line after some other builds and just want to weigh my options and not keep bugging him with questions. I agree on 60 length, specially since I would have to ad 1/ 1.5" spacers anyways with the rims (back spacing) I want to run. I think 33" tires are as big as I'm going to go with though.

Thanks for the leads on the T cases Tigerstripe40, I never even heard of STaK till now.

I really just want to build a bullet proof cruiser, that I can easily get parts for and hand down to my son. Something that I believe a modern day FJ40 would look like and encompass as much modern tech as I can, while still keeping it simple that I can easily work on.

As of now the only Toyota part on this build will be the T case, if you guys feel this will do everything I need it to do with 33" tires, I'm happy with it. Looks to be plenty of rebuild kits for this case for years to come, and from what I hear it's quiet compared to a lot of other T cases. Atlas IIs, I heard have a problem with aeration at high speeds but are fantastic at crawling. Since I will be driving this rig all over the country between highways and logger roads, I kinda need the best of both worlds.

Thanks guys, and Delancy you are right Don is a genius I just like doing the research before it is next on the list.

 

[SSCR]

http://www.stak4x4.com/Transfer_Cases/d300_transfer_case.htm

Anyone know off hand if this would this require an adapter for my 4L60E trans? If so anyone looking to buy a fresh rebuilt split case with twin shifter and Advance Adapters adapter for 4L60?

 

[Tigerstripe40]

The stak and AtlasII are based on the Dana300so they would all use the same adapters (in some cases, you just need a clocking ring).

 

[SSCR]

Thanks bud, I'm really considering dropping the split case but I hate to do it, if it is all I need or even better for what I want to do with the rig than the Atlas of the STaK.

 

[Delancy]

Delancy you are right Don is a genius I just like doing the research before it is next on the list.

I hear you and I'm the same way, sometimes a benefit to the build, others a detraction.

No reason to run spacers.

If you've got a wheel you wanna run, figure out the clearance needed for COs since you're already going to by buying custom shafts, forget about spacers or Toyota axle width dimensions.

For that matter, order the bare housings full width, cut them down later. Can't or wouldn't want to go any wider and extra canvas beats not enough and it's not a big deal to cut the tube.

That's what I did, being 9.5" RS full widths.....but, just in case Don talks me out of 80 width and 37s on the 73.

Hope Don talks you out of 33s.

 

[hman913]

Stak4x4 doesn't exist anymore, and their cases would only be available as used. They were essentially taken over by Trail Worthy Fab, who now makes the Hero Case. If you're only planning on 33s, or 35s at most, a Dana300 would be a great option as it's not overly large and pretty durable.. Stick some 4:1 gears and 32sp rear output and you'll be golden. I think an Atlas would be overkill for something like this.

 

[SSCR]

Fantastic, thanks! And the Dana 300 would give me a centered pumpkin?

 

[Poser]

Fantastic, thanks! And the Dana 300 would give me a centered pumpkin?

Yes it would.

 

[Mace]

The split tcase is very, very strong. Probably stronger than the axle shafts you are putting in the 9" housing.

There is nothing about a offset axle that prevents it from going as fast as you want.

A CV joint in the front axle is a better design than a open knuckle U joint. And, if you are not going to 35 spline shafts, they are actually weaker in a straight line than the cruiser birfs are. Upgraded closed knuckle stuff is cheap, and strong.

Honestly it sounds like you are throwing a ton of money into something for no reason...

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

I like your 9" idea, and, had I not gotten a deal on a hp44 and dana 60 with the right gears, that was the path I was on. The 9" has the advantage of being super-super cheap to build because they're as ubiquitous as a SBC. One thing you might consider, should go centered rear, is looking at NASCAR full-float 9" rear axles. Their advantage is 1) they are usually 1/2 the price of a comparable fab'd housing, 2) they have all the best parts inside, and 3) you can get detroit lockers are part of the deal... seriously, they're ~$1200 to buy. Given you're close enough to NASCAR's stomping grounds (at least a whole lot closer than I), they're a good option.

In 4x4s, there's fact, opinion, and trolls (fact - you have a FJ40, opinion - how they built theirs, trolls - how they want to spend your money to build their vehicle)... be sure you learn to identify which is which before you spend your hard-earned money.

I like the 9" because they are a light assembly, but they are a fabricated assembly which is thinner and less robust than a cast housing with pressed-in tubes. CV joints are fine for what you're doing, but, like anything else, are almost a preference rather than a necessity... not to mention, they're about 5x more expensive to rebuild than a broken u-joint. Since you're already talking wider wheelbase and custom axles - you lost me as to the reason why you'd use spacers.... if you're going to 4 link the suspension, the more axle tube you can get the happier life will be for you....

doublers, with the stock wheelbase, you will be challenged to get enough driveshaft length.... and I'm not sure why you'd need a doubler with this DD-style build. the low 1st gear of the 4L60e with 33" tires and you'll be just peachy in the world... I'd run 4.11 gears as you folks don't have the mountains we climb in the west.

Dana 300s are a whole lot cheaper to buy and build than an Atlas, but the moment you start building a dana 300 - the atlas can be a reasonable priced alternative. With that said, I have a dana 300 in my '40 - and the all-in cost for a 32 spline output, 4:1 gears, rebuild kit, purchase of the case and adapter is $1700. A bare Atlas 2 is $2600 then you need to buy the adapter and shifter. The Atlas is a lot prettier, though, with that cute billet case (okay, perhaps I just moved to troll... sue me)

Offset pumpkin... an advantage of centered differentials is the ability to only need one axle as stock in case of breakage; another advantage is related to length and how that relates to stress... until you're in the 38" tire range... don't worry about it.

 

[SSCR]

Great info thanks guys, this is exactly what I was looking for. SuperBuickGuy is right that the 9" parts are very readily available and cheap to build. Mostly in part of NASCAR and almost every hot rod out there popularity, plus that is what my fabricator wants to use. I think I will stick with the split case, just wanted to check my options and make sure of what I wanted because that would directly affect how I build the rear axle.

I do not intend to run spacers, I was just mentioning it because I was going to have to run them with the stock 40 axles I was going to use. Now I can compensate this with how I get the axles cut, but thanks on all the points made.

I just really want the rig to look similar to this, just stretched 10" inches and be able to cruise me and my family around on camping vacations. Thanks guys- Don

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

ICON is good

they were the impetus for my build... that said, I'm favoring 38" tires - so mine is an ICON turned up to 11

 

[Josie'sLandCruiser]

Hi all,

IMO, going with a bunch of custom stuff over stock Land Cruiser parts makes future maintenance a major PIA.

The front and rear axle from a FJ60/62, along with it's t-case will work well for you. All of these can be had for a few hundred dollars, while custom Ford 9 inch axle assemblies, and an Atlas t-case will cost thousands.

Regards,

Alan
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SSCR wrote:

I really just want to build a bullet proof cruiser, that I can easily get parts for and hand down to my son. Something that I believe a modern day FJ40 would look like and encompass as much modern tech as I can, while still keeping it simple that I can easily work on.